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| | | Forums66 Topics128,136 Posts1,056,431 Members48,441 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 1 Moderated | | Moderated Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 1 | I have a 54 Chevy Belaire in France. My problem is my leaking rear main bearing seal.(split seal). I was told there are no seals available and that I must use a newer seal from 55-62 engine which is a different size. The crankshaft must be machined down to fit the newer seal. My question is what size do I cut the crankshaft to fit the newer seal? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Don't listen to who ever told you that. 1940-62 used the same seal. 1956-62 engines can have the rope seal replaced with a two piece neoprene seal. There is a one piece seal conversion but that takes machining the block. I would recommend using a Best Gasket brand rope seal for your 54.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 135 | | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 45 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 45 | Like to jump in here. Are these rear main seals available at NAPA, or where should I look for one. I assume there is a front seal also. I have a 54 235 that is leaking, I think it the pan gasket, but thought I may as well replace the rear main seal. How tuff is this?
awk | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 45 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 45 | Pre'68 Dave, Thanks. So that yellow thing is a tool? The front should be easy that just the timing cover seal, right. I'm new to the 235 6 cyl.
awk | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | The yellow thing is a razor knife and the brown thing is a guide for cutting the ends correctly. The only thing the kit tells you to do that I don't is to drill the cap and pin it so the seal does not move. I don't like that idea. The front seal leak could be more from a worn seal surface on the balancer. They sell a speedi-sleeve to cover the worn area. It is the same as small blocks so most parts stores have them in stock. The front seal is a standard lip seal. I see a lot of leaking blamed on front seals when it turns out to be the fuel pump. There are two places fuel pumps leak. They can leak from a loose pivot shaft or more commonly someone used lock washers on the bolts. The oil then wicks out the threads and through the split in the washer. This can leak a lot of oil.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 45 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 45 | Thanks a bunch Dave. I'll look at that tonight. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 306 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 306 | dave do you recommend NOT using lock washers on the fuel pump? without them might they protrude into the block far enough to hit a cam lobe?
rolf
1963 c10 | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Being the pump is aluminum I always use flat washers to keep the bolt heads from digging in.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | |
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