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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 144 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 144 | any of you guys that have done sand and/or media blasting outside have recommendations regarding mask requirements? There's things I'd like to sometimes blast and blasters the scale of what I'd need are certainly cheap enough, but I read about lung issues and it concerns me, THANK YOU. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | If you have health concerns your not finished researching yet. Find out what is the truth not whats the common opinion.
If you have some room and are a DIY'er make your own blast cab with an exhaust. Or wear a respirator or set up a ballard hood with a fresh air supply... There's ways. lotsa ways.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | if you're worried about your lungs, don't use silica sand, find some garnet, then when the neighbors aren't home, stay upwind and let'er rip
Bill | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | I blast outside with regular sand from Home Depot. Not "special" sand. You have to sift it to get out the clogger size bits. All soil has sand in it so it's Ok to rake it in. Not OK to breath it until it settles. You can blast on a tarp and reuse several times. A good respirator is a must. Not silica/pool filter sand, not play sand, but general purpose sand. I also have a blast cabinet with Aluminum Oxide media.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 235 | I thought I could blast some small parts in the woods with walnut shells. I figured that would be a natural component that I would not have to worry about leaving there. Do walnut shells really do anything vs. sand or other media? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | walnut shells are better than sand for some uses, and don't build as much heat
Bill | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 1,438 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 1,438 | I did some blasting outside this fall. I used a fresh air system and a blasting hood. I don't think there is a problem with any of the blast media being left where it falls in the woods. I will say though that you will use more media than you expect so using a tarp is the way to go so you can collect/sift it and reuse it. I got mine from Harbor Freight. Was the cheapest I could find and delivery was just a few bucks. They have descriptions of the different media on their site. More options than I knew of.
Dennis
40 Chevy 1/2 ton
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Not using sand and not saving the other media will be expensive. Sand is $2.50 a bag. Walnut shells are certainly bio friendly in the woods. So is sand. Only sheet metal will have a possibility of warpage. Hard parts, brackets, wheels, castings, and all that, will not warp. Don't sandblast anything with bearings, gears, rotating parts or intake related. IMO.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | What blasting media would not be "bio-friendly" in the woods? Plastic?
Most likely the least friendly material in the woods would be the waste components of the paint that will left on the ground?
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Lefty, depending on how your set up you will determine a lot. Take a look at what your going to blast. That will, to some extent help you decide "how and what" is actually best for you. Although I use fine sand for 90% or the stuff I blast, I also have some plastic, glass beads, and garnet for my cabinet. When I did blasting outside it seemed I used sand all the time.
Personally, I sold my pressurized blaster for half what I gave for it. Unless you plan to do a lot it may be better to get it done by someone else. For example my frame was really bad and I used a LOT of sand. For a few more dollars I could have had it blasted and not had the headache. To blast you also need DRY air. If not, you'll spend more time trying to unclog the system than blasting. If it won't go in my blasting cabinet it goes to a friend that does it. ...another thought is maybe someone who does mobile blasting. My neighbor had his 50 GMC blasted last summer. Cost him total of 300 bucks. Guy came to his house, brought the sand with him. (Same sand I use) and had a helper with him. He's been blasting for almost 20 years. The GMC was apart so it was all blasted. That was a deal. 3 hours and he was gone, truck ready for next item on his list.
Ultimately the decision is yours. Since we all are just giving our opinions I'd suggest, depending on your system, sand that is sized. No sifting, and it helps to keep system unclogged. I pay 4.35 for a 50lb bags (easier for me to handle) and its sized. Fine, X-fine, or medium from the local place I buy my concrete from. Good luck, hope some of this helps you in your final decision. Let us know how you do. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | I used to sand blast a lot of stuff, but no more. I think I still have blast media in my ears. It is a nasty job unless you have all of the equipment that the professionals use. If you buy all of what they use, you would be money ahead having the pros do it for you.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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