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#998060 01/09/2014 2:40 PM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,181
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,181
I learned something new today. On Tony's 4-5-6-Chevy site, he used a clamp called a "Wittek" Clamp on the radiator hose setup he built. I've wonder what those were called, I see them on many cars and trucks and never gave a though as to whether there are 'more' correct for the early model years.

Was there a reason that why people switch to the more current band clamp style? I did a bit of searching and the tower clamps as they are call, need adjusting every once and a while.

Are those period correct for the 1960 model year?



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Modelman #998219 01/10/2014 2:28 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
This help?

http://shop.docrebuild.com/1953-1982genuinewittekgn38seriestowerclamp.aspx

Jake, I've had trouble even with the current band style. As mentioned earlier in a post here the "band" type most of us use today do not contract or swell at the same rate as the hose or the goose neck which is what gives me the "cold water leak" on top of my V8 manifold.
Pehaps GM was onto something when they used the "wire" clamp that most of us hate unless you have that neat little clamp pliers!

Back on topic here....
I've seen the Wittk Clamps many times but after some google searches it seems they were prone to leak unless they were snugged up regularly??? Never used them a long time on any vehicle I've had but seems they were used several years. The Chicago plant, according to my search, went out of business decades ago but some are being "stamp dated" but they are really not old.

Thank for making me do some research. I've learned something new today smile

...and yes, I still buy from Madeinusa!!!


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Modelman #998284 01/10/2014 11:53 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
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Shop Shark
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Two things we do to help the misgivings of the Wittek tower clamps...one is apply a modest cost of black adhesive sealant on the ends of the hose, to promote adhesion & the integrity of the seal and secondly, make sure the inside diameter of the hose and the outside diameter of the male end the hose is connected to, are the same. As a safe-second, we use thermoplastic clamp, in conjunction with the Wittek tower clamps, to ensure a good seal, with the factory-correct appearance. A great source is the Gates Powergrip, thermoplastic clamps. If form & function are important, the thermoplastic clamps, provide the integrity of the seal and is obscure enough to maintain the form & satisfy function, as well.

Modelman #998374 01/10/2014 8:04 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Thanks Tony. Learned something new today.
Now I know how to stop those cold water leaks at the intake manifold goose neck!!
Checked out a Gates site but couldn't find the cost....and didn't want to give them my life history to find out. I'll visit a couple of my favorite auto parts store when I get a chance.

Thanks again for your contributions Tony.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Modelman #998691 01/12/2014 4:24 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
Not sure if the "fast food" auto parts suppliers, carry the thermoplastic hose clamps, but they are available from Summit, JEGs & Speedway, I believe.


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