I’m reading all of the posts and can’t figure out why the bushings would stop you from removing the driveshaft. If the driveshaft is rusted to the bearings, the first thing to do is to get the driveshaft to turn.

So my first question to Kevinski is does the driveshaft turn? If it does not, then what penetrant are you using? Kroil is the best followed by PB Blaster.

Here’s a few things you can try:
(1) First try turning the driveshaft with a big pipe wrench (if you don’t plan on using it) or rigging up some handle to use on the u-bolt. Work it back and forth. Additional blows with that BFH will help.
(2) Can you tilt the torque tube up and flood around the shaft? That may direct more penetrant toward the bushings.
(3) Try heating the area area around the bushings then flooding the penetrant. That helps draw the penetrant in. Don’t get it too hot that the penetrant catches on fire.
(4) Patience. Penetrants may work initially or it may take weeks. Keep at it and I’m sure you will be successful.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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