The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Chevy Suburban, differences and desirability

I am in pursuit of a suburban('47-'54) and am getting acquainted with them as we speak. There is a wealth of knowledge here on this site, and still finding my way around.
First question; for the '47-'54 subs, is there a particular year or years more desirable/valuable?
Second question; How does this community view or value the barn door vs. clam shell models of suburban?
Third; If updating to modern running gear, is there a standard of doing so that most would agree on?
Thanks so much, happy to be a new member. Bill

Bill, I guess its matter or what we can find and what we get use to. I have a 52 panel, not a suburban so maybe I shouldn't even chime in here... I've always liked the push button door handle and the wing vents. For my personal use I do like the barn doors better. If I Had a suburban I THINK I'd like the clam shell doors better on it.
Heck, some want to change from clam to barn door and vise versa. Even change from wing vent to full window and vise versa. Take a look around in the gallery at the suburban's and see what ya think.
Which do YOU prefer???.... or think you prefer?

[Bill-

Welcome.
As you will find (or have found) Suburbans are getting hard to come by. Unless you have a lot of money to throw at one you might be better off just finding the best one regardless of type of back doors or year. I own a 53 Suburban with barn doors. One important thing to make note of that I didn't know when I bought mine is almost all parts are available from the cab area forward on Suburbans. However from the cab area back there are very few aftermarket parts. Keep this in mind when looking for one. Look for the most complete one that you can find.

Good luck with your search.
Marc

I failed to mention that a fellow bolter, Gmoniz, has a "list" of things to look for and watch out for when purchasing a suburban/panel. Take a look in the tech tips....... Good luck.

EDIT: Actually its the second thread down on the panel/burb list of threads!!

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=529491#Post529491

bill,

Marc, youngrodder, posted very good advice.
Alvin (Achipmunk) points you to invaluable advice from George (GMONIZ)

rear doors vs end gate
vent windows vs side cowl vent
original engine vs non-original engine
original enclosed driveshaft vs conversion to open driveshaft
original 3.90 rear end vs conversion to 3.55 rear end (enclosed driveshaft)
and on, and on, and . . .

Your question about what most would agree on is sincere but humorous. Most reasonable people agree on encouraging people to do what suits their tastes, abilities, and budgets.

If you cannot do sophisticated sheet metal repair, look for the best sheet metal that you can afford to pay for. Try to buy a truck that has lived in a dry environment - inspect it carefully, and/or hire a pro to inspect it carefully.

George, very good list of stuff to look for when buying an AD suburban. I noticed that you used some of the pictures from my gallery.Its on Picasa. feel free to use anything from my gallery that you need. And if I can help in any other way let me know.


Weeds (D Weeden)

Hi there,
Thanks much for your thoughts and advice. I agree with you on preferences and differences among fellow enthusiasts. Heck, it's a good thing we all don't like the same kind of girl, right? Lol
As I stated, searching for a suburban. I am going to try to find a GMC, but may buy a Chevy. I'm in no real hurry, so will take some time to find something that I can get excited about. You know.
At this point, the clam-shell is my choice, 'cause to me it gives it more of a passenger vehicle appeal instead of a "truck/utility". I may not have the luxury of being that picky, we'll see, but will hold out for something very solid.
Thanks, Bill

Hey there!
I have seen the list of things to look for, and is a wealth of information for anyone looking to buy. Thanks so much for the time to put that info together. It's invaluable.
Bill

Lots of good advice above but ill chime in on drivetrain question by asking what is your vision of final product?
On front end first decision is i beam or IFS. If I beam you can upgrade brakes to disc and put in dual master cylinder to get better stopping ability . Better shocks and check condition of leaf springs. If IFS ther are many "Mustang" aftermarket kits or research stovebolt on narrowing a 80's bolt in. I put a 69 Nova subframe clip in my 49 burb which Is another option.

On engine/transmission upgrade you can upgrade to later model inline or swap in anything from small v8 I.e 283 to late model LS. Tranny can be from T5 behind inline to full electronic overdrive 4L80 versions. Just keep in mind the more "exotic" you go the more fabrication needed to fit 10LBs of stuff in a 5LB engine compartment. I have a 80's vintage 454 BB so again depends on your vision.

On rearend easiest is to make sure leaf spring, shackles, and shocks are in good shape and find newer rearend with better ratios. Also several kits to go to full bore triangulated 3 or link . I used same 69 nova rearend with offset rims to get correct stance inside the fenders.

