The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Broken brake line..........

Went out and started Brutus, my C60, and the brakes went right to the floor. At first I thought it might be the master cylinder, but while I was on the phone with NAPA I found fluid dripping from one of the frame rails. It looks like one of the steel brake lines has a hole.

I guess, since I'm going to change out the rear differential anyway, I might as well completely go through the brake system from the master cylinder back. Where can I find pre-bent steel brake lines? I think I have a tube bender and flaring tool, should I attempt this myself?? There is only one master cylinder available in the Portland area, it's new and cost $97.17 !!!!! I guess it's worth it in the end.....

Hy Iron Clad, you can piece a brake piping system together yourself, the newer coloured brake tubing is supposed to be easier to bend by hand and harder to kink by accident. Premade brake lines come in many different lengths, and with careful picking, bending and a few union fittings you may not even have to make any flares of your own. While your at it replace all of your rubber flex lines as well, hope that helps.

Thanks 3B. That's good advice I was thinking that as well, (replacing the rubber flex lines). I might as well just do the whole job new. I'll check with NAPA tomorrow about the pre-made brake lines. I'm thinking I'll just order the new master cylinder while I'm at it. I don't know about the wheel cylinders yet until I get to that point. Well, actually I had planned on replacing the wheel cylinders on the new rear differential before installation anyway.

Now, it seems the HVAC system is operating okay. Should I bother diving into that? I was thinking about just replacing all of the lines leading to the HVAC and from the HVAC, but not tear into the HVAC itself.......Thanks!

Hi,Jeff! Fellow "Bolter",Bob Burgoyne,has a hydrovac rebuild "link" in his "Gallery" page! His truck is a 1964 Chevy C-60. The name of the manufacturer is: Reman Incorporated. He says that the rebuild was actually fun to do,and quite simple. Nice step-by-step instructions/pics/exploded views. Good idea to replace those "HVAC" flex lines,as well. Hope this helps.

Cool, thanks Bill. I'll check that out. That would make a complete new brake system all around Oh, I forgot, I'm still missing the filter that fits the HVAC pipe coming up behind the seat. Can't seem to find that anywhere. Still works without it but seems to run the engine idle higher. I noticed that when I put my finger over the pipe the engine idle smooth's out as well.....

IC,

If you can make the engine run different when you seal off the breather inlet tube, then your Hydrovac has a leaky piston seal. The breather is on the fresh air side of the piston. When activated the engine vacuum sucks the air out on the engine side of the piston and air rushes in from the fresh air side. The two should never meet, the piston and it's seal keeps them separated. Sounds like a rebuild is in order for that as well.

Mike B

Good grief Mike, that doesn't sound good. Well, looks like I'm rebuilding the whole thing then.....The truck might even stop if I do it right, LOL......

Should the breather inlet tube suck air in all of the time, even at idle when I'm not stepping on the brake? Or should it only suck in fresh air when the brake is applied?

Thanks for the info.!!

Hy Iron Clad, the fresh air filter in the cab should never be under "vacuum", you can sometimes here when the booster is functioning air going through the filter to the booster (Hydravac). As Mike B said your Hydravac is leaking from one side of the piston to the other, so my advise is a complete rebuild of the brake system. Incidentally HVAC stands for Heating, Ventilation, and Air conditioning, is that what you're referring to in using those letters?

I found much satisfaction in bending/creating my own brake, fuel, and vacuum lines. Remove and use your old lines as a guide, and go slow.

Hey 3B, LOL......Oops, I meant Hydravac.....Yep, I've decided to go ahead and just rebuild everything from then master cylinder back. Thanks for the information!

Hi,Jeff! on the '60 Viking 60,I could hear the vent,only when the brake pedal was first applied. I only heard it for a couple of seconds,even while stopped at a light,or waiting at an intersection. Measure the O.D.,of your breather tube,and see if you can match it to an oil breather,from an old tractor.(like an A.C.WD-45). The construction is the same. Maybe an ag-supply store may be able to order one?? Hope this helps!!

Hi,Jeff! on the '60 Viking 60,I could hear the vent,only when the brake pedal was first applied. I only heard it for a couple of seconds,even while stopped at a light,or waiting at an intersection. Measure the O.D.,of your breather tube,and see if you can match it to an oil breather,from an old tractor.(like an A.C.WD-45). The construction is the same. Maybe an ag-supply store may be able to order one?? On the brake,fuel,and vac.lines,Make Sure that all of your fittings match correctly. there was a post on here a couple of months back,where a guy had a problem with leaking fittings. The lines he purchased weren't marked well,and he couldn't tell if they were S.A.E.,or metric! He ended up going to a reputable parts store,where they had a knowledgeable clerk,that HELPED him purchase the correct hardware. You might want to "dry-fit" them,while at the store,especially if you live in a remote area. I worked on "'Tater",on "the farm",20 miles from the nearest parts store. I can't tell you how much time and fuel I wasted,by either forgetting something,or purchasing a mis-matched part. Purchase a GOOD flaring tool, (like "Snap-On",Mac),otherwise you may have problems with leaks there,too. I bought a cheap one,(H.F.),and it split the lines,halfway through the flare. FRUSTRATING!! Hope this helps!!