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I finished the rear end for the suburban, all seemed tight, quiet with no slack and nothing looked worn. I did change the axel bearings and seals anyway while I was there. New calipers, emergency brake pads, rotors, dust covers and hoses. Will be putting it on the frame next.

Subject truck : ‘54 (series 1) 3100
Recently my drivers side window dropped down abruptly and it ain’t coming back up. The window components are original and heavily worn , so replacement seems in order rather than repair. I’ve read that some repros need tooling and adjustment to work properly , and I wish to avoid that. What is the best source for a window regulator for my truck?
CK

Hy Guys, One important thing that seems to have been forgotten since most non front wheel drive cars went to tapered roller bearings, is that ball type front wheel bearings are adjusted with a torque wrench, not by a clearance. Ball type front wheel bearings up to two ton trucks are adjusted to 33 foot pounds, 2 1/2 ton trucks are adjusted to 55 foot pounds, back off the torque setting just enough to get the cotter pin in the hole. Incidentally all front wheel drive vehicles I am aware of ride on ball bearing front wheel bearings, so why the rush to convert from ball to tapered roller bearings?

Duration at .050" is the amount of rotation degrees the valve is open starting at .050" after opening to .050" before closing. It's very hard to see on a dial indicator when the valve starts to open from zero lift, it could be 15 degrees or more of rotation before the valve is at .050" open, same with closing. So as an industry standard, the cams are advertised with duration @ .050", it's easy to see on an indicator. The first and last .050" is very hard to measure accurately, it usually takes a dial indicator that reads in 10,000's to get a somewhat accurate reading.

Valve lift is just that, the amount of lift the valve head moves off the seat.

Camshaft lift is how much total lift the lobe has from its base circle.

Rocker arm ratio describes how much more lift the valve has over the camshaft. A typical V8 usually has a 1.5 ratio where the valve moves 1.5 times as much as the lifter does. Race engines increase the ratio up to 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 etc.... you gain lift as the ratio increases. It comes at a cost though, you increase pressure on camshaft, pushrods, and rocker arms as the ratio increases. With the older engines like the 235 that didn't get a lot aftermarket parts, you are stuck with factory spec parts, where as a small block Chevy has everything you can imagine from the aftermarket suppliers. Also, the camshaft bore in the block dictates how much lift a camshaft can have. It must fit in the hole. Higher ratio rocker arms gives more lift over the camshaft phisical limits.

Centerline of a cam lobe is the point dead center of the total duration of the lobe.

Centerline of the camshaft is the centerline between peak opening of intake and exhaust lobes. Two per cylinder, each cylinder being the same. https://claysmithcams.com/blog/defining-lobe-center-/

All these number describe the timing of the valves to the location of the pistons. More lift equals more time for air to enter and exit the cylinder, longer duration means the valves are held open longer for more time to fill and empty the cylinders. Lift and duration do the same thing. The amount of air flow a head can supply is directly related to camshaft choice. If the cylinder does not flow air at high valve lift, there no need for a high rocker ratio. A 235 head does not flow a lot of air, thus the very mild camshafts.

Just to be clear I can run the Chevy small blocks springs and retainers on both intake and exhaust? If I run the stainless SBC exhaust valves I need the boot or umbrella style oil defector on the exhaust valve and can still use the o-ring style on the intake valves?

Shady

Thanks Guys

Shady

Just as a practical matter, small block V8 valve springs, retainers, and split keepers are rated for much higher RPM than an unmodified stovebolt six can ever run. 350 Chevy V8 exhaust valves are an exact dimensional clone of the stovebolt valve. I've run them at 7K+ RPM for thousands of laps on dirt tracks. Compare prices- - - - -even stainless aftermarket valves and the associated hardware are dirt cheap. I've used them by the dozen on plenty of stovebolt heads with no failures whatsoever.

www.ebay.com/itm/202799964937?

www.ebay.com/itm/800856779636?