Sorry for long diatribe but just say options are almost limitless depending on your end goal. Create that first and do what makes you happy. There are great restorations on Stovebolt from craftsman I truly admire but I don't have patience or ability to go that route. Just keep it fun, get it on the road and enjoy the journey.
P

Thanks 49,
I'm new to this era of truck, and trying to get "up to speed". I asked that question because when talking about some vehicles there seems to be a "standard" when it comes to modern upgrades. I have been learning about those options.
Wow! You stuck a BIG mill in yours! What is that like to operate?
Wondering, did the GMCs (burbs)ever come with a floor shifter?
I just need to get my hands on something nice to start with. I think from what I know so far about the years and options, I'd be tickled to find an earlier one ('51 or older, no vent windows) and the clam shell doors.
If I may inquire, how desirable and functional is one of those 302c.i. inline 6's?
Thanks so much for the information. Bill

Bill,

"Wondering, did the GMCs (burbs)ever come with a floor shifter?" - 47-54/55

The 1947 and earlier Chevrolet trucks had floor shifters on 3-speed and 4-speed transmissions. Someone else will have to comment on GMCs.

There is another active thread that refers to an after-market floor shifter. One might be available for your transmission - what transmission are you referring to?

The 4-speed transmissions were floor shifters.


"If I may inquire, how desirable and functional is one of those 302c.i. inline 6's?"

That is the most desirable GMC (GM) straight-six engine. It is powerful and reliable. It installs easily in any truck that came with a 228/248/270 engine.

Thank you for the info.
So, the three speeds were typically a column shifter, and the four speed a floor shift? Were they both good transmissions? Would changing the gears in the rear end compliment either the 3sp. or the 4sp.?
Thanks, Bill

They are both good transmissions for what they were designed to do.

The they both have the same ratio in high gear (1.00:1 - direct drive).

The 4-speed has a very low first gear.
The 4-speed is considered to be a very heavy duty transmission.

Changing the 47-55 1/2 ton rear end ring & pinion to a 3.55 gives you the same higher speed at the same lower RPM.

Thanks so much for taking your time to respond to my questions.
I read what sources I find, but sometimes it's really hard to get answers to certain questions, even with the internet at your fingertips.
I'm excited to have a Suburban, and am seriously considering one right now. The price is cheap, but it's exactly what I want, but missing a few things. It's a GMC, no wing windows, floor shift, clam shell. The owner doesn't know for sure what year it is, (haven't deciphered the tag yet, no title) but must be '49, '50? or early '51? The sheet metal in the pics look good, small hole in drivers floor, BUT, missing clam doors and engine/trans. Price; $500.00
Thanks for offering the information. Bill

Bill,

If you post the body tag code, people here can help you.

If it has an engine, that code is pressed into the block in the ledge to the rear of where the distributor goes into the block.

If the three doors are good, and the fenders are good, and all the interior/exterior window trim is there, $500 might be good deal, just for those parts.

What is missing?

Are the two sets of rear seats with it?

TC and others are giving good advice about value and condition. I would never buy a vehicle with no title except for parts. NEVER. No matter how many times someone says "all you have to do is..." NEVER! Most older trucks probably would not be in danger of being stolen, but many states make it very hard on you to get a title. I just don't want the headache and risk. At least try to check the VIN at the DMV before you buy. A bill of sale is just a receipt.
If you have plenty of space and an understanding significant other and it's pretty solid except for missing parts, it sounds like a great buy. Then buy another with a title and good bones and build one out of them. The left over parts will recoup much of the investment. You get a complete truck. I have done that. Remember, with missing parts, you will be just about doing that anyway. Looking and looking and dealing and dealing and bringing home parts to put in a pile and so on. Buying two is a real good way to go....or three. I have redone many, many, suburban's and panels, that's all I do. I can't reiterate enough what has already been said about availability of certain parts. One with a good body behind the doors is worth way more than a good body in front. Another tid bit: If it only has one seat and that is a rear seat, that seat is worth what he is asking for the whole thing, upholstered or not. Good clam shells= same. Good Barn doors=same. Clam shell swinging tail light= $$. good cargo floor= $, no dent top= $, good bumpers= $. Didn't read G-mo's tip, so sorry if I repeat. He is a good guy and a great resource.
IMO: upgrades are down the line, get the truck(s) first. You'll have plenty of "upgrades" to worry about after you get them home.

Hey thanks bartamos,
I appreciate all your info on the old vehicles. I had decided to spend a fair amount for a "good" complete vehicle. Well, this one became available , and it's what I had in mind. The GMCs don't seem to be near as plentiful, and when adding clam shell doors, no wing windows, and floor shift, it kinda narrows it down a bit. I better go for it.
No title though, and that doesn't concern me much. I know it can be a haste, but can depend on where you are doing business too. (city or burg) Lol
ALL great advice, and a lot has to do with experience. I hope to be knee deep in a project before too long.
Thanks, Bill

Good deal, it will be lots of fun. keep it touch.

Hey tc,
Unfortunately, it's missing engine/tranny, seats, and rear doors. It looks to be pretty solid. Really can't beat the price. I planned on paying a lot more for something complete, but wondering how long it would take to find another one just like it, in good condition with all the stuff. I think 500 is a gimmy, and don't want to pass it up.
I hope I can be resourceful enough to find the stuff I need without paying mainstream prices. But, sometimes, a bird in the hand.................
Thanks for your input. Bill