The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors New glass installlation tips

Fellow bolters.....
I have a 1950 3600 which is in the body shop. I purchased all new glass and seals from Jim Carter. I want to make sure the guy doing the body work does the glass installation correctly do I do not have any leaks. He mentioned he will use something that 'flows' to where any spaces might be. It's not a silicone or urethane or glue.

Anyway, can someone give me any tips or suggestions on what works? I'm sure he knows how to put the seals and glass in.

Thanks.

bump...

Your side glass needs no sealer, obviously.
WIth new rubber your guy will probably use dish soap or canola oil to coax
the fitted glass (no sealers in the channels) into their respective
pinch welds on the body. My experience is that these usually fit VERY tightly
when everything is new & will need no additional. If, after a water test,
it is determined that further sealing is required then it could be applied
carefully under the lips of the rubbers.
Others may have different experience.

My thoughts are the same as squire's. No special sealer is needed unless leaks are present. If the side windows have metal frames around them, you will need setting tape between the frame and window, but this will seal it completely.

When I installed the back window in my 46 I didn't use any urethane, just soapy water, a plastic glass installation spoon, persistence, and patience. It doesn't leak either.

3M bedding and glazing compound #08509, doesn't harden, excess wipes off.

Must be nice not to have to worry about a vent window. Everybody spends a lot of money doing a "one piece window" on newer trucks when Chevy had been there, done that.

Thanks for all the replies. I believe he is using something that does not harden that flows to find any openings. I'll ask him what it is. I'll be it the bedding stuff mentioned above. I believe he knows what he's doing, however I'm following the old adage.. TRUST every, but VERIFY!

David,the guys seem to have all the bases covered,the main complaint I hear about AD trucks is the front windshield seal,it's unlikely you'll need any sealant in the rear cab glass.

The main problem seems to be getting accurately cut glass. The seal requires the glass size to be correct to 'push' it out to correspond with the aperature.
I can't vouch for Jim Carters glass but like the guys have already mentioned I would fit the glass 'dry' and then water test it,you'll soon find out if it needs any additional help!
Most likely offenders will be the lower windshield radii.
As 64fleetside already mentions 3M do a non setting glazing sealant specifically for this purpose and while it doesn't exactly flow,you can apply it once the glass is in should it be required and unlike some silicon products,wont hurt your paint

I always attach windshield rubber to the windshield and keep it in a hot place for a long time to "train" the rubber to the glass. The rubber has been "trained" to be rolled up in a bag for a long time, maybe in hot places. But I've only done TF's , so far. And only Steele Rubber, which has not been in a big hot metal cargo container for a month with 900 pounds of other stuff on top of it.