The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks 65 chevy tie rod help

Are they any specialty tools or tricks for removing the tie rod ends on my 65 chevy truck? I'm tried using a pipe wrench with no luck. They won't turn any at all. I do still have the sleeve on it but it's loose and you can turn it around with your hand.

Not sure exactly what procedure you're using, but once the nut is removed from the stud, and the taper is broken free from the knuckle/center link (dependent on outer or inner), the tie rod should just simply be threaded out of the sleeve. To pop it out of the knuckle/center link, there's 2 methods. One is to use a tie rod separator, commonly called a pickle fork. Generally, those will cut the boot. The other way is to rap the side of the knuckle/center link where the tie rod stud goes through. It is best to use a brass hammer for this to prevent damage. Do not hit the end of the stud, it won't work, and you'll end up bunging up the threads on the end of the tie rod.

one can always back the nut off flush with the stud and then whack it with a hammer, but just be careful to not screw up the threads to bad so that you can still back off the nut; don't leaves any exposed threads from either the stud or nut.you will flatten the thread and then you are toast. It can be more of a challenge if skill and daring this way or if you are stuck with out the proper tools. Worst scenario is a new t/rod end which you will more than likely need anyway. they also use to make a hooded nut that went over the end of the stud then you could whack on the nut to your hearts content.
ron

What they said. As far as hitting the nut method, I would "back it up" with a 4x4, or something like that, resting/wedged against a close spot and the frame or floor so as not to stress, bend, fold or mutilate other parts/rods. Maybe the pickle fork borrowed from FLAPS would be a good way, you will be replacing probably and/or maybe they sell a boot. I have wacked them but I had everything around it secured to no force was applied to anything but the rod end. It's a taper fit, you can't "turn" it but it will pop off pretty easily unless it's rusted on. If it is, you need to get the puller from FLAPS. My O'reilly's loans all that for free.

There is the pickle fork method, the hit the nut with the hammer method, and a third: a threaded puller tool: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w80557?seid=srese1&gclid=CK_krvO-hboCFcZj7AodfhsAAQ

The tool linked above works pretty good (air wrench is always helpful)and less likely to rip up the boot.

As far as the easiest, fastest way, it probably is the pickle fork in an air hammer. Last time I did some front end work this worked very well.

The hard part is if you also get into replacing the lower ball joints....

Thanks for the link

R-Bo beat me to it.
The best method (IMO) is to use the tool shown in R-Bo's post.
If you have access to a Harbor Freight you can get one there or any FLAPS for not a lot of money. If you use the tool properly it will last a lifetime (let's face it, how often do you change your tie-rods).
If needed you can just buy the tie-rod boots themselves.
Also, the tool will not work for the lower ball joints (use a pickle fork, you can't get the boot by itself anyway). But I think it will work for the idler arm.

....all of your are correct about using the right tool but when I didn't have one I simply WHACKED the outer edge of it with a big hammer. It is NOT the correct way but I must admit, I've removed many of them with a hammer and about the 3rd big WHACK and they would pop off..... that was back in the day. Now I have one like Regie suggested. In fact, I offered it to a friend tonight to pull a pitman arm.

My how things have changed.....especially when you have a few extra dollars to buy something. LOL

There are several sizes of pullers and they may look a bit different. Check on line or ebay. I have bought them for two bucks at a flea market. It is the easy way to go!

You CANNOT afford to screw up your brakes or steering, period.

best wishes,

Les