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Hi all.
Anybody know where to find a"T" brake junction block to replace the one that sits in front of the battery compartment? The one that sits on passenger side frame rail and joins the hard line from the master to the front right and the rear brake line.
It seems to be the ONLY brake part that is not available repro, and I couldnt find a match at NAPA either...


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I may be a little confused at what your needing but I think you will find what you want here.

http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/index.asp?cat2=10512&path=1947+%2D+Early+1955+Truck+Parts%2FMechanical%2FBrakes%2FBrake+Division+Blocks+%26+Bolts

Also post a Parts Wanted add in the Swap meet. ITs a good bet you'll find one there..... I'll look, I may even have one in my pile.

Last edited by Achipmunk; 05/11/2013 10:16 PM.

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Part number Item # MEE249 at Jim Carters. I think the other companies have them too.

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nope, different animal.

The block I need for the front is for joining three hard lines, and none of the vendors have it.

That junction block that the vendors have, MEE249 at Jim Carter, is for the rear axle, where a soft hose meets two hard lines. For it to work in the front, it would need some sort of adaptor to fit the third hard line instead of a hose.

Last edited by wurlitzer46; 05/12/2013 1:19 AM.

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...??...


If above link is what your looking for your local auto parts store should be able to get it.

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I think you’re talking about the one that bolts to the frame rail?

MEE247
http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=MEE247&i=10512|||||
Denny G

Last edited by Denny Graham; 05/12/2013 7:29 AM.

Denny G
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Originally Posted by DADS50
http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-178-brake-line-tees.aspx

If above link is what your looking for your local auto parts store should be able to get it.


Yes, it looks like those, except on the 52 3100, the fitting joins a 1/4" line to two 3/16" lines.


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I've thrown this out on several occasions, but since were're on
the subject of brass fittings I'll try again, never know who
when a whiz bang machinist might have joined up yesterday.
Over the past decade or so I've been trying to figure out how to
machine a female SAS J512 inverted flare seat in a brass block
using a manual Bridgeport milling machine.
Mill cutters are avalable to cut the basic shape, but the real
trick comes in with the female thread. The thread realy has to
go just about to the bottom of the bore. You say bottom tap?
Well yes, a bottom tap is necessary but the problem is the 45°
cone in the bottom that your special cutter formed. It appears
that the center of the tap would need to be V'ed out to clear
the cone. This would not be a problem with a CNC machine, there
you could program it to single point a thread right to the
bottom of the bore, but most of us don't have access to one of
those.
So, I can have a cutter ground to give me the shape I need but
HOW IN THE WORLD CAN I CUT A THREAD IN THE TAP DRILLED HOLE??????

Denny G
Sandwich, IL


Last edited by Denny Graham; 05/12/2013 10:33 AM.

Denny G
Sandwich, IL
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Originally Posted by Denny Graham
I've thrown this out on several occasions, but since were're on
the subject of brass fittings I'll try again, never know who
when a whiz bang machinist might have joined up yesterday.
Over the past decade or so I've been trying to figure out how to
machine a female SAS J512 inverted flare seat in a brass block
using a manual Bridgeport milling machine.
Mill cutters are avalable to cut the basic shape, but the real
trick comes in with the female thread. The thread realy has to
go just about to the bottom of the bore. You say bottom tap?
Well yes, a bottom tap is necessary but the problem is the 45°
cone in the bottom that your special cutter formed. It appears
that the center of the tap would need to be V'ed out to clear
the cone. This would not be a problem with a CNC machine, there
you could program it to single point a thread right to the
bottom of the bore, but most of us don't have access to one of
those.
So, I can have a cutter ground to give me the shape I need but
HOW IN THE WORLD CAN I CUT A THREAD IN THE TAP DRILLED HOLE??????

Denny G
Sandwich, IL

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Thanks Tim, I went back and re-entered it, thought I punched the
right button at the bottom but since it takes about a minute
for everything to load now days I went off to make Ma her
breakfast and dint check it.
Don't expect anything to come of it anyway, it never has in the
past.
DG


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Originally Posted by wurlitzer46
Originally Posted by DADS50
http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-178-brake-line-tees.aspx

If above link is what your looking for your local auto parts store should be able to get it.


Yes, it looks like those, except on the 52 3100, the fitting joins a 1/4" line to two 3/16" lines.

I think Denny linked the fitting above
...Denny link...
Take a look at the two pics or call JC to confirm the sizes


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They can be found. I think when you dig deep through NAPA, you can find it. Worst case, find a 1/4" T and two 1/4 x 3/16" adapters. Looks like they got it, tho', with the Jim Carter part.

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Couldn't get that text to go to a hyperlink for some reason Gus, thanks.

That 3/16" reduction has been a problem before, the 3600 and up use 1/4" lines thru out.
That unavailability and the fact that you can invest between $250 and $300 to replace all
the brass on a rebuild is the driving force behind my desire to find the tooling needed to
make my own fittings.
Brass inverted flare fittings are really only meant to be used once. If you look closely at
the seats in a used brass fitting that has had a steel tube crushed into it you’ll see that the
cone is almost always distorted.
So I taint gonna be any help to ya finding the ¼.x 3/16 x 3/16x ½”NC fitting. Wish I
could make ya one but I’ve been trying to find out the secret for about a decade with no
luck.

DG

Last edited by Denny Graham; 05/12/2013 11:25 AM.

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Denny, I have seen taps that were made just for threading inverted flare fittings, and they are just as you say, having a recess in the tip for the seat. I think it was Snap-On that had them, but I'm unable to find them in their online catalog. I won't see my local dealer until Friday, but if I remember, I'll ask if they still carry them, as I've been wanting to get a set of them myself.


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Originally Posted by DADS50
I think Denny linked the fitting above
...Denny link...
Take a look at the two pics or call JC to confirm the sizes


Thanks guys, I will try that fitting that bolts to the frame, it looks like there is a hole for it.
Meanwhile, while changing the lines, I just discovered a frame crack behind the cab mount. Ugh.


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That is all to common. I have welded more than a few.


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Boy Bill, I'd really appreceate it if you would check. I haven't
been able to find anything online. That's the missing link that's
preventing me from making my own fittings once I get electric
piped over to the mill.

Yep Dave, all to common. I've found a bunch on my '50 around the
rear engine mount crossmember. I might add that whether you
weld that crack or not wurlitzer46, you can stop it by drilling
a hole at the end of the crack. That should be done even if you
do get it welded.

Denny G

Last edited by Denny Graham; 05/13/2013 7:40 AM.

Denny G
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thanks guys.
That crack runs across the top of the "C" and about an inch down vertically. Can a crack be welded ok from one side only? You can access it pretty well from underneath/inside and I hadnt planned on removing the cab.


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If you V out the crack as best you can and have the welder set right, so you get good penetration, it will work fine.


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I think I have one of those "T" PM me if you are still looking for one. Mine had a bolt that attached through the frame on the passengers side and it is made so that a line from the master cylinder goes to it and then a line t's and goes to the left for the passenger wheel cylinder and the line from the right goes to the rear wheel cylinders.

I upgraded mine master cylinder to a dual power master cylinder.

It came off a 1956 chevy 3100


"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen

56 Chevy 3100

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