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Joined: Sep 2007
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'Bolter
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I've searched and have found a lot of information on how to refurbish gauges but I was wondering if anyone has any tips for the actual installation of the cluster. It's a 1947 AD. For example, I have a new temp gauge and it comes with the tube coiled up. Do I (A)leave it coiled, install the cluster, then uncoil, or (B)uncoil, then install the cluster? My arms and hands seem too big to get behind there. Do I need to enlist the help of a neighbourhood kid with long skinny arms? Any ideas/tips greatly appreciated. Thanks.


It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
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'Bolter
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I can give you a couple of tips from my own experience 6' tall and 180 pounds.
1. Take out the seat and frame it gives you a lot more room.
2. Take out the radio speaker grill. For at least the first two on the speedo it makes them easy. Plus it will let additional light in.If you have a flashlight headlamp that is also good because a handheld flashlight just makes it harder.
3. If you have a 4-speed shifter remove it too, its easy, just untwist the lock ring (make sure it is in neutral). Cover the hole with a rattle can lid works perfect, your back will thank you.
4. Sears sells a nifty little nut driver with a flex head on it that works really well here. Just enough flex to get around the dash to firewall support bracket. http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-...P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7
5. On the tube you will need to run it out the grommet to the block why not get it out of the way. Be advised there is more tube than needed so be sure you can coil some back up under the dash.
6. Unhook the battery, the back side of the ammeter will mess with your night vision if you contact the posts doing this!
7. One final thing you can do, I have done it but not entirely necessary is you can pull the clutch and brake pedals, just two bolts and it will buy you a few extra inches right where your head is!
8. Everything under there will cut or stick you it seems so be careful (is your Tetnus booster current)?

Good luck, and remember if there are small children about they will need a profanity warning most likely.

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Shop Shark
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Also, someone here recently suggested using wing nuts instead of regular nuts to mount the instruments.I thought that is a great idea. No socket wrench needed. Just hand tighten.


Drew
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'Bolter
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The suggestion I remember was to use the deep brass nuts that have a round knurled body. They are made to be tightened with fingers.

My suggestion would be to do everything from in front of the dash. With the radio grill, ash tray and the speedometer removed, you can see things and have good access. It may help to undo the light switch to give some slack in the harness.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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Another suggestion is to replace the wiring harness at this time. They run $150 and are not that difficult to replace. Moving the 65 year old wiring around might cause problems you don't need.



David Gilmore
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'Bolter
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Good time to replace firewall gromets also.


1953 Chevy Two-Ton
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Thanks for the tips!! The wiring has been done by a PO. Truckernix, where would one get deep brass nuts?


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Brad said it and I agree 100%, check your tetanus shot records, if you haven't had one in 5 years, get a booster, so many things that can draw blood there -under that dash,lol. Also, I get into the habit of wearing a cheap filter mask and eyewear too. Never take PPE for granted.

Last edited by sstock; 05/02/2013 3:44 PM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
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1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
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Extreme Gabster
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I got brass knurled nuts at Ace hardware.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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I got the brass nuts at my local big box lumber store. I'm thinking that removing the steering wheel might help, too.


It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
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'Bolter
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I removed the seat and sat on the floor with my head under the dash. It was still uncomfortable but it was easier to get my hands and tools on things.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7543370106_9265f05d05_z.jpg

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That looks like high octane fuel you are using!
Harold


Harold
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Great thread. Just ordered that Sears flexibble socket thingy. Thanks for posting. I'm 6-4 257 pounds and I dislike how the gauges and speedo were installed...just for the reason of removal and installation. Just how was it done at the factory in the day? Did they advertise for little people? Or height impaired people to be politically correct? Employment Sign: "Little People Wanted - Small Nut Experience Preferred."


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5
Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by BLUEMEANIE
I removed the seat and sat on the floor with my head under the dash. It was still uncomfortable but it was easier to get my hands and tools on things.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7543370106_9265f05d05_z.jpg
Now that's the way to get through the gauge removal process! That should be in the manual. My vote for pic of the year.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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