gosh I WANT a cad system for my computer
I knew i was missing out on some cool things.
all my truck wiring diagrams are hand drawn.
maybe it's the cool colors i like. thanks for the link to cad.
great work chris
you have a very good handle on all things electrical. a lot of folks buy harness' but until you design, make and install/ test a complete system shows great pride and understanding.
also even thought it looks like seperate fuse boxes there is only one. I had a diagram that had all the wiring for the engine, lights and options but it was getting to crowded and needed to be split up.
> this was confusing to me cause of the different amp fuses shown were not the same, so it looked like three blocks.
should i add two blocks and if so, do i run two seperate 8ga wires from the starter solenoid batt post to the blocks?
> I also have two power dist term blocks, one forward @drivers inner fender feeds from the alternator via a short 8 ga. fuse link, (then an 8 ga. wire back to the starter crossing under the rad support in split housing~ everything is in split housing and grommets so hopefully NO elect shorts :rolleyes:
i believe ALL fuse links (i made all mine) should be about 6-7 inches long plus what ever wire and solderless (soldered & heat shrunk) ends, this block also feeds the relay bank, so i.e. all those items listed below connects via fuse links. the fuse links protect each of those circuits separately, then to the second term block one 10 ga. on the firewall outside the cab. @ that one feeds the DA plug sensing wire so the alt gets a different voltage reading away from close proximity to the alt like your PO had .... Hummmmm. the firewall also feeds to my cab ign. switch and fuse panel. from there all things acc. wise feed off the fuse panel. I fed all acc. forward from the forward block and all things @ the main fuse panel and truck rear off the firewall block. kinda keeps things straight. much like what i see on your diagram. everything in split housing. cloth is fine for show. my.02
On my system, i have a bank of relays fed by fusible links.
two because of start~up power && I want power to that and back-up ALL the time, for my radiator cooling fan, one ea. ~ Hi & Low beam, fog lamps and horn (dual fiamm type) and one other but i can't remember right now.
relays are cheap, about 5-6 bucks ea. all labeled.
DON'T forget to ground the cab to frame as you have mentioned also the radiator support to frame and frame to cab and frame to bed. in my case frame to inner fenders. ALL very important .
i recently got my truck back from the painter so i'm now slowly installing all this (i have also moved in the last several months). I'm sure some items might change when i get the front clip bolted back on. I'm about to drop the engine back in and then the front end stuff. then wire some more.
maxi fuses have the advantage of replacement made easier by design. pop out - pop in. fusible links are tougher to replace because they may (in my case) be integrated into the wire system. so yes i will carry spares and yes they take up more room in the traveling tool box and IF one fries ms caroline will have a tougher time correcting it. but then again... something else is seriously wrong. I'll get THAT cel phone call. but hopefully NOT
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I ALWAYS CARRY A HALON EXTINGISHER
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one source that 6066 uses is MAD ELECTRIC ~~ Mark likes fusible links and his business is wiring::
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml Alan Horath is one of the electrical ?? here and he likes his also.
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18ga. Fusible Link protects 14ga. or heavier wired systems
16ga. Fusible Link protects 12ga. or heavier wired systems
14ga. Fusible Link protects 10ga. or heavier wired systems
12ga. Fusible Link protects 8ga. or heavier wired systems
Notice in the table above that there is always a four number size difference between the Fusible Link wire gauge size, and the size of wire going out to the rest of the circuit. (And with wire gauge sizes, the larger number is for a smaller diameter–as with shotgun barrels, the 20 gauge bore diameter is smaller than the 12 gauge bore diameter.)
The four number differences in gauge size will create the correctly calibrated bottleneck for the Fusible Link to function. Normal amounts of current flow through the Fusible Link do not generate enough heat to warm it up, and normal amount of current flow does not result with significant voltage drop. But in the event of a “full-overload” (“short-to-ground”) problem, excessive current flow through the Fusible Link (bottle-neck effect) will overheat the Fusible Link and burn it out. The protected circuit will be automatically disconnected from power.
Installation and function of a Fusible Link is similar to the “cartridge type,” in-line fuse. But the Fusible Link does not deteriorate or have meltdown problems with constant use in heavy-duty systems, as the cartridge type fuse is famous for. (Chevy began installing Fusible Link wires in the main-power circuits with ’66 models, and of those old cars that are still in use, most of the original Fusible Link wires are still in place. If a Fusible Link burned out then it saved the car!)
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http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/..._resourcecenter_encyclopedia_lights2.asp Circuit breakers ::
Circuit breakers are sealed assemblies that perform the same job as the fuse, but in case of an overload, will cut current for an instant. Unlike a fuse, things will return to normal. They rarely go bad but must be replaced with an identical unit should one blow. As with fuses, if a circuit breaker continues to fail, the source of the trouble should be found and corrected.
The main advantage of a circuit breaker over a fuse is what happens when the circuit breaker does its job. When a fuse blows, it becomes trash, while the circuit breaker can cool and reset (to be used over and over again). For this reason, circuit breakers tend to be used to protect high load circuits, on which an occasional overload is expected. Accessories such as power windows or seats which use powerful motors (which might occasionally draw too high an amperage if they encounter mechanical resistance) are good candidates for circuit breaker protection.
You never know exactly where to look for a circuit breaker, but many times, they are located near the fuse box or near the component they protect. On some cars, the circuit breaker that protects the headlights is an integral part of the headlight switch, which must be replaced in its entirety.
Circuit breakers are designed to offer a variety of performance characteristics including three types of reset.
Always follow the ?? OEM's our truck's are not so clear???? recommendations when replacing circuit breakers. Replace only with the same type breaker in aftermarket applications. hard to do in our situation.
Type I -- Automatic reset. Circuit breaker automatically resets after opening, if the fault still exists, the breaker will continue to cycle between ON and OFF positions until the overload is corrected. These devices are sometimes called "cycling breakers."
Type II -- Modified reset. The circuit breaker will remain tripped (in the OFF position) as long as there's power to the circuit due to an internal resistor. Type II breakers can be reset by turning off the circuit, or by turning off the ignition switch. These devices are sometimes called "non-cycling breakers."
Type III -- -Manual reset. The circuit breaker will remain tripped (in the OFF position) until an indicator button or lever is manually reset.
Circuit breakers come in a variety of styles and sizes, and can be mounted almost anywhere. They may be mounted in the line they protect, or plugged into the circuit at the fuse box.
Fusible links and maxi fuses
Fusible links are a piece of wire about 6" long which is spliced into another wire, usually a gauge or two smaller than the wire it protects. Fusible links can be found almost anywhere. Many times they are identified by a colored flag on the link, or by a loop to make it stand out from other wires, and are usually the same color as the protected circuit. Some fusible links may burn in half with no change in appearance, but most are covered with a special insulation that will bubble and char when the fusible link burns.
Fusible links should always be replaced with an original-equipment type.
Most fusible links show a melted, charred insulation when they burn out.
On most modern cars the fusible link has been replaced by the maxi fuse. The maxi fuse is a much larger version of the common standard size fuse (designed to carry the large loads of fusible links) and which have the advantage of being replaced much more easily than the old style fusible link.
Clear as mud but FUN to do
