The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop New head seeping 261...

After 2nd shake down drive everything is rosie, now some brown seapage from deck on driver's side! The thing runs fine but this is not good, any ideas???
Re-torque? Oil and water look normal, no smoke or leaks.

I would try a re-torque after it's fully warmed up. What was done to the deck and head surface before final assembly ? What brand head set ?

Head was re-surfaced, deck was checked with a straight edge. Got the 'Best' brand head set from Patrick's. You are saying to torque hot or after she's been warmed up? The thing has been on the road once after breaking in a new cam, ran over 20 min.first in the shop.

What type of gasket? Copper? Composition? I think Best offers more an one type.

Head gasket was not copper, believe was their composition type.

Do not panic. You state it runs fine. Retorque at operating temp. Clean and watch.I built engines for 23 years and it is not uncommon for a stain to develope on the block. Cleaning solvents/lubrication will leach out of HOT screw threads (head bolt holes) and cause a block stain. I have watch the head bolts bubble (boil) fluids. My .02

When you installed the cylinder head bolts did you oil them? By oiling the threads and then torquing you are putting much higher torque on them.... well, you are still applying the same torque but the amount of bolt stress is much higher.

Page 6-2 'Installation' para 2.

I believe part of the procedure in the shop manual for head installation is a re-torque after the engine is warm. That is for a 216/235 but a 261 wouldn't be that different. WhenI did mine some of the bolts moved at lower values.

The only post-install procedure after warm up is adjust the valves.

You can always re-torque the bolts... but like I said, the initial assembly was to oil the threads. Oiling the threads allows the bolt to stretch more and that is what creates the torque. Un-oiled threads most of the torque is from friction of the metal-metal contact. You can get 30% more torque from oiled threads than unoiled.

When you re-torque the head bolts, loosen each bolt one at a time and torque to specs. If you try to set the torque on a tight bolt, you won't get proper torque. The wrench needs to be in motion as you reach the desired torque reading.

Had the same weeping problem on a 262 Ford six after running the rebuilt engine for a half hour. Retorqueing the head took care of it.

step 18 - oiling head bolts
step 4 - oiling head bolts

I tighten in the three sequences: 50 ft lbs, 75 ft lbs, and 95 ft lbs

Then, start-up and normalize the engine temperature (30 minutes running at "normal" temperature), and then adjust the valves: Step 3: Tighten all manifold bolts, valve rocker arm support bolts, and cylinder head bolts (see Note after step 3).

Here is a valve lash adjustment procedure: for mechanical/solid lifters.

Thanks for all the great input, Bolters are the best.
Jim