You'll have a few leftover parts- - - - -so what? Give 'em away! (Or stash them for the next engine build)
Jerry

Chevy has used 11/32 valve stems for at least 80 years and they use the same grooves so the keepers will work. Rock Auto has the keepers for about $1 each. Chev has used springs that were a little over 2" for the same time frame. The inline springs are just a little bigger in diameter than the V8. So just to be safe I would match the retainer with the springs. I'm not sure that it would make any difference, but it wouldn't hurt to match them. The retainers really don't wear out. Used ones will work just fine.

Nothing like being a bit silly

I figured that's where you were going with the chicken knob.

Alvin was the first contact I had on Stovebolt and have had a great time with with him Stovebolt family is a great family

If Sweet can't help closer to Spotsyltucky... I had *exceptional* work done by Mattingly's Machine Shop in Compton (Leonardtown) MD on my 261's crankshaft. Not sure if they work on heads, but it'll be worth asking.

Since I moved to Alabama 2 years ago, I've found an exceptional machine shop here for doing heads (I've had three done so far -- all exceptional work) so if you want to ship this far, look up Lincoln County Auto Parts in Fayetteville, TN. Alan does great work.

Chevrolet(maybe GMC) 216 overhead oil fitting . If you have a 216, you know what this is.
I just happened across numerous of these.
35.00 eaplus minimal postage from Calif.

You're still in charge...

Right on the money, Carl- - - - -if a pushrod isn't spinning as the engine runs, it should definitely be checked to see if it's bent. An engine doesn't have to be running to check for lifter rotation. Simply spinning the crankshaft with the starter with the spark plugs removed will generate enough spin on the lifters to see them, and the pushrods turn. I check for bent pushrods by rolling them on a piece plate glass, cut to be a little shorter than the overall length to let the bulged ends hang off the edges.
Jerry

Use Chevy small block V8 exhaust valves, springs, retainers, and split keepers if you choose. Are they technically right?- - - - -No. Will the engine care? Also no. Way too many people bow down and worship 75 year old factory parts manual numbers like Moses brought them from Mt. Sinai, chiseled on stone tablets by the hand of the Almighty!
Jerry

Ready, Set, Go...

Sorry to hear you're having to part with your truck Kurt. I hope there's a fellow 'Bolter that's in need of a project that can give your truck a new home.

Best of luck with your sale!

kurbside bolter - Glad to hear the information was helpful and welcome to the 'Bolt!

Since this is your first post, I'm curious to know what truck you have??? Perhaps you can go introduce yourself and your truck in the Welcome Centre so we can officially welcome you to the community.

The part according to Chevy Master Part Books is listed as GM# 3835392 - Cap - rotator assy. valve spring.

Used on all 1947-62 6 cylinders for both intake and exhaust, except for Commercial 1-1/2 ton and up truck 6 cylinders that used different "rotator assemblies" on the exhaust valve of the heavy duty 6 cylinders. They do not interchange with the V8 or later 6 cylinders.

Very limited availability from a quick web search tonight. I found 12 NOS pieces available on evilbay, but the seller wants $19 each for them - OUCH!

I did find that EGGE Machine Company looks to offer a Valve retainer 3835392 listed at $5.89 each, but unknown if in stock or not.

Hope this answers your questions.

Great to hear! Congrats ad thanks for coming back and updating. I'll leave it up for tonight so folks can celebrate with you, then send it on it's way tomorrow.

Let’s clear up the confusion, I am talking about retainer or cap, that holds the the 2 keys which lock the valve spring in place with the valve. It’s about 1.25” and round.
Shady

If you wind up buying a valve spring compressor tool, be sure you're able to return it. I got one from Amazon and it didn't work at all. It was just not set up for the head. It was a C-type with toggle leverage, but it couldn't span far enough to be able to even start moving the lever. It got returned in short order.
The rental approach is the way to go. Get the biggest and baddest one that they have. You'll have to put a deposit down, but that's 100% refundable when you return it within the prescribed time. O'Reilly is 48 hours IIRC.

52Carl,
Thank you on the information regarding the push rods.
Chris

The photo posted shows an area circled in black. Is it the spring or the metal slide or the entire latch assembly being searched for?