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Joined: Nov 2013
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Hello all! Finally registered been lurking around for a couple months. A quick summary of what/how I purchased a 52 GMC 1/2 ton back in September. It's all original. I am the third owner of the truck. It was pretty much kept in a garage for the last 25 years and hadn't been started since stored. The guy was going to do a V8 swap and pulled the motor, then decided not too a few months before I bought it and just placed the motor back in and didn't connect anything not even the motor mounts. Lucky me it wasn't locked up, and was able to turn the motor over by hand. Well in the last couple days since I finally have some free time I started trying to get her to fire up and have had no luck. I have power to the coil, but no spark. I replaced the coil, condenser, point, wires, and plugs and still nothing. I ordered a distributor and going to see what happens. Maybe someone can help me out here just in case I'm missing something. As soon as I figure out how to post pics from my phone ill do it!

Tony



'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #984162 11/06/2013 10:37 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Tony, welcome to the Stovebolt Page. You could not have chosen a better web site. Knowledge and great folks abound here on the Bolt.
Since this is the Welcome Centre may I suggest asking all your questions in the most appropriate forum for best results....but don't worry, if a moderator thinks it would be better in another place they move it for you.
Maybe ask in the General or Electrical forum for solutions to your problem. Take your time, learn your way around the bolt. There is so much here.
Also, you will need to make at least 4 post before you can send PM's to folks and perhaps to even post pictures. New members are "moderated" for the first 4 post. This helps us keep out the spammers and maintain a nice friendly family forum....and remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question. We are all here to help.
....and don't be surprised to find there are other bolters all over Florida!!


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Tonyd #984165 11/06/2013 10:55 PM
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Thanks bud! I usually don't join forums, but this one seems worth joining! I found a lot of information on it in the past few months!


'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #984392 11/07/2013 11:30 PM
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New diagnosis update-
I verified power to the coil and I have it. Battery fully charged, and no spark no where not even straight from the coil. Now I removed all the plugs and turned over the engine and it spins faster than when I have the plugs in. I have a feeling it's the starter but want to know if anyone thinks I have missed something.

Not that I beleive I need the belt on for the generator to spin, but would I need the belt on for it to produce spark? I've looked at wiring diagrams and it doesn't seem that way.

Thanks in advance for the help

Tony


'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #984399 11/08/2013 12:17 AM
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It will spin faster with the plugs out because there is no compression to slow it down. Once the plugs are in then the starter has to turn the engine through with the compression in place.

When you replaced the points, did you gap them while they were on the tall (high) side of the cam that moves them? If you set the on the flat rather than the peak they will be open all the time and will not generate spark.

If you have a test light, ground it to the engine. Then with the probe touch the terminal (-) that goes to the coil and have someone turn on the ignition switch. If the points are closed the light will not light up, if the points are open then the light will light up. Then have someone crank the engine for you while you continue to hold the test light in place. If the points are opening and closing the light should go off and on as the engine cranks.

If the test light does go on and off while the engine is cranking, you should have spark.

You can also remove the distributor cap and while its dark have someone crank the engine. You should see some sparks happening at the points. If not then double check the gap on the points.

Tonyd #984442 11/08/2013 2:40 AM
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I gapped it on tdc. I didn't have the valve cover off while I did it. I have GMC 228 the repair manuals for chevy say that tdc is the ball and I read online for the 228 it's the line between the U and C. So which would be correct?


'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #984477 11/08/2013 4:32 AM
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Did you make sure the points were on the point when you gapped them? And what did you set the gap at?

One other thing you can try to see if you get spark is to take the wire loose from the coil to the distributor. Take it loose at the distributor, not the coil. With the ignition switch on, take the loose end of the wire and scrape it along the engine to ground the coil then take it away form the engine. Do this fairly quickly and see if you have spark from the coil then. If so, then your trouble is still in the distributor.

Perhaps the points are grounded all the time, or the condenser is shorted.

