The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop engine clean up recommendations???

Hello I am doing a rebuild on a 1953 that I have in Italy. Being in Italy means limited access to all things Chevy. The engine was running before I dismantled the truck. I am thinking to just clean it up, change what gaskets I can, and put it back in. Drive it until it won't go anymore. I am afraid that opening it up might be opening Pandora's box, and then I'll never finish.

My big question is: Can I take the head off, put on a new gasket, and put the head back on without needing to dismantle the whole rocker arm assymbly, etc?

Thanks

What size engine?

The rocker arm assembly will come off as one "unit". Then the head.

This is just my opinion....get the truck running and only fix "what is broken". My guess is that you may end up replacing the valve cover and side cover gaskets. I wouldn't mess with the head unless there turns up a mechanical need.
Get it running and then "listen" to what it tells you. If its not broken then why mess with it since you want to "drive it until it won't go anymore". That might turn out to be a long time. Adding a quart of oil ever once in a while is better than a rebuild if that's what happens.

Keep us posted on how things go and ask questions when you need to. Most folks here are a lot smarter than I am!!!

Thanks for the input. I often need someone to say STOP. Otherwise, I'll be down there polishing with a toothbrush, and never get to enjoy the thing.

I'll just change the obvious gaskets, and things that I know were leaking, and see how it goes.

What do you think about the Okie seal? Is this something that I should invest in from a preventive measure, or do you think as well that it is better to get it going and make the modification if necessary?

The okie is a strange character. If you will use the search feature here I'm sure Okie Bushing will bring up hours of reading and education. Personally I've been lucky and never had to deal with one. Still, get it running, then stopping, and it will tell you what it needs.

This will get you started.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=485551


Shaanxi, if you do not have a service manual, you will find the online manuals a big big help.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

I agree with them, I pulled side cover off that was leaking to my surprise not much carbon, then that lead to oil pan leak that needs gasket, then looking up into everything looks fairly clean. Just hoping the rear seal is good I'm not planing on pulling transmission. Bottom of oil pan had less than 1/2 inch of sludge in it with possible very fine metal dust. She smoked a little on start up but is running just fine. Just thought I'de share.

Thanks guys. I always appreciate the input. I will do as you guys suggest. I will just keep cleaning up the engine. I'll not pull the harmonic balancer, with the risk that it might be a more difficult job once in the truck, and I'll just replace misc seals that I have to replace anyway, and that must be done. I'll get it in and running, and then see what I got.

Keep ya all posted.

Shaax... since you are out of country, and parts are expensive due to shipping costs, etc. Try to restrain yourself a little more than you would if you were in KC. Been there done that so many times. If you are like me, there is this rust right here.. so lets clean that up... but there is this fender with rust behind it... lets clean that up too.. next thing you know, your truck is completely apart. Now you have a totally different set of questions. Problem is, you are out of the country and everyone knows the Italians don't know crap about cars. LOL! So, good luck with your project but like I said, be careful. This can of worms is super size! Achip knows what he's talking about!

Shaanix, if gaskets are that hard to get there then how hard, and expensive, is it to get a big tube of gasket maker???

I'm only speaking for my self here but I use the 3M GREY color stuff a lot of times instead of gaskets. Just recently I used ONLY the grey stuff on my original rear end. Both sides, and it works great.
It just may be and alternative to gaskets in some locations such as side covers and valve covers?? Just depends on what you can get on that side of the ocean.

Thanks guys. I have bought (and transported) most of the replacement gaskets. I 'then' thought later that maybe I was opening a can of worms by taking the various pieces off of the engine. So, I'll hang on to the gaskets that I don't need, get the thing going, and deal with the problems as the arise, as opposed to being proactive to potential problems.

Anyone know a good, dependable resource for buying specific bolts?

I know that there are hardware places, BUT as I have mentioned I am in the land of metrics, and need bolts that I haven't been able to locate, as of yet, on the usual reproduction parts websites.

I need two transmission bolts, as I learned that mine was being held on my just two bolts, and I need the motor mount bolts. I may need others later on, but for now, I know that I need those.

Thanks

Dilemma,

ok. I have the engine out, cleaned up, and am replacing the water pump gaskets, etc before remounting, and painting the block.

When cleaning the frame there was a lot of oil soaked dirt on under the front support, and on the left side of the engine.

Left side: The oil lines were very bad, and I assume that oil was leaking and running down from the oil can and lines. Was it wicking to the front support area? Or do I need new timing gear cover / front seals?

I have all of the seals and gaskets, BUT.....reading through all of the literature and posts that I can, I feel a bit out of my league. I don't have any special tools, and don't want to risk braking something, or making matters worse. It seems that an incorrect installation of the front seal, risks destroying the newly installed seal.

So.....I am planning on changing the real main seal.....I'll attempt changing the top also as advised by Oly. I'll put in a new oil pan, valve cover seal as well.

But...I think that I will cop-out on the front seal, and see how it goes. Can anyone comment on this approach?

Thanks.....often I think we need reassurance when feeling around in the dark!

Steven

Well had a little time to work on the truck today. I wanted to change out the rear main seal while I had the engine out of the truck and on the stand.

I had ordered two sets of rear main seals, as past experience with other trucks was hit and miss. I thought that I had ordered the neoprene, but low and behold it was two sets of the old type.

I followed Ole's suggestions on raising the crankshaft so as to replace also the upper. I could see that at least for the distance I could comfortably raise the crankshaft, it was going to be a bear to get those old seals in place on the upper side.

Fortunately, in a lower seal kit that I had bought, there were the neoprene seals....they went in very easily. I think that I wouldn't have even needed to separate the crankshaft if it weren't to get the old one out.

Unfortunately, a crankshaft journal bolt had a broken lock washer, and I'll have to find one of those.

However, overall I was pleased with the seal replacement, and just hope that it holds.