The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Brake bleeding

Have just installed the new cylinders in the right rear.
Do I really have to start bleeding Hydrovac, then left rear, then right rear ?
Shopmanual says so, but my gut feeling says start with the longest distance tube first, meaning right rear first, then left rear. If no air comes from left rear, why bleed the hydrovac ?

How would you do ?

I do it the way the Shop Manual describes.

No shortcuts? Crap
I'll just do the same. Startign with Hydrovac, both ports in the right order. Then the left rear, then right rear.

With what little time it would take to bleed the wheel cylinders, why not try that 5 minute task first? You should know pretty quick if you still have air by the feel of the pedal!

If that doesn't work then go by the steps laid out in the shop manual!

It makes the most sense to bleed the longhest line first. Taking any shortcuts always seem to find their way back to your butt ans snap at you. So forget the book and do it the right way.

Hi,Lastchance! "We" started with the right-rear,on the '59 Viking,BUT,the hydrovac was eliminated. I'd go with '53's advice,and try that first. You may have to bleed the hydrovac,but it seems logical,to bleed the rears first,then the hydrovac. finish with the L.F. wheel. We had to bleed the entire system systematically,several times,before accomplishing satisfactory pedal pressure. Just be patient.

Yes but I had pressure everywhere wnd no air, just changed the right rear cylinders, so I don't think air travel all over the pipes.

But we'll see, I will bleed it tonight, caught a nasty cold so haven't been able to proceed.

Another thing, how happy do you get when you receive these kinds of mails ? VERY !!

Ulf,

Just a verification that parts arrived and its all good?

Geoff

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It seems logical (and makes the best sense) to do the bleeding in the order described in the Shop Manual.

I do not know about later brake systems, but I could not get the brakes to feel right on my 54/55 GMC 2-ton with hydrovac when I went through the "regular"/logical non-hydrovac progression. After reading the Shop Manual and going through the procedure described, the brakes were much better. After later using a pressure filler as recommended in the the Shop Manual, the brakes were even better.

Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but it seems like he just replace one wheel cylinder on the right rear. Just bleed that cylinder and see how things feel.

No need to bleed the whole system if you just replaced on wheel cylinder!

Randy,

If fluid did not drain back to a joint in the lines, you might be OK. A quick bleed and a pedal test would answer your question.

I think if a person were to actually measure the length of the brake line that goes from the hydrovac to each wheel you would see why the shop manual lists the order for each wheel as the length to the front is longer than to the rear.

That's what I've always done. But, only if the master was above the slave cylinders.

I changed both cylinders at the right rear only.

The correct order according to the Shop Manual is:
Hydrovac point 1 and 2. Then LEFT REAR, RIGHT REAR, then LEFT FRONT and last RIGHT FRONT.

I removed the air on right rear, tested left and hydrovac points and no air anywheere. Still the pedal drops first time, but I haven't adjusted the brakeshoes yet, will do that tomorrow morning.

Se the picture from the shop manual below here:

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x264/uffeg/20130817_175503_zpsfcd15062.jpg

Having the brake shoes adjusted makes a big difference

HOLY CRAP my memory sucks !!!
When I changed the master cyl and hydrovac I followed the Shop Manual, saying you should use pressure bleeding.
Just rememberd I took the old master cylinder cap and drilled out a hole in it an then took a spare tire, added 20 psi pressure and attached a hose in between.
Then I bled all corners and the hydrovac without assistance.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x264/uffeg/20130817_215906_zpse8aae998.jpg

Now with my memory recovered I will do another attempt tomorrow

now there's a tip worth remembering - and worth adding to the Tech Tips

Bill

I bought a pressure bleeder for my COE and it helps on any vehicle.

A while ago several people posted descriptions of their home-made pressure bleeders.

I checked the shoes and adjusted them accordingly.
Then bled all around.

Breaks are solid like a rock now.
I will go to a testcenter this afternoon to see if I have full power on both rear.

Went to test center.
VICTORY IS SWEET !!
Brakes are PERFECT

I have a 59 chevy Spartan 100, I rebuilt the master and installed a new power booster and three new rubber lines. im having a hard time getting any kind of pedal, where can I find a manual on this truck for bleeding the brakes or some good advise.

Willowbeen,

Welcome to the Stovebolt!

Did you replace ALL of the steel lines? They rust out from the inside...do you have a small leak in one of them or at a wheel cylinder?

Did you adjust the brake shoes? If they are to far away from the drum you have to pump the pedal...

Are you bleeding the system in the right order starting at the Hydrovac...do a search here, this has been covered many times.

Lastchance towing posted the bleeding order in this very thread...check it out about 8 posts before your's if this link doesn't work.

http://s185.photobucket.com/user/uffeg/media/20130817_175503_zpsfcd15062.jpg.html

The 1959 Chevy Truck Shop Manual should have all the info you need.

Mike B

I can scan any page from the Shop Manual if needed.
What kind of brakes do you have Willowbeen ?

I have a 1959 chevy Spartan 100 I have manually bled them and power bled them and I still can push the pedal to the floor, took the rear tires off and drum and I can see the shoes moving some. I replaced all rubber lines and the power booster and rebuilt the master cylinder. the only worries I have is I honed the master out a little and I get some fluid leaking out the boot on the master, not much though. ive been trying to free up the adjusters and so far I can only get 1 to move on the left wheel . there is two wheel cylinders on each wheel.

I don't think you will ever have good brakes with a master cylinder that is leaking any amount of fluid, the adjusters should be free so you can adjust the shoes. Solve those issues and you will have good brakes.

the thing that's unusual is the pedal wont return very fast

I did get three out of the four rear adjusters free and adjusted the rear brakes. how do you adjust the front brakes?

willowbeen,

MC's are not available for our big TF trucks, but you can send it out and have it sleeved and rebuilt. I've had good luck with Sierra Specialty Automotive, they are very reasonable. Contact Joe Way at [email protected] for more info.

Did your pedal return spring break?

Mike B

The front brakes should have an eccentric adjustment bolt for each shoe on the back of the backing plate at 3 and 9 o'clock. To adjust the passenger side turn the front bolt CCW and the rear bolt CW to tighten the shoe to the drum (reverse the CCW and CW on the drivers side). Jack the wheel up and adjust the front shoe to heavy drag and then back it off to light drag...repeat for the rear shoe.

Mike B

The pedal return spring pulls the pedal back but the master is not coming back too fast. do you think the spring inside the master is broken? Thanks for the MC rebuilding contact and the front adjuster info.

You probably have so much air in the system it's not acting right. Get the MC rebuilt and start the bleeding process over again.

Mike B