The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine temp at idle ?

Been dealing with engine overheating for some time now and finally had the block flushed clean...got tons of rust and scale out. It's not all back to drivable condition yet but will be soon. Started it the other day just in the shop and let it idle for a bit.. Just at idle it runs at 195 which kinda scares me..seems way too high for idle. Ambient temp on that day was about 85. Just kinda nervous about this but will see soon enough. Does this not seem high to you guys just sitting in a garage at idle...? True, it has only an elec fan and only moves about 1000cu ft/sec... maybe less...

Like I said, we'll find out soon enough but if it overheats while climbing some grades I would not know what else to do ?

My opinion, 195 at idle is OK. Also, if using a stock temp gauge
there is some degree slop there. I think when driving and air rushing threw the radiator, it would be fine.

Thanks Drew... This was meas. with a heat gun. The temp gauge needs to be replaced. Guess I'm just nervous after dealing with this problem for so long

What temp thermostat you have in it??

I'm pretty sure it's a 180. If it's a 160 I'm really worried...just can't recall now. I'll be able to drive/test it this week so will soon see. I know it will idle ok, be fine on flat ground cruising but worried a bit about under load up a grade. It's just been such a battle to get to the bottom of this that I'm a tad nervous....we all want to see these type problems get solved...once and for all.

You might want to get rid of that electric fan and go back to the original type fan mounted to the radiator. Some electric fans can actually make things worse for air flow.

I don't disagree at all. To do that I'll need a new water pump and Dave's relocation plate. Almost did that but my mechanic was really nervous about drilling those two holes in the block to mount it. I would be much happier with a big belt driven fan myself and have that in mind if this set up does not work out.

Does it stay at 195 indefinitely at idle or did you get scared and shut it off as soon as it hit 195? I understand if you did shut it off right away. I am always paranoid after a rebuild. I once put off even starting a complete rebuild for 2 weeks out of pure fear. If it stays at 195 at idle for extended periods, I wouldn't be concerned. I probably wouldn't leave it at idle unattended until I drove it around for awhile to see what temperature it runs at while driving around.

It stayed at that temp for a while...still does not have the tranny back in so could not drive it but will this coming week. At some point during the whole process the temp gauge got trashed so theres one on order. The temps noted were taken with an IR gun. This was just a test and no one left it alone for any time...

the fan setup you describe is likely the entire problem, it should not run 195 at idle, but you should get more than "pretty sure" about the stat rating, you might have been given a 195, or have a defective 180, take it out and check, don't trust the numbers stamped on it, test it in a pan of water on the stove with a good thermometer

Bill

You should get a good box fan and put it in front of the grille and see what the temperature does with some good air flow through the radiator.

I've re-read your very first post and there are "flags" in it.
First off hopefully none of the "tons of rust and scale" are not now in the radiator.
Flag #2, a fan that pulls only 1000 will not truly get the job done. Especially in the hot summertime.
I'd also say wait until you get a good guage and see what happens.

I've ran electric fans quite a bit without any problems. I've also had trucks idle, while working on them, for quite a while in the shop and still maintain correct temp. The correct fan is a must whether it is a mechanical fan or an electric!.... and a fan shroud is almost a must on some of these modified vehicles.

1000cfm! My farts push more air. Check out perma-cool. The have nice 3500cfm that are 13"x13" wide and like 1-1/2" thick. I have one, no fan shroud, fiberglass hood without holes by the latch like a factory and I never hit 190. The fan is a bummer. Also I recommend running purple ice as an additive in the antifreeze. Sounds lame but it helped. I run it in my cummins and my small block powered c-10.

Hey Hollow.... You have such a way with words.... but I'll look at it

I know, I know. I talk Perdy. But yes, check out perma cool. It's a bummer to have to cough up more coin, but it is worth it. The relay kit is nice also. Fan stays on after the engine is off to keep cooling. Even in San Diego traffic I don't heat up, I run headers to.

OK.....just looked at their web site. Will definitely give one a try if I still have a problem. Thanks for the idea

Yesterday we took the radiator out and back flushed it to be sure none of the crud from the block got caught inside. Must have mad a difference since it now idles at 181 degrees ... Happy truck!

Your original problem of 195 degrees may have been caused by trapped air in the system that was alleviated by what you have done recently. I'm happy for you getting it to run cooler! I can't count how many times I have taken something apart, found nothing wrong, put it back together and everything was back to normal. When that happens, I still take full credit for my masterful mechanical abilities. Ya, right!

I had the same thought Carl. Could be but also back flushed the (new) rad which was installed before we cleaned the block and head.

Truck home yesterday and he's very happy. Runs all day at 180 and lots more power due to valve replacement. Long journey but finally there

"1000cfm! My farts push more air"

And now we know why you always work alone Hollow 65.