Got the engine mocked up in the frame. I haven't determined which motor mounts to use yet so I guesstimated how the engine would sit with the OEM clam shell brackets by using a couple pieces of wood. I'm hopeing my wood guesstimate is wrong as the engine is sitting to low. I removed the #5 plug to gain some clearance. Ain't no way to reinstall it as is....
PicPicHeres a shot of #7 plug peaking around the backside of the steering box.
PicAll the pics I pull up on the SBC's in Stovebolts show them sitting higher. So I'm researching motor mount options.
Moving on, it was good to see that the motor mount frame perches and rear tranny mount don't need to be moved and will work where they are. With the tranny resting on the mount where it will bolt up (need new rubber mount) the triangle bolt boss for the motor mount bracket is centered directly over the frame mounted clam shell rubber mounts. In this position there is just enough room for me to fit my fingers between the HEI dist and the firewall.
PicTheres plenty of clearance between the long shaft water pump and the radiator and if I get the engine up a little higher I believe it'll run a clutch fan.
PicInorder to get clearance for the fuel pump the right side shock had to go. The top shock mount was a bolt welded to the upper frame lip. It'll either get moved to the outside of the frame rail -or- totally replaced by a 50's era tube shock setup.
PicBased on the gap between the bellhousing and firewall thats already cut, the whole assembly can be lifted a couple more inches.
PicPicIt was level.
PicSince the powerplant sits in basically the same position the driveshaft should work as is. When I pulled it I thought the U joints felt rough so I'm going to replace them both. Wouldn't you know it that they'd be odd ball too.... Unless Chevy used U joints with differing axis and cap size measurements, they look like a Ford 1310. I thought my quick once over of the rearend indicated it was an 8.5 10 bolt. I'm not so sure now. Will know more on that later.
PicPicDave