Last edited by Roy Rodgers; 11/08/2013 4:33 AM.
Tonyd #984486 11/08/2013 5:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Tonyd
I gapped it on tdc.

The points are just starting to open at TDC.

The line between U and C is TDC. UC stands for upper center, same as top dead center.

Points must be adjusted when they are at there widest. That is when the rubbing block on the points is on the peak of one of the points cam lobe.


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Tonyd #984497 11/08/2013 7:16 AM
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Thanks for all the replies. I have done most of what you guys have suggested! I gapped the points at the recommended gap according to the repai manual. I'm going to try one last thing that I had read on here, clean up the battery terminals and all the grounding points. Ill triple check everything out again and see what happens. After that I have the slightest idea what it could be!


'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #984665 11/09/2013 12:26 AM
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Since it has been sitting for a while, the old fuel might have had alcohol in it, which might have corroded the inside of the carb, more dangerous, some of the valves might be stuck even though you have some compression, it might be a good idea to tap all the valves gently w/ a brass or wood punch to check. Stuck valves can lead to bent pushrods and broken rockers.


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Tonyd #984723 11/09/2013 3:44 AM
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I had the same problem. If your test light shows voltage to both sides of the coil, check the ground wire from the distributor to it's engine ground point. Mine was to side cover screw. I repalced the connectors, made sure I had a good connection on bot ends - and got a spark from the coil wire to the block. Problem solved.

Tonyd #984838 11/09/2013 5:08 PM
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So I double and triple checked everything! I have 6.147 volts on both sides of the coil. No spark coming out of the coil, but I have 6.147
Volts there as well with the key on. When I crank the motor everything drops to 4.3 volts and fluctuates between that and 3.9 volts. I just happened to touch the starter after two short attempts cranking the motor and it was hot. I ended up ordering a new starter. I have a feeling that the motor isn't spinning fast enough to get even the slightest spark.

Also I don't have fuel, I actually have to order a new one. But I do believe I need spark before I can get her running!

Last edited by Tonyd; 11/09/2013 5:11 PM.

'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #984842 11/09/2013 5:16 PM
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You might want to clean your battery cables and check your ground cables before you invest in a new starter. You might want to clean the points and re gap them after you clean the contact surface. If the engine is turning and things are right you will get a spark.

Tonyd #984874 11/09/2013 9:23 PM
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Changed all the ground cables and the positive cables to the battery. Now she spins a lot better. I still do not have spark. I triple checked and have power to the coil, and power to the dizzy. I have power coming out of the coil when cranking but no spark!
I took off the cap and noticed the point doesn't fully close. The closest to be closed it gets is what the gap is set at. So when it's working it goes from the gap to wider open. I'm thinking somehting isn't right here but not too sure.


'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #984879 11/09/2013 9:41 PM
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Points have to close. Gap needs to be set on one of the six high areas[not sure of proper name-distributor lobe?]

Tonyd #984880 11/09/2013 9:44 PM
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Tonyd #984892 11/09/2013 10:18 PM
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Thanks to everyone's help. The point wasn't gapped at the max opening. So I did it and she fired right up. Didn't hear any rod knock and she purred like a kitten!


'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #985032 11/10/2013 5:56 AM
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Since you are dealing with a GMC unless somebody changed the wiring the truck should be wired positive ground, not negative. (Positive post on battery to frame, Negative post to lug on top of starter).

Tonyd #985084 11/10/2013 3:30 PM
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Hi Tonyd. Glad to find another bolter in Miami. I'm down south, near Homestead. Enjoy your GMC!

Tonyd #985324 11/11/2013 6:44 AM
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54hydromaticfl once I get her road savvy lets go to the hangouts at sir pizza they have!!


'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock
Tonyd #985571 11/12/2013 2:40 AM
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'52 GMC 100 long bed, 248 engine, 3 on the tree all stock

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