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Howdy All --- I've read through all the "wheels & tires" posts that I could find but didn't come across what I was looking for...basic question being...what is involved in removing the rear rims off a 1.5 or 2 ton dually? I have never pulled them before.

Spent a week on a front rim that was so tight on the center pilot hole that I had to weld a half-inch nut over one of the empty lug positions and run a bolt in against the mounting plate to force it off. The other rim just dropped free as soon as the lugs were loose.

On the rear it appears that both rims are held on by one set of lugs but again, they appear frozen in place on the pilot flange as well as to one another. Tried heating with a torch as well as "cold-shocking" with no effect at all. And have probably poured a quart of rust solvent everywhere I can get to.

A ten pound sledge produces zero movement and since the rear uses all ten studs I can't use the welded nut & bolt solution.

Anyone here have any suggestions?

What about driving a steel wedge between the two rims?


1946 1.5-Ton Chevy Shorty Bus
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Tango's 1946 Chevy "Skoolie" Project
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Tango, I have two rear axles in my back 40 that no matter what I did ( and i did it all, as you have ) I could not remove the duals on one and the inner wheels on the other. These were hub centric also.I scapped the center section by cutting the axle housing from the wheel and hub.....I feel your pain.


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Take a small bottle jack and set it sideways against the hub. Hook a chain to the rims hand holes, across the top of the bottle jack and back to the opposite hand hole in the rim. Pump until it pops off.

I've seen folks make a little adapter to hold the chain on the bottle jack, but two people would make short work of this.

Don't heat the rims, that doesn't work very well and if the videos posted on youtube (also shared here at one point) are any guideline, the tires can blow with the added heat.

Jeff


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Hey Rustednut --- your handle makes you sound the most qualified so I'll see what I can rig using the bottlejack technique. Thanks a bunch, will let you know how it goes.


1946 1.5-Ton Chevy Shorty Bus
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Tango's 1946 Chevy "Skoolie" Project
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If really despirate, loosen the lug nuts slightly, drive it around, hopefully not on a public road.


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
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Hey Folks --- can't drive it Ed, the wheels I'm trying to pull are on a bare frame. And there will be a fair amount of rigging necessary to try the chain & hydraulic jack trick. The axle cover in the center has a big ridge that will need to be covered/protected somehow but I think I will give it a go as soon as I can gather all the bits & pieces (steel plate, pipe, chain, etc.).


1946 1.5-Ton Chevy Shorty Bus
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Tango's 1946 Chevy "Skoolie" Project
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I like the bottle jack idea, will try this on my 57 6400 where the right rear inner is stuck.

I'll report back with results...
Thanks!


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carve a piece of 2x4 to fit flat on the hub, a nice soft base for the jack.....


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1958 GMC
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BTW --- here is a pic of the front wheel "press" that finally got that rim off. Just a half-inch nut welded over an empty lug hole in the rim and a bolt that pushes in against the mounting plate. Cut and ground the nut off when done and still have a usable rim.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8259/8653460573_c58772c46f.jpg

Last edited by Tango; 04/16/2013 2:17 PM.

1946 1.5-Ton Chevy Shorty Bus
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Tango's 1946 Chevy "Skoolie" Project
All my best --- Tango

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