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Then how does fluid run back without pulling the piston with it? The only way it can run back without pulling the piston is if air is entering the caliper past the seal, if this is the case, then the caliper is bad.

Measure the master cylinder fluid level from the garage floor, then measure up to the caliper at the base of the bleeder screw to see just how much difference in hight there is.

In my opinion the last thing you need to worry about is the condenser in your points ignition system. But if you buy any condenser other than these, you may have plenty to worry about as those are either made in China or India (if you have an English Ford). And those are very prone to erratic performance and failure...some are not working the moment you take them out of the box I've been told. Others last only a while and they are likely to cause your points to burn and fail. I don't want anyone stranded because of a bad condenser.

This was a project unique to The Stovebolt Site and this is the only place they're sold. All profits from this are used to fund other Stovebolt projects.

The price of these is $16 each delivered in the USA. They have been designed to provide between 200,000 and 300,000 operating hours, so you should never have to replace it. With each you'll get a new stainless steel phillips head screw and a new stainless steel internal star lock washer. These are designed to fit in the typical Stovebolt or other inline 6 distributor. If you want to use one in a V8 application, a tractor, crop duster, etc please measure the wire from the condenser you have and let me know. It will take an additional day or two but I can adapt one for you.

If questions or if you wish to purchase, please send a PM.

Buckeye - I sent you a PM about this yesterday. Check your PM's please.

Your "ask" above needs to be in it's own ad post as you're reply post here is considered "hi-jacking" fellow 'Bolter "fonz8261" ad.

Please be respectful and post your own ad or contact 'Bolter "Mother.Trucker" privately.

Regards,

Dan (Swap Meet Moderator)

PS - I will remove this reply and yours above later after you've had a chance to read this.

How much I need one?

Don or anyone else in the MBA - Did you go check out "Rustoberfest"?

Off to the junkyard to find the car that has one,I remember seeing one when I started thinking about getting the wipers working. I was hoping there was a vendor at Hershey that delt with fuel pumps but did not see one but there was one that had wiper motors.

I don't know the amount of travel required to release but it is not a small amount when measured at the outer end of the clutch arm. If you only have a small amount of travel something has changed in the stack up of parts between the clutch pedal and the clutch arm. The good news is that is all external to the bell housing so you shouldn't need to dig too deep to find the solution.

I agree with both Kevin’s. Post a few pictures of your damaged roof. It may be easier to straighten than replace.

I think I found that Airbnb cabin, it’s down the gravel road that runs beside your property.
As for the banjo music, if I hear that, I’ll probably go over and join them. Remember, my family is from the Ozark mountains of Missouri, so I should fit right in.

Don

With a 3/4 inch CP wrench, you ought to be able to dang near twist the bolts/studs. I use a 1/2" Ingersoll rated at 600 ft/lbs, but it won't give full torque until I remove the restrictive quick connect and attach the 3/8 hose directly to the wrench. Give that a try next time you really need the impact and torque. Torque spec for my Budd lugs/bolts is 500 ft/lb

THANK YOU Phak 1 and Gdads51. Much appreciated! I will re-post in Trucks for Sale as you said.

If your clutch worked previously and you installed the same parts, it should work. That points me to adjustment or installation of the linkage. I've got nothing else to offer. Sorry.

Cletus, shoot a PM to Otto Skorzeny on here. I just sent him a full set of 216 rockers and shafts and he should have what you need. Tell him I sent you to him.

Basically to install a helicoil, the drill size is the same as the major diameter of the size you're installing. So you're not really taking out that much metal. I have just run the helicoil tap through a part with fully stripped threads without drilling. The set I have is 10-24 and needs a 13/64 drill. Drill size for a 10-32 helicoil would be the same. It looks like you can get a 10-32 helicoil type thread repair kit for under $30 on Amazon. Actual Helicoil brand is crazy expensive now.

