Cowboy;
This is a cut and paste from a previous post/message. I picked up these tips from fellow bolters. Bartamos was the most helpful in diagnosing the fuel gauge problems on my 58 Burb. Below describes what you need to set up a bench testing station.
If you already have all the equipment, disregard the list below. I never assume that anyone has a full garage full of tools and the knowledge to use them all.
1. Buy a multi-meter. Harbor freight sells one that is acceptable for about $5 on sale every other week. Look at videos on YouTube on how to use. I usually only use two functions. Voltage to check for volts and continuity to check continuity on wires. Once in a while you will use Ohms to check
resistance on items like sending units (fuel and temp).
2. Go to Radio Shack and buy a set of replacement leads/probes for the multi-meter. That is the one shortcoming of the HF multi-meter. The wires busted off the connectors that go into the multi-meter after about a week. Radio Shack sells a pretty stout pair for about $7-8. It is worth the investment.
3. While at radio shack, pick up a soldering iron. I got a table top wand-style for about $25. It's great for doing small automotive wiring. Look on YouTube for how to videos on soldering if you haven't done any before. It's not that hard.
4. You are still in radio shack. Pick up a set of alligator clipped lead wires. I got a set of 6-8 of different colors for a few bucks. They come with alligator clips on both ends with plastic covers over the clips. They are very handy when trying to diagnose wiring. You can clamp the clip on a wire and attach the other end to one of the probes on the multi-meter. Very handy when trying to test continuity on long wires, or one end is under the hood and the other is under the dash.
5. Take two of the alligator clip extensions and cut them in half. Wire a 4-5 foot piece of wire between the ends on one of the leads. That gives you a 5-6 foot long lead wire you can use as described above. Take the second set of ends and solder an automotive fuse holder into it. That allows you to have a fused hot wire lead that is helpful for testing electrical components.
6. Lastly buy an automotive battery charger. I got one at either Sears for HF. It is adjustable for 6 or 12 volts and different amp levels. I use this to bench test electrical items (turn signal switch, fuel sender and guage etc.) Hook your fused hot wire lead to the positive clamp on the charger and then to the item you are testing. Hook the other lead wire you made to the negative clamp on the charger and then to the negative post on the item you are testing. I have made lots of money with this set up. You get guaranteed voltage from the charger and you have an inline fuse (I use a 5 amp fuse for basic testing) and you get guaranteed ground back through the charger to the house current. Bartamos turned me onto this and it's a great setup.
I'm working from memory (about 2.5 years ago now) of my fuel gauge issues. I believe the proper set up is to hook the fused hot wire from the charger to the hot post on the gauge. Run a lead wire from the sender post on the gauge to the hot wire bolt/nut on the sender. Attach a lead wire from one of the mounting screw holes on the sender to the negative clamp on the battery charger. As you move the float on the sender up and down the gauge should move as well. With the sender on the bench you can also use the multi meter to check the resistance. To make things easier I use the alligator clamps on the lead wires to make the connections. Clamp one end to the appropriate spot on the sending unit and the other end to the correct lead on the multimeter. This way you aren't trying to hold multimeter leads in each hand while you move the float with your elbow.
Last edited by Larry_58_Burb; 09/08/2016 12:51 PM.
