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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,050 Posts1,055,646 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Keep thinking I'd like to find a way to be able to wire and install gauges from the front of the dashboard of a '50 AD 1/2T instead of the back. It's a pain to hook everything up than blindly(nearly) attach them from the rear. Anybody do or see a clever mod.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | A couple mirrors strategically placed made a difference for me. Another option is a video cam and a monitor set up. 
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Don't you wire the gauge cluster out front, dress the wires, provide a service loop, and install from rear? The speedo is easier because just reach in from trim opening to the right? I think that's how thousands of guys do it. There are ways to front mount the gauges, but not stock looking. As you know, the next era's, on up, all have front mount clusters. In any case if gauges are well tested and wires are terminated properly and sleeved, it's kind of a one time deal. Not worth all the effort to design/build a front mount. But if you want to do that...... think making a plate to accept the gauges and then cut bigger holes in dash or trim/modify the ears on gauge. Add rivnuts or other blind threads to dash and mount plate from front withy screws. Could look custom, could look ugly.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Don't you wire the gauge cluster out front, dress the wires, provide a service loop, and install from rear? The speedo is easier because just reach in from trim opening to the right? I think that's how thousands of guys do it. There are ways to front mount the gauges, but not stock looking. As you know, the next era's, on up, all have front mount clusters. In any case if gauges are well tested and wires are terminated properly and sleeved, it's kind of a one time deal. Not worth all the effort to design/build a front mount. But if you want to do that...... think making a plate to accept the gauges and then cut bigger holes in dash or trim/modify the ears on gauge. Add rivnuts or other blind threads to dash and mount plate from front withy screws. Could look custom, could look ugly. Yeah, that's what I have done, but It's pain just the same. One good idea from this site was using wing nuts on the back studs,thus getting rid of wrench finagling. And yes, I was thinking some sort of panel, but I have never seen one done, so I asked.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 72 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 72 | I too have given this a lot of thought since I put everything back into the dash. What a PIA! If I get another of these trucks and do a cab restoration, I'm going to consider cutting the dash in some strategic places so it's removable or hinged. I watch enough of these car shows where they modify parts to know that it's probably possible if given some thought. Even if one was to cut the dash out and modify it so that it bolted back in would be better than the permanent, welded state they're all in. It would make reassembly SO much easier.
~Dave
Last edited by OldDawg; 10/28/2013 7:45 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | Just from having a close relationship with the dash in two cabs from a removal standpoint, I can totally agree with the cussing and difficulty in removing these gauges. I know I will be giving myself ample extra length of wire when building my harness so I have room to plug and test with my body not being upside down and on my head trying to connect everything.
However, I would be concerned that removing the dash could potentially harm the structural integrity of the cab. Seems like the dash serves as the lateral bracing for the front of the cab. I'll leave mine as is. Considering removing it from my parts cab as it is a pretty nice uncut dash in a pretty rough shell. Either use it as a wall hanging in the shop or sell it on ebay. Haven't decided yet. So that may answer the structural integrity concern. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Before I would cut up a dash and screw on a plate, I would just add hang down gages. Temp, volt, gas. Not as "risky", damaging or "custom". Like I said it's a one time thing. You are not wiring on your head, just putting in a few fasteners. With a mirror if you need to, as said. You can buy "Quick Acting nuts or knobs. They are threaded normally, then have a plain hole drilled at an angle. Tilt, slide on, tilt back straight, thread on and tighten. Faster and easier than wing nut. Don't have to "start" the threads blind. Not sure if size you need is available. I have used these, they work great. http://www.carrlane.com/catalog/ind...0B1713050245221E0107070F1A3C3B285352415B
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 | Agree, the pita scale goes to max when R&R'ing the gauges in my 49 3100. After I got my plump upper torso contorted enough to fit between the seat base & door frame and my head elevated enough to somewhat see what I was doing, my thoughts wondered to the poor fellow(s) that had to install these for a living on the assembly line back in the day. Wingnuts? thats a great idea. Dave | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I like the knurl knobs Bart mentioned. I did mine not to long ago with the radio grille/trim out and it wasn't so bad. I found a nut driver works the best for me. As for the wiring I put the wires on the gauges with a long enough pigtail that once installed I simply plug them in. Now, if them suckers will just last a few more years I will never have to worry about them!!! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 133 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 133 | use PIN plugs. wire the one half with about 6-7inches, then install the gauges. wire the corresponding plug the same. and then plug them together. get mine from speedway, cheap and easy.
daren | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Both good ideas. Still leaves the bolting up process up for grabs. Between my big mitts and all the other bracing,column, and other "stuff" behind the dashboard, it's a pain.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | I'm not familiar with the dash in your truck, so take this one with a grain of salt... This is a dash mod I did for a Studebaker truck, removable dash panel and gauge pods made for a curved panel... Starts on post 68 and I believe goes through to post 98 for the conclusion... May work for what you're doing.. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182565&page=4 | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | These trucks were definitely not designed for the portly gentleman like myself. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Robert, Really very nice work and a good, workable idea to consider. Thanks!
Drew
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