Post a picture of your damaged roof. That will give us an idea what you're up against as far as pushing the dents out. If the perimeter is still in good shape, the only issues would be where there is a double wall. I had some pretty serious oil canning on my roof and managed to get them out by propping a 2x4 underneath against the floor and the roof with plywood to spread out the point contact. See the attached pic. I was also able to pull out a fairly deep dent out above the rear window in the double wall area using weld studs and a little filler. See second picture.

As far as replacing the entire roof, you either cut the windshield pillars and the B-pillar and try to get the windshield opening correct as well as the door openings, or try and butt weld the sheet metal without cutting the pillars. Both approaches have their advantages and drawbacks. I have not attempted to replace a roof.

John -- That would be *most* excellent if you were to make your way hither! Will keep you apprised.

Don -- There wasn't anything to make up my mind about -- what is, is. I can send you a link to the AirBNB listing when you are ready. It's 2 miles from HQ on a dirt county road that sometimes requires 4WD But the folks who live directly across the road from it are friends of ours, so you don't have to worry bout hearing banjo music in the middle of the night ... if you know what I mean ... Folks around here are really cool and nice. So You don't really want to do the hotel thing -- ask Joe Rago

I was thinking of changing my roof manny years ago as I found a cab that had the corner windows but decided not to mess with what I had .The cab has joints as you are most likely aware of on the side of the windshield and they used lead to body fill .at the back there are bolts but also welds .It may be worth it but I have seen some good work at taking out dents also .My roof had a few dents just above the passenger side of the window and I had good results in using a slapper to coax it mostly out .

This is all good stuff! Maybe someone can help me convince Peggy that the Stovebolt Mobile Command Center (e.g., the '01 AmTran former school bus) needs to do more than occasionally shift from one side of the shed to the other ...

My dad told me decades ago that he fixed them by putting them in 3rd gear then getting out and rocking them back and forth.

TO bearing is the same one that came out. All parts are being reused. Only change is the resurfacing of the FW and the wear indicator ring is still there and it is about .015 deep. Thanks.

Cletus - The original part number is GM# 3835776, and they are 10-7/16" long. There are a few "used" 216 push rods in various ads on evilbay (both individually and as sets of 12), but honestly I'd vote for spending equal or lesser money for some new replacements from either of these vendors:

The Filling Station AF-449 @ $7.70 each plus shipping

OR

Chev's of the 40's PN 3835776 @ $7.75 each plus shipping.

Some other vendors offer them new as well, but at substantially higher prices, like $15-$20 each. Ouch!

There is probably a fellow 'Bolter that has some stashed away, but if no one offers them up, you have these options.

Best of luck on your hunt!

Everything you stated is correct. All parts were as they were prior to the resurfacing. The transmission was not left hanging on the front shaft as I was using a floor jack and fixture. The disc slides easily on the transmission shaft when the transmission is removed. I tried a second disc and the truck acted the same way. By "won't release" I mean with everything installed and the engine running, trying to go to low or reverse results in a grinding of gears. Shutting it down and shifting into low or reverse then touching the starter and the truck tries to move with the clutch depressed. Only if I shift to neutral will it run and not try to move. It has a B&B PP made in Korea. When PP fails, what happens? This release issue or slippage? Could the movement diminish? I can't find any info on how much actual movement it takes to cause the clutch to release, I have some movement but it is small and you cannot move the disc between the two plates with the clutch pedal blocked down. I could try a new PP but I will have to have another B&B I think due to the stack up height being much less with the diaphragm type PP. It also has a tall style release bearing. Any idea where I might find a B&B PP? 10" Clutch. Thank you!!

Have you checked out Deve's Technical Network? There is an article about a High Energy Ignition on your stock dizzy. LINK

Thanks Dan - good eye! I saw the listing but skipped over it when i saw exhaust valve - but you are correct that is the right Part number in the picture

I need at least 4 push rods -thanks

Bucker your next post should come through without needing moderation. Do that and you'll see your status under your member name change to 'Bolter. Then you're free to PM Jerry and anyone else you care to.