The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Heater Ad 1954....leak....easy remove?

Of course it's Winter and of course my heater core is leaking anti-freeze on the cab floor(right on my wife's feet) so I need to get it fixed. Do I need to drain the whole system or just disconnect the one hose that has the on-off valve. I just put new anti-freeze this summer ..of course...what's the easiest way to get said heater out and keep from draining all the anti-freeze?
Thanks, Steve

You could jumper it with a piece of hose at the water pump like in this pic
...pic...

Or you could jumper it at the firewall, where the hoses enter with a pipe fitting and hose clamps

what heater do you have?

Most likely you'll have to remove the heater from the truck and disassemble to get the core out.

Just bought a set of these from Harbor Freight for a leaking fuel line, makes stopping up a hose really easy. $10 for a set and they seal really well with no resulting hose damage.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/10369638063/in/set-72157631868452754
Block both heater hoses and pull the heater out.

Once your core is fixed I'd keep coolant running through it all the time. That way it's just like a small radiator (which it is) and won't have coolant just setting in it. I've done this for about 20 yrs since I get my core recored and have had no leaks. Living the the desert, I haven't noticed any great increase in cab temp either.

Can I just take the hoses off the water pump? Will that empty the radiator or just the fluid in the hoses and heater core. I can buy new heater hose. The shut off valve is on the lower heater hose it's an after market type I guess it doesn't matter which hose as it stops the water from going into he heater core. Draining the rad is a pain but I guess if it's the only way?

ugh, Steve

Hi Steve

Check the inside diameter of the hoses that feed your heater. They may be too large and not sealing against the pipes on the core.

The Air Flow heater in my '54 started dripping on my wife's feet, too. I pulled the heater a couple of times and tested it but couldn't find the problem. I checked the hoses almost by accident and found that they were a little too large. Don't know if the hoses stretched or if they were always oversize.

- Lonnie

Thanks all....lonnie...good thought on the hoses I have had problems making the hoses tight enough to the heater. I thought 5/8" was what is called out for on my AD heater at least that is what is there? Guess I'll be pulling hoses and heater out. How much water anti-freeze will I loose pulling the hoses from the water pump?
Thanks. Steve

Steve,
Place a bucket under your radiator, open the petcock, drain enough to lower water level below the water pump. Remove hoses one at a time & drain into bucket. If you are careful you will not loose too much fluid. There will be some fluid in the heater core so be careful if you have carpet on the floor. Cover with towels.
After repair, pour water back into radiator using a fine screen or cheesecloth to filter the water (to remove any thing that may have fallen in).

Blow a little air through one of the heater pipes it should blow out some of the excess water in the heater core, before you unbolt it from the cab.
Most of the water should drain out of the heater core anyway as both connections are at the bottom of the heater core on a fresh air heater.
John

Steve -

Yes, 5/8" is the id size of the hoses, but my 5/8" hose was larger. You can easily tell by poking your finger in the hose, then into a confirmed 5/8" hose. Easy to tell the difference between a good one and a bad one.

You can drain enough water from the radiator to drop the level below the fittings on the water pump. Then not much will be lost when you remove the hoses. Either pour the radiator water back in after you fix the problem or add new water and antifreeze to restore the level. You will lose the water from the heater core and from the heater hoses.

Might as well flush the system and add new antifreeze/water when the job is completed and tested to do it right.

- Lonnie

Steve,
Where in the SF bay area are you? I would bypass the water pump for now. Meanwhile pull the heater and replace the heater core. It's not very difficult to do.

Good idea..Duh....petcock to drain lower than water pump. I guess it's been awhile and I forgot the obvious...thanks for setting me straight everyone!

Turned off the heater loop as I need the truck to go to dump and pick up wood. I took a look and the PO used metric screws to install heater? I will install rivetnuts in each hole 1/4-20. The lower LH screw is way back so I will make a longer screw driver for that. I took the paper glove box out and will order a new one. I'm interested in the hose ID. I will take a pair of calipers with me to FLAPS and check the ID for myself on both heater hose and heater. I hate the screw type clamps they cut into the hose after awhile. I will search out some better type of clamp if there is one.

We no longer live in the Bay Area .....we live Grass Valley, CA.....thank God!

Old trucks are fun......and the people that drive them are FUNNER!

Steve