An additional course of action (in addition to your excellent and practical suggestion, WarEagle1): always end a trip driving your truck for at least 15 minutes at 25+ miles an hour (if possible).
That practice/action will remove all foulness (mostly moisture).
(side benefit: you will not need to change your oil/filter more often than the prescribed miles/time)
I have never needed a PVC set up in any of my small 47-55st 216/235/261 trucks (however, I did need one in my 2-ton 1954 COE).
Think your theory is flawed. 6-8 qts of oil will not warm to 180-200* in 15 minutes. More like 90-120 minutes if ever, especially if your running 160* t stat. Very little moisture is moving out of the oil when the oil temp is 160*.
Likely if the outside temperature is 50-80* the stovebolt might never boil off water or even fuel without assistance from PCV. The PCV system performance is still hampered by oil temperature. It’s also the reason most say don’t start your old car in storage unless your really going to run it for more than a hour or two.
Thats the whole issue here and why the road draft were so poor at venting the crankcase........it need temperature and speed ........those two are rare so performance is poor because of poor design.
Data points from other sources on oil temperature:
1.When my coolant temp hits 190F, my oil is usually right around 130F.
2.My brothers Corvette has an oil temperature gauge on the DIC. There is no relationship between oil temperature and coolant temperature in his car. The biggest factor on oil temperature is engine speed, again, at least in his car. Loping around in traffic, the oil doesn't really go over 130-140*F (similar to jigen's experience). But drive a steady speed down the road at 3,000 rpm, the oil temperature will begin to climb, and can reach 180*F or more. Slow the engine speed down, and the oil temperature will fall back down.
