The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Charging problem

Did another long freeway drive on my daily late 235 a couple of days ago.

When I arrived at my destination I noticed the generator made grinding noises and was very hot.
The battery was still charging at this point.

On my trip back the gerenator must have died, as the battery stopped charging.

The next day I replaced the old burned out generator and installed a spare remanufactured generator.

The battery still wouldn't charge, so I replaced the regulator as well with a new one, which was polarized briefly as per instructions.

Still no charging..... :confused:

When I power the generator, it spins, so it looks like it's working.
When I take a dc voltage reading of the battery, it just doesn't charge with increased rpm...

I have the manual, but can't seem to find the problem.
Are there any simple test with a meter, I can do to trace the problem...?

Disconnect the field wire at the regulator & ground it. Start it up. It should charge way over. If it does the gen is O.K. & something is wrong with the regulator or wireing. Make shure you have the correct wires on the gen. The small wire goes to the F term & the large wire to the A. term.

I have a double contact voltage regulator...so I cannot ground the field terminal, without burning up the regulator, according to warnings in the manual.

On the road again,

Do you have something other than a stock generator and conventional Delco regulator. What manual are you reading that has this warning in it. Unless you have a third brush generator, your regulator should be a typical style with cut-out relay and current and voltage regulators (relays).

Stuart

Both are stock models with stock connections.
The Truck 1960 shop manual shows the difference of a single and double contact voltage regulator with pictures on page 9-4.

The manual in big capital letters warns repeatedly NEVER to ground the field terminal of the double contact regulator, or it will fry.
Grounding the field terminal of a single contact type would be OK.

I also was not aware there are two types.

On the road again,

I'm learning this stuff too. I don't know what a double contact regulator is, but wonder if your 1960 manual is pertinent to your '52 pickup.

When folks say to put the generator into full field output by grounding the field wire, they mean to pull it off the regulator and ground the wire itself . You will be removing it and not involving the regulator in the process.

This field wire from the regulator to the generator must be intact. This wire varies the ground to the field which varies voltage output.

A generator that makes noise and is hot is mechanically defunct. Worn bushings can allow the armature to drop, and rub and grind on the pole shoes.

I checked old posts, as I thought this road had been traveled before, but couldn't find anything.

If your generator made noise, got hot and quit charging, one would suspect the generator. If you replaced the generator and regulator properly, the system should now work. You indicate it doesn't.

I am not sure on this, but making the generator 'motor' might not be a true test of its integrity. The full field test would be a pretty sure bet. If this works, then it's the regulator or wiring between regulator and generator that might be the problem.

Stuart

I got a 1962 235 with 12V - so all engine matters relate to the 1960 manual.

Interesting - I just got back from a short trip and it suddenly started charging for a minute, then stopped again.

So, I just replaced all three wires from the generator to the regulator - still no charging.

I grounded the field terminal of the generator - still no charging.


With a running engine and an AC voltmeter from ground to the Armature terminal of the generator, I do get rising millivolts with rising rpm, but no DC voltage at all.

That really does look like I have to inspect the (remanufactured and never used) generator.

How many more times do I have to buy a reman. part only to find it doesn't work properly?
I went through 3 fuel pumps, same thing, in previous years....before ending up with one that lasts for 2 years so far... :rolleyes:

What is the third wire from the generator to regulator, a seperate ground maybe!

Stuart

Oh, with the third wire I meant the regulator housing terminal to ground.....

Thanks for all your help and time.
I take the generator apart on the weekend and do the tests from the manual.

I bought it years ago as a backup....some remanufacturing job.

For my current 261 rebuilt for the coupe, I am thinking of going with an alternator, as I have heard they are required for a possible air-conditioning unit in the future.
Is that good thinking - and are there other benefits...?

On the road again,

Some folks swear by a separate ground wire from generator case to regulator.

I think the alternator is a very wise choice. They're for the most part solid state, high output and even come in the single wire version.

Stuart

Makes sense...I design audio vacuum tube circuits for a living and there are similarities, when it comes to proper grounding.

Things always happen for a reason.
This little generator adventure definetly makes me wanna go with an alternator for a supposed reliable long-distance driver....

But first, I have to get this original setup going on my 235.
Amazing how long this old generator lasted.
Only now after listening to the new quieter generator, I realize that light scratching noise I heard for the past decade, was the generator !!
...always wondered, where that light grey sound came from.
The old one also didn't had the oiling cups, like the new one has.
Anybody know what kind of oil works best here?

I wonder if an alternator would last that long while providing background noise for over a decade without greasing?

You can lubricate the generator with a drop or two of any light oil (engine oil will do) - applied at each oil change. Engine oil is usually changed every 3,000 miles or at least once a year before winter storage (if it is not driven much and is winter stored).

The double contact regulator is exactly the reason to disconnect the field wire before grounding it. They are rare but came out in the late 50,s early 60,s but were replaced with the alternators. There is no way to tell if you have one unless you remove the cover.