The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre '56 Chevy 3200 step side just purchased

Hey all, I just wanted to introduce myself. I am from ROTTENCHESTER NY !
I bought the truck last month and have more fun with it and bought like crazy at the Carlisle show back in April. I had a '55 belair when I was 18 but this thing is so awesome I can feel the oil in my veins flowing!
I haven't figured out how to post pics yet but it's a 235. W/ three on the tree and it had a tranny swap in 2001 to an S10 5 speed.
I plan on driving it this summer and pulling it in this winter to do some restoration and modification.
I picked up a front and rear suspension from an '84 Corvette at the Carlisle show and all kinds of chrome. I am hoping the wealth of knowledge on this awesome site will help me achieve my dream. I am 57 soon to turn 58 and this little honey is 57 also. Kind of like a match made in Detroit!
Being a retired GM employee seems fitting I can [censored] off all those rice driving SOB's with some real American class.
Looking forward to chatting with folks, Ken

Welcome, and here is something to think about.
Would someone that just bought a rare painting cut it out of the picture frame, "just because they like it that way" and chop it down to a much smaller size to fit in a much smaller frame?
Remember these trucks are no longer being manufactured, yes some replacement parts are and thats questionable too. The frames are not being reproduced and likely never will, unless I win one of the power ball deals. I can't see ruining anymore frames, there are lots of already ruined frames slash trucks for sale dirt cheap on craigslist, you know someone that had to do it how they like it. Doing that sort of thing really is going to ruin it for any future generations that would like to truely restore one of these beutiful trucks. I just wish people that have to do those suspension mods would build a frame from scratch or, use a more modern frame with the suspension already in existance.
Sorry these trucks need some kind of advocate since they can't talk for themselves.

Ken, GCFD112, welcome to the Stovebolt and your right. This is an awesome site with tons of knowledge and great folks willing to share it.
I like the task force style but have never been fortunate enough to find one when I was looking for projects. At least its already 12 volt

Its your truck so you are entitled to do what you want. I prefer the some modern upgrades but there is never a question of what it is I'm driving down the road.
Good luck, and be sure to post up some pics when you can. Use the appropriate forums for questions and you will get plenty of responses. (Well, the weekends are slow sometime because we have to take the little ladies out and keep them happy)

Welcome to the site,Ken.
I fact that you want to modify and update your truck is a great idea.to be able to travel comfortably on freeways at posted speed allows you to have a lot more fun.However,you will encounter some intolerance to that on this site.I look forward to seeing your progress.
Boyd

Hi Ken, welcome to the site. Just remember that all these responses are simply opinions and you go ahead and do what you like. We all learn from each other. I also happen to like them unmolested as much as possible. I stay away from the big cities with my truck. Have fun with your truck.

Leo

Think of it this way, If Chevrolet had the technology to build the trucks with the suspension, drivetrain, ect... they would have. Why drive something that is uncomfortable or lacks the horsepower that you can have with a more modern engine? Paying homage do the style of the vehicle while updating it is simply a way of keeping these vehicles relevant and practical.

They had the technology back then, the cars all had independant suspensions in front. They elected to build a truck like a truck. They aren't cars they are TRUCKS. If you look at any real truck that is brand new off the line today you will see the same frame and suspension features that the older 50's pickups and larger trucks had in the day. And there is nothing uncomfortable about them, cept bias ply flat spots.
As far as power? Unless your pulling a 14k pound trailer there is plenty of power, yes the rear gears need a jump up in ratio for more speed and brakes need an upgrade in the master cylinder area, thats about it.

