The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Ground for gas tank sending

Hello all,
Should the gas tank sending unit be grounded to the cab or to the chassis?

Thanks
Billy

both/all
ground it to the tank thru one of the sender's 5 mounting bolts.
from there ground it to the cab or take the wire down that same gas line hole and ground it to the frame.
somewhere the cab is/should be grounded to the frame.

As Jim said, it should already be grounded.

If your tank grounds are iffy (due to rust, corrosion, or other) then you can bring a wire down from one of the mounting bolts and ground it straight to the frame that way.

I need to rewire mine (The wire is bad -- and to add insult to injury -- bare in places! Half the time there's no gas or a full tank!) and I'm thinking about grounding it to the frame with a seperate wire just to be sure.

But, then again, I'm anal retentive about that sort of thing.

Thanks guys,

One more question, What are the style of mounting screw that are used in the sending unit? My 59 has the hour glass shaped instead of a Phillips or flathead. The same kind that are used to mount the cowl vent.

Can you buy this type of bit at a parts store?

Chevy Duty sells the driver with the hour shaped head.

I just found them on the internet.
"Clutch head drivers"

10x32x1/2'' or 5/8'' if memory serves me today
ground to the top of one of those
run another ground to the cab /frame from that point
don't trust the gas tank just sitting in the cab's cradle to be a good ground

get rid of the clutch head screws.
some like them and they have/serve a purpose, for restoration.
they can work just fine but for me that means carring 4 more screwdrivers in my limited tool box...... naugh
my .02

www.mcmastercarr.com sells clutch head bits and screws. Delivery has been very quick in my experience. 3577 pages of hardware and shop related stuff.

Same reason they have Torx,E-Torx,Torx+, and all of thoce other gawd-awfull fasteners with funny heads, they don't want the average guy/gal or non-dealer mechanic to be able to work on them.

Another THANKS to fellow Stovebolters !!

My project for this week was to remove and check the gas gauge / float mechanism. After a total rewire with a made from scratch harness it was the last of the dash items that didn’t work. After reading this I started thinking that when I had removed the tank and cleaned around it there was no sign of any ground wire. And…guess what ?? I missed that little ground symbol on the wiring diagram. So I went right out into the 98 degree garage and installed a temporary ground now even my gas gauge works!! Thanks again

I went to the ultimate extreme when grounding my sending unit. At NAPA they sell a two conductor wire encased in a gray outer covering. The red wire is my sender wire and the black is the ground wire which I hooked to the back of my gauge cluster. My gauge used to show having more gas than I actually had, causing me to run out of gas when the gauge showed a quarter tank. I wanted to eliminate this problem so I have the sending unit grounded to the actual gauge cluster.