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| | | Forums66 Topics128,122 Posts1,056,331 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 127 | Link to Photobucket pictures: http://s950.photobucket.com/user/PatriotColt/library/69%20Chevy%20C10Hello Stovebolters. I have a question, not about my 1960 Chevy Viking, but about my 69 Chevy C10. I was hearing some "squeaking" in the driveline as I was pushing her out of the garage, and when I crawled under her to check, the squeaking was coming from the driveshaft center support. That is the piece directly under the front of the truckbed and it supports the axle about mid-way between the tranny and axle. After jacking her up and crawling under, I found that the rubber bushing inside this center support (which the drive axle goes through) has about 1/2 inch wobble from left to right, and up and down. This center support was replaced only about 2000 miles ago, and I am wondering if there is supposed to be a 1/2" clearance to allow for the wobble, or is the axles supposed to fit tight and have no play at this point? I squirted oil on it to eliminate the squeaking, but want to know if this needs replacing once again. Many thanks. DC/Virginia
Last edited by dwightviking1960; 08/10/2013 7:05 PM. Reason: Added pictures
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| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Shouldn't have any wobble. If you have a good Driveline shop in town you may want to consider going to a one piece driveshaft. (I work part time at a driveline/drivehaft company and a lot of folks do the one piece. I guess it kind of depends on what your plans for using it is. Anyone working on the driveline should be sure its timed or as some say indexed...or some say phased...and balanced on a good machine. "Tom" has been working on drivelines for over 30 years and its amazing what I've seen him do. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 127 | Achipmunk....thanks for the reply and information. If you looked at the pic I linked to, it shows this center support. The rubber bushing in it rotates with the driveshaft. Is it supposed to remain fixed and not rotate with the driveshaft? If so, what prevents the rubber bushing from rubbing and getting hot as the driveshaft spins?
Your advice of a one piece driveshaft is a great idea, but my wallet is way too thin right now for that. I will have to do some reading about timing, indexing, phased, etc. regarding the driveshaft....I never heard of that before. You definately the expert regarding this stuff.
Thanks again.
Keep the rusty classics going.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,098 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,098 | The center bearing should remain fixed and not rotate in the rubber. There is a good chance that the bearing is frozen therefore it has to turn somewhere. It's unfortunate that it is relatively new but there a lot of bad new parts being sold. Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 127 | rfs56trk...Fred.....Thanks for the info. OK, so there is actually a bearing that rides over the driveshaft.....now, that makes sense. Yep, the mechanic probably used the cheapest type he could find. I see that it has a couple spots where the outer metal shell "punches" inward on the rubber.....I may be able to just push those tabs in to get it to lock instead of rotating. Worth a try since it is so new.
See ya.
Keep the rusty classics going.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | ...if it has as much wobble as you mentioned I doubt the pushing the tabs down will help much as far as vibration goes.... A new center bearing and "collar" is in order. Good luck.... and also check around your area. *** Most true driveline shops will have at least a few "old" or trade-in driveshafts and may have the length you want for a one piece. Its worth asking and if it has good yokes/u-joints on it you can get out for probably what they will want to put a new bearing and collar on it....unless you do it your self. Good luck. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 127 | Achipmunk.....Thanks again for the info. The good thing is that I dont drive the ole C10 much, so this is a repair that isnt critical and I can get to perhaps this winter......unless I decide to hit the dragstrip like the Oklahoma guy who races his 70 Chevy "Farm Truck" that is a close match to mine......check him out on Youtube under "Sleeper Farm Truck". Its amazing seeing that c10 launch up in the air, and winning most races.
Keep the rusty classics going.
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