I want to thank each and everyone of you for your awesome feedback and warm welcome. You have helped me see that I should treat this gem with the respect and patience it deserves.
That being said I'd like to do it right and produce a numbers matching restoration.
With the money I have already invested into it and I am going to do it right.
Please forgive my haste.
I have a predicament that I am hoping someone could help me with.
I recently started the engine and after warming for a few minutes I went to let out the clutch it started running very rough and flooded.
Letting it rest for some ten minutes I tried to start it again only to find it difficult and impossible to do so.
I ask for some advice from friends and it was suggested to rebuild to carb.
Reason being? It's 57 years o.d and had been sitting for six months and with the ethanol enhanced gas it probably had varnish and other impurities caked in it

After a complete cleaning and rebuild to spec I put the newly rebuilt unit on top of the manifold and tried to start it and wow it started right up and ran like a champ for about thirty seconds then flood city!
Gas everywhere and stalled. It keeps doing the same thing. Gas pour out of the tube over the Venturi tube.
Anyone have any ideas?

Since everyone does not visit here in the Welcome Centre I'd suggest you post these questions in the ENGINE FORUM. The guys there have lots of knowledge and Carb King may even weight in if he see's your post.

The key to getting info and such here is to post the question in the most appropriate forum. Example: driveline questions in the Driveline Forum and for body work it'd be the Paint and Body Forum.
I'm sure you will get some "dead on" answers for your questions.
I should have just moved your post but I'' let you just ask it over in the engine dept.

Good luck. I'm sure your not the only one that has had this very problem.......Alvin

Six months is not long enough to create varnish in the tank.

A fuel system consists of a tank to store the gas, a pickup tube to extract the gas from the tank, usually combined with a float to indicate how much fuel is in the tank, lines to convey the fuel from the tank to the engine, a pump to suck the fuel from the tank and push it into the carburetor, a filter to keep contaminants out of the engine and the carburetor, which feeds the fuel to the engine using a system of meters to feed the correct amount of fuel depending upon the demands of the engine for fuel.

Only two of these components can affect flow; the pump and the carburetor. The pump is mechanically driven by a lobe on the camshaft As the engine rotates, an arm is alternately depressed and released, causing a pumping action.

Unless the pump has been replaced with an electric one, the chances of it creating too much pressure (and thus flooding the engine by overwhelming the carburetor) are fairly low. If the fuel pump is electric, then that could very well be your problem. It could be over pressuring the fuel forcing the metering valve on the carburetor open despite the float.

When fuel is pumped to the carburetor, it enters through a valve that is opened and closed by a float. Gas is held in the main chamber(s) of the carb. As it is fed to the engine, the level drops and the float with it, and the valve opens to allow more gas to enter to the chamber(s).

The purpose of the chamber(s) is storage, nothing more. It holds enough gas to ensure that the engine can never be starved for fuel no matter how much demand it creates.

If the float is set incorrectly, gas can overflow and dump into the intake manifold, flooding the engine. And you will often see it coming up through the venturi tube, just as you describe.

From your description, it sounds as though the float is sticking so that the valve never closes. Take the top off the carb and inspect the float. Make sure that the pin that it rotates on doesn't have any burrs or isn't putting the float in a bind. Inspect the openings in the float that the pin goes through. Are they bent? Could they cause the float to hang?

WARNING: NEVER start the engine with the top off the carburetor. It is an extreme fire hazard!

Without gas in the carb, the float should move freely up and down without any feeling of restriction. With the carb assembled, you should be able to turn the carb upside down and then right side up and hear the float moving up and down to its stops.

Double check the float measurements. Carb kits usually have a chart that contains settings for multiple applications. Make sure you're using the measurements for the correct one. There should be two measurements - depth to empty and height to full.

The valve should have been a replacement part in the kit you bought. If it was not, check the valve for damage. Make sure that it will seal properly. You can do this by removing the float, manually holding the valve against its seat (don't put a lot of pressure on it) and blowing through the intake. If you can hear air, the valve needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the info my friend. I have taken your advise and gone through the whole rebuild all over again and to my lack of attention I found gas had filled one of the pontoons on the float mechanism.
Turns out their is a minute hole at the seam.
After some research I found out that I can extract the fluid out of it with a pan of hot water and some patience.
I'll be doing that ASAP ! Again thanks for the advice, regards, Ken

Or you could buy a replacement float.