The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline T5 installed now w/pics

Hello friends,
My last subject post was the t5 would no go in. Well, it's in. Here are some pics. I also made my crossmember work too as you wil see.
Now I know I am new to this truck thing, but maybe my pics and comments might help others. The info on this site is Invaluable, and I am glad to be able to contribute. The trans is an s10 with electric speedo. I wanted the mech but hard to find and I got such a good deal on this one. Ratios are not what I wanted either. 4.03, 2.37, 1.49, 1.00, and .86.
I wanted the .72 od, but again, good deal. Really, I wanted for fitment and to try out. If all goes well, when I take 216 out and put in 235 I will get one with better od and mech tailshaft.
Ps) don't laugh at my gas pipe fittings shifter, it works...

Pics.... http://www.fiftee6.com/fiftee3.6/

Phil,
Very nice fabrication work. Also nice job on your website. Very well documented.

Thank you for sharing.

Also, I do have a question. In image 17, there is a view of the clutch adjusting rod in front of master cyl. At the 90 degree angle, it is held in with a cotter pin. Is there, and if so, where can I find the bushing, or what it would be that slips over that rod to take up the slack or play there?
Thanks David for the nice comment.

Phil;

Excellent pictures and write up. What did you do for the brake upgrade and rear end? Lots of excellent stuff. Can you post an o overall build up plan/recap?

ya know you can unbolt that shifter and put it in a shop press and straighten it like i did on my 46 and used the original s-10 chrome shift lever http://s629.photobucket.com/user/kurtdh519/media/4-12-12015.jpg.html

BUSHINGS? Try your local lawnmower shop! I have used Snapper rider nylon tie rod bushings for shift and clutch linkages and 30-06 and 9mm cases for peening into a hole to resize it. Bronze or brass hinge pin bushings can be used many other places, too. I even found a bronze bushing with about 5/16ths ID at Ace Hardware!
Let your imagination run!

Best wishes,

Les

Thanks for the post about the T5. That is next on my list for my 65 C10. It's going behind a 250ci.

I'm particularly interested in hearing your details regarding the hydraulic clutch modification. I'd decided to go with my factory mechanical clutch, but might change to hydraulic if your modification seems within my ability.

My mechanical clutch is on the DS. Does a 53 have a hydraulic clutch system from the factory?

I'm fortunate to be able to install my T5 and crossmember onto a bare frame. Setting up the eBrake might prove to be a challenge and I might need to remove the 65 eBrake bracket and convert to a 66 eBrake system.

Please feel free to send me a PM or whatever suits. I'd love to get more tips from you if possible.

Jay

I'd at least give this trans a test run before you ditch it for better ratio, may be a good fit. Also it depends upon your diff ratio, tire size etc. I'm running my T-5 and hardly ever get it into 5th with my high gears in back but still love the trans.

lugnutz.... ya know, you wont need an adapter plate if you are using a 250 engine and a t-5 transmission, it should bolt right up to the 250 bellhousing, they have the same bolt pattern

Just one question, how thick is the adapter plate? It looks to be about 1/2" thick. I built one for mine using 1/4" steel plate and had to cut a quarter inch off the input shaft. I also rebuilt the crossmember to lower the trans a little because I am using a later model 250 which is a little longer and had to cut the firewall. Lower helps get the bell housing out of the way.
Thanks,
Bob

Bob,
Here's a very good write-up about the T5 for the DIY guys. This guy used 1/2" stock. The spacers are available pre-made too.

Link = click here

Thanks for the reply!
That is an awesome link, spells out everything.
Thanks again,
Bob