Hot rodding today is much easier, yet much more difficult than in the 1950's and 1960's; both because of the internet.
It is now much easier to ask questions rather than measure; and yet sometimes the answers we get are not understood because we either asked the wrong question, or didn't supply sufficient information when the question(s) was/were asked.
Jerry's comments about steering/stopping are VERY important! But with the internet, information about engine/transmission weights, dimensions, mountings are readily available. Find this information about the engine in question, do your measurements on your vehicle; and then spend some time with the math.
A few things to think about:
Weight - what will the new weight do to spring rates, weight distribution, brake load, etc.
Power - will the additional load on u-joints, rear gears, etc. require upgrades. How about traction with stock wheels/tires.
As far as asking questions about fit, I will relate a personal story, before the internet. Some 35 years ago, I decided to build a 1974 Pontiac GTO 350. I spent a couple of years in research, and pretty well had my build laid out, but I wanted to upgrade the exhaust. I personally detest headers on the street! The in-cabin noise is bad enough, but changing header gaskets with every moon change gets old in a hurry! Pontiac had offered some high performance exhaust manifolds on one of the factory ram air engines in a larger chassis. I knew it was going to be tight; but I also knew a couple of guys that were running the same chassis with performance builds, and I called (before the internet) each of them. Both had the performance manifolds on their cars. So I started looking for a set.
After building the engine, put the engine in the car. Simply could NOT line up the drivers side exhaust manifold! Tried everything I could think of. Pulled the engine, and installed the manifolds then reinstalled the engine. No way could I line up the mounts.
Finally, in desperation, called one of my friends, and we talked a couple of hours going over everthing. Finally it came to light that he had manual steering, mine was power. Got out the interchange manuals, and found a manual steering box. Sure enough, the power box was a quarter inch wider than the manual box. Ah success. Not so fast grasshopper!!! The power box used a different size pitman arm; and while the manual box was relatively easy from a different vehicle (Hollanders Interchange Manuals are a great aid), the pitman arm was unique, and more difficult to find than a needle in a Kansas hayfield!!! After several disappointments (wrong parts shipped, and returned) and a year and a half, I found one, for $200. plus freight (this was about 15 years ago). What can you do, I bought it. Finally, the problem was solved.
So the initial problem was mine, in NOT supplying sufficient information when I asked the question (will it fit), and not understanding the answer, when the answer (yes, it will fit) was what I wanted to hear.
So if someone tells you it cannot be done, listen, but do your own measurements; and if someone tells you it CAN be done, listen, but take your own measurements. The internet, mathematics, and physics are all your friends - use them.
My final build more than doubled the original engine's horsepower (same engine with some severe mods) and took over 800 pounds off of the cars original weight. So I KNOW about spring rates, shock loads, etc. from experience. I also improved the factory weight distribution from roughly 60/40 to 53/47. Really a nice driving "street sleeper".
Jon.
