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#942755 05/12/2013 8:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
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I have been many back threads to learn as much as I can on Big Bolts. I find comments about getting rid of antique split rims and tubes and adapting 8 bolt modern rims.

Why go through that work? If I install 8.25 R 20 radials on clean powder coated original rims (with radial tubes) I'm not going to touch them again for years or ever. The rolling diameter is stock so the gear ranges and speedometer all work as designed.

Don't know what I'm missing?

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I still use tube required tires on my old jalopies and I don't see anything wrong with them. I have operated over the road truck since 1964 and I made the switch to tubeless in the early 70's because they have a lot less flats and I made the switch to radials in the early 80's. But what I use on my linehaul equipment is a totally different story. I have replaced some RH5° Firestone wheels with the Goodyear type because they are safer. I was fascinated by trucks all during the 50'sm My father ran bobtails. But I wanted a semi and I finally bought one in 1964. I personally think 40's and 50's trucks look more original. Everyone has their own personal opinion. I like trucks to look like what I remember then looking like in the 1950's.
Even though tubeless was an option from the mid 50's, I never remember seeing a 22.5 until the late 1960's.

In fact I just recently bought a truck load of salvage at an auction in Dallas. Along with stuff for my semis, I bought 6 9.00Rx20 tires on open center wheels that came off of a wrecked school bus. I am going to replace the 10R22.5 on a 57 GMC 550 with the tube required tires because I think they will look better. Of course its like I tell people, "I dress my truck the way I like it, you dress yours like you like it."

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Powder coat will just be chipped of during the install process.


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
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I agree on keeping the split rims if they are not the RH5's. Also don't powder coat. Powder coating has it's place, but it's thick and chips easy. I have been thinking about this some also and I believe I will have my rims plated locally and then paint the exterior.

This way they won't rust on the inside and the plating will be more durable because it won't chip off as easy.

Just haven't located a zing plater yet. I may check into galvanizing, although it can be heavy in spots it shouldn't be as bad as powder coating!


Randy Domeck
Indianapolis Fabrications
rdomeck@me.com
Indianapolis, In. 46254
317-258-0039

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i dont see anything wrong with them either. just another bad rap because of a few bad apples. i have thousands of miles on mine and the way they came from the factory. after cleaning them up well. if there are no issues found with them and they're in usable condition just give them three coats of paint with a good brush and mini roller. it's low cost, easy to touch up and if you get a flat they'll need repainting anyway grin . as for plating them i dont see the need or the expense. im always complimented on how my wheels look. a painter i am not but i took extra time and care when doing my wheels and since i live on dirt they are holding up well from flying stones.

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Also remember, almost all folks who don't know the differences between wheels refer to the all the big truck rims as 'split' rims. Split rims themselves are dangerous. Lock ring rims are fine, no need to switch.

Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
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Originally Posted by Jim Sears
If I install 8.25 R 20 radials on clean powder coated original rims (with radial tubes)
If you go that route, make sure that you use tube type radial tires. running tubes in tubeless tires is asking for a failure.


Bill Burmeister
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Longbox55,

You can't get a tubeless type tire in 20"...ALL 20's are tube type and all 22.5's are tubeless (unless you add a tube for some reason).

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Hughesville, MD
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Gotcha, then it won't be an issue. thumbs_up


Bill Burmeister
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I'm still running splits on my truck (or the three piece locking rims). Replaced the front tires myself on the original rims! I cleaned and painted them while apart, but had to touch up after mounting because the paint chipped. On inflation of the rims I rapped two 3/8 log chains through the holes just for precaution but didn't have any trouble. But I will say if your rims are super rusted you might want some new ones. I had to swap rearends due to other issues and I winded up with a rearend that didn't match my original rims (hub was different size) So I had to run some not so good 3-piece lockers. I was coming home one day with 2000lbs of concrete mix on the rear axle and BOOM!!! One of my rear rims blew apart. Nice to have a dually though I just drove home!


1947farmer

1947 2-Ton Chevy
Story in the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix in Photobucket
1977 3/4-ton
1985 2.5-ton
2- 1947 Allis WC
1- 1949 Allis allcrop
1- 1955 Allis WD-45
1- 1976 Allis 7040

"If it ain't broke you ain't trying"
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Yes, agreed, but once again, in this thread, I'll ask you guys how fast would you travel safely on them?


When I yield to Him, it's amazing how peaceful and enjoyable life is meant to be.

1947 Chevy COE
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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I travel as fast as the truck is able to go. Loaded or empty I have two trucks with three piece wheels and one with two piece wheels. If they're assembled properly you can go as fast as you can handle the truck

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Up until the mid 70's, my entire fleet was on tube required wheels with 2 or 3 piece wheels. Back in those days we dropped off a hill 80 to 90 mph to get a run at the next hill. Speed has nothing to do with multi piece wheels.

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A lot of 80's and 90's tractor trailers and medium duty trucks still had 3 piece rims and people run these 65 to 80mph. I've had my 85 2.5 ton with splits going 60mph. With the overdrive in my 47 tuck I've been able to hit 60mph with no issues too. MY badly rusted rim blew apart going 15mph around a curve... Speed is not an issue as long as your rims are in good shape.


1947farmer

1947 2-Ton Chevy
Story in the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix in Photobucket
1977 3/4-ton
1985 2.5-ton
2- 1947 Allis WC
1- 1949 Allis allcrop
1- 1955 Allis WD-45
1- 1976 Allis 7040

"If it ain't broke you ain't trying"
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Posts: 1,972
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I went had one piece rims made up because my lock ring wheels were so rusted they were unusable. I gave up on trying to find a good set of replacements. Places that had used rims had tires on them and I didn't want to pay for the rims, pay for the shipping and get some in the same shape as my rusted out ones. I do have the benefit of not having guys say they won't work on the rims too. I had to take my rims down to Washington state to even have them disassembled. They could only get one apart and that took hours.


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton
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Crenwelge, was shooting the dips.

By the By Cooker Tire has the ability to get 10:22's made in the US for about 420 $, I have a set of steers on my 53 Peterbilt and they are a real nice tire, they may be a little big for most guys here but some may need them.

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My COE runs 50 to 60mph on the stock rims on the fwy, have not had any issues thus far. About 10,000 miles, it well go faster. You just need a real good road and better nerves than I've got :-)


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