Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,089 Posts1,056,141 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 | Hi all. Anybody know where to find a"T" brake junction block to replace the one that sits in front of the battery compartment? The one that sits on passenger side frame rail and joins the hard line from the master to the front right and the rear brake line. It seems to be the ONLY brake part that is not available repro, and I couldnt find a match at NAPA either...
52 3100 project 54 3100 / 3112 ice cream truck, next project
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I may be a little confused at what your needing but I think you will find what you want here.
http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/index.asp?cat2=10512&path=1947+%2D+Early+1955+Truck+Parts%2FMechanical%2FBrakes%2FBrake+Division+Blocks+%26+Bolts
Also post a Parts Wanted add in the Swap meet. ITs a good bet you'll find one there..... I'll look, I may even have one in my pile.
Last edited by Achipmunk; 05/11/2013 10:16 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | Part number Item # MEE249 at Jim Carters. I think the other companies have them too. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 | nope, different animal.
The block I need for the front is for joining three hard lines, and none of the vendors have it.
That junction block that the vendors have, MEE249 at Jim Carter, is for the rear axle, where a soft hose meets two hard lines. For it to work in the front, it would need some sort of adaptor to fit the third hard line instead of a hose.
Last edited by wurlitzer46; 05/12/2013 1:19 AM.
52 3100 project 54 3100 / 3112 ice cream truck, next project
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | ...??...If above link is what your looking for your local auto parts store should be able to get it. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | I think you’re talking about the one that bolts to the frame rail?
MEE247 http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=MEE247&i=10512||||| Denny G
Last edited by Denny Graham; 05/12/2013 7:29 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 | Yes, it looks like those, except on the 52 3100, the fitting joins a 1/4" line to two 3/16" lines.
52 3100 project 54 3100 / 3112 ice cream truck, next project
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | I've thrown this out on several occasions, but since were're on the subject of brass fittings I'll try again, never know who when a whiz bang machinist might have joined up yesterday. Over the past decade or so I've been trying to figure out how to machine a female SAS J512 inverted flare seat in a brass block using a manual Bridgeport milling machine. Mill cutters are avalable to cut the basic shape, but the real trick comes in with the female thread. The thread realy has to go just about to the bottom of the bore. You say bottom tap? Well yes, a bottom tap is necessary but the problem is the 45° cone in the bottom that your special cutter formed. It appears that the center of the tap would need to be V'ed out to clear the cone. This would not be a problem with a CNC machine, there you could program it to single point a thread right to the bottom of the bore, but most of us don't have access to one of those. So, I can have a cutter ground to give me the shape I need but HOW IN THE WORLD CAN I CUT A THREAD IN THE TAP DRILLED HOLE??????
Denny G Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 05/12/2013 10:33 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I've thrown this out on several occasions, but since were're on the subject of brass fittings I'll try again, never know who when a whiz bang machinist might have joined up yesterday. Over the past decade or so I've been trying to figure out how to machine a female SAS J512 inverted flare seat in a brass block using a manual Bridgeport milling machine. Mill cutters are avalable to cut the basic shape, but the real trick comes in with the female thread. The thread realy has to go just about to the bottom of the bore. You say bottom tap? Well yes, a bottom tap is necessary but the problem is the 45° cone in the bottom that your special cutter formed. It appears that the center of the tap would need to be V'ed out to clear the cone. This would not be a problem with a CNC machine, there you could program it to single point a thread right to the bottom of the bore, but most of us don't have access to one of those. So, I can have a cutter ground to give me the shape I need but HOW IN THE WORLD CAN I CUT A THREAD IN THE TAP DRILLED HOLE??????
Denny G Sandwich, IL | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Thanks Tim, I went back and re-entered it, thought I punched the right button at the bottom but since it takes about a minute for everything to load now days I went off to make Ma her breakfast and dint check it. Don't expect anything to come of it anyway, it never has in the past. DG
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | Yes, it looks like those, except on the 52 3100, the fitting joins a 1/4" line to two 3/16" lines. I think Denny linked the fitting above ...Denny link... Take a look at the two pics or call JC to confirm the sizes | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 | They can be found. I think when you dig deep through NAPA, you can find it. Worst case, find a 1/4" T and two 1/4 x 3/16" adapters. Looks like they got it, tho', with the Jim Carter part. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Couldn't get that text to go to a hyperlink for some reason Gus, thanks.
That 3/16" reduction has been a problem before, the 3600 and up use 1/4" lines thru out. That unavailability and the fact that you can invest between $250 and $300 to replace all the brass on a rebuild is the driving force behind my desire to find the tooling needed to make my own fittings. Brass inverted flare fittings are really only meant to be used once. If you look closely at the seats in a used brass fitting that has had a steel tube crushed into it you’ll see that the cone is almost always distorted. So I taint gonna be any help to ya finding the ¼.x 3/16 x 3/16x ½”NC fitting. Wish I could make ya one but I’ve been trying to find out the secret for about a decade with no luck.
DG
Last edited by Denny Graham; 05/12/2013 11:25 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Denny, I have seen taps that were made just for threading inverted flare fittings, and they are just as you say, having a recess in the tip for the seat. I think it was Snap-On that had them, but I'm unable to find them in their online catalog. I won't see my local dealer until Friday, but if I remember, I'll ask if they still carry them, as I've been wanting to get a set of them myself.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 | I think Denny linked the fitting above ...Denny link... Take a look at the two pics or call JC to confirm the sizes Thanks guys, I will try that fitting that bolts to the frame, it looks like there is a hole for it. Meanwhile, while changing the lines, I just discovered a frame crack behind the cab mount. Ugh.
52 3100 project 54 3100 / 3112 ice cream truck, next project
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | That is all to common. I have welded more than a few.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Boy Bill, I'd really appreceate it if you would check. I haven't been able to find anything online. That's the missing link that's preventing me from making my own fittings once I get electric piped over to the mill.
Yep Dave, all to common. I've found a bunch on my '50 around the rear engine mount crossmember. I might add that whether you weld that crack or not wurlitzer46, you can stop it by drilling a hole at the end of the crack. That should be done even if you do get it welded. Denny G
Last edited by Denny Graham; 05/13/2013 7:40 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 127 | thanks guys. That crack runs across the top of the "C" and about an inch down vertically. Can a crack be welded ok from one side only? You can access it pretty well from underneath/inside and I hadnt planned on removing the cab.
52 3100 project 54 3100 / 3112 ice cream truck, next project
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | If you V out the crack as best you can and have the welder set right, so you get good penetration, it will work fine.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 | I think I have one of those "T" PM me if you are still looking for one. Mine had a bolt that attached through the frame on the passengers side and it is made so that a line from the master cylinder goes to it and then a line t's and goes to the left for the passenger wheel cylinder and the line from the right goes to the rear wheel cylinders.
I upgraded mine master cylinder to a dual power master cylinder.
It came off a 1956 chevy 3100
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen 56 Chevy 3100 | | |
| |