"I love it when a plan comes together!"
I learned that technique as a high school student, while attending the GM training center in Memphis with some of Dad's mechanics during a summer break. That was in 1962. I taught charging systems to high school and state trade school students for 30-something years. Now some of them are running their own shops. Just like an old retired teacher- - - -we walk off and leave our mouth running sometimes!
Now, go show the "professional" shop the right way to do it! LOL!
BTW, the current and voltage control points are also adjustable, if you choose to do so. The voltage control points can be adjusted with the 1 ohm resistor still in series with the battery and the engine running about 1500 RPM. Set the max voltage to about 14.5V with the resistor in place. The resistor simulates a fully charged battery, something we usually did with a 1/4 ohm resistor in series with the BAT wire. The current regulator (behind the ARM terminal on the regulator) needs to adjust to about 35 amps. Do this by putting all the load on the system you can- - -high beam headlights, high speed heater fan, brake lights and any other stressors you can think of. Since the two regulators are wired in series, it's an either/or situation, if the current regulator is working, the voltage regulator won't be, and vice versa. Have fun!
Jerry
