The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Advice on cleaning a 235 block before painting

Hello all,
My name is Greenman Wood, and I am the very happy owner of "Beatrice", my 1961 Apache 10, with the original 235. I'm currently renewing all the engine gaskets, and have the head at the machine shop, the HB and timing cover removed, as well as the draft tube, water pump, lifter cover and oil pan. I don't have the ability to remove the engine, so what's the best way to clean/prep the block for painting? Since everything's open, is it okay to decrease and hose down the block? If degreaser and water get in the lifter and cam area, will I be doing damage? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Greenman

Personally, I would seal the top of the block especially over the piston tops and plug the draft tube hole,fuel pump opening and the distributor hole. I would put the lifter cover back on sans gasket.
Then use Gunk or similar cleaner, scrub brushes, power wash or just a strong hose water stream. Let it air dry and maybe clean again if necessary. Once it's dry you can spray paint it with easy to buy high temp paint in an aerosol can. But, after complete assembly run fresh oil for awhile and drain that, than add new oil. Anyway, that's what I did.

I just cleaned and painted my 250ci. I had it out of the donor truck and on an engine stand, so it was easy to get in all the "corners". I used a putty knife, wire brush, then a stiff bristle brush to scrape off any clumps of oil and grease. I even spread some loose dirt onto some of the really greasy areas so that the dirt + grease makes it clump up. Then the wire brush can knock it off in clumps instead of smear it around. Lastly, I used a toothbrush and kerosene in a spray bottle followed by a Dawn dish detergent wash and clean water rinse.
You can see what things looked like.

Before cleaning #1

Before cleaning #2

Clean but some old engine paint remains.

After a little paint.

I've used dawn and a stiff bristled brush to clean things up and that worked well. I stripped an entire tractor with about 4 cans of oven cleaner once. A power washer is handy too. There's no magic way to doing it. It just takes time and elbow grease.

I appreciate everyone's comments, but there's still a point of confusion for me. With the lifter cover off, there's a fair amount of sludge stuck on the block wall just above the lifters. I'd really like to clean that all up too, but since the lifters, cam, crank, etc are still in the block, will washing that area do damage to those parts? The oil pan is off, so I'm thinking that anything that got down into that area should just flow out the bucket I have under there. What I don't is if I should avoid getting degreaser/water in those areas at all.

If you are referring to the area under the side cover I would pull the lifters keeping them in order in storage. Then plug ALL
the lifter bores with shop rags and hand scrape the sludge off as best you can. Vacuum out the sludge than spray the area with
aerosol brake cleaner until it's clean enough for you. Pull the rags, spray inside the lifter bores with the brake cleaner, wipe the bores clean than clean and lubricate the lifters as you reinstall them in order. Your are correct that any liquid runoff will likely run out the bottom of the block, but not all solids.The least thing you want is for any solids to plug oil galleys restricting or shutting off oil flow.
A compressed air gun is useful in blowing out loose junk too.

Thanks everyone for the great advice. I'm confident moving forward now. Can't wait to share the rebuilt engine with you all. Best of luck in all your projects!

Greenman.

A good rule for scraping off dirt etc. Try to use a plastic or wood scraping tool. Anything like a screw driver or putty knife will scratch what ever your trying to clean, unless you are super careful. It doesn't look good or professional if you scratch and gouge parts, use a nonpowered wire brush if needed. Especially on the rough sand cast part of the cast iron. Never use the powered scotchbrite pads on any machined surfaces, or for that matter on any engine, transmission, rear end parts at all, as they do remove metal like sand paper only its not even.

I don't see a problem cleaning and using water in the area behind the lifter plate, either leave the lifters in or plug holes like the one guy said. If you use water to clean inside hope full its a warm day, and don't go too long getting it back together and running.
After cleaning even spraying a bit of WD40 or what ever you like, to lube and rust protect.

.... I use Kerosene for a cleaner at times in this situation. Just another option I guess.

I like using Brake Kleen on greasy things that will be painted rather than petro based cleaners - and of course a proper paint-prep grease and wax remover

Bill

Bill, your absolutely right about non-petroleum based cleaners. Instead of staying with the topic of cleaning before PAINTING I let my mind wander to cleaning the crud inside the covers!! I guess I need to start reading a bit slower!

BrakeKleen sounds like a great idea. I do have Marine Clean and Prep and Ready from the folks at POR-15.