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| | | Forums66 Topics128,192 Posts1,057,351 Members48,469 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | I'm pretty sure from talking to a few people that my radiator is shot...not circulating enough water/coolant. I see the Filling Station has them but well over $400. That's for a repro of original. Yes, I'd like to stick with original but money is becoming a problem. Are there any ones made, aside from this, that will fit/work in my truck ....and are they much less expensive ? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | I thought you'd found the engine was running about 175 [quite cool] and the gauge was the problem? who are these people saying the rad is "shot"? have you had it to a radiator shop?
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | Well, I did just call my mechanic and he told me that if I read the water at the radiator at 185 it was likely close to 200+ in the block. The rad shop determined that the one I have is not moving all that much water/coolant. The gauge is original to the truck and mechanical...so yes, I need to replace the gauge/sender too. My shop manual says that once the truck over heats that the sender/gauge need to all be replaced. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 124 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 124 | I bought a aluminum radiator pretty reasonable on ebay. The the one I bought bolts right up to my '59. It looks like a race car radiator but it seems to work well.
Last edited by GeneWiseman; 03/18/2013 10:53 AM.
Gene 1959 Apache
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | "shop manual says that once the truck over heats that the sender/gauge need to all be replaced." pardon?? where exactly did you read that? vehicles overheat from time to time, especially these older rigs, replacing the gauge every time that occurs is definitely not required
the rad doesn't "move coolant" the water pump does that, the rad passes it top to bottom and cools the water in the process - you should find with a laser thermometer that the bottom rad hose will show 5-15* cooler than the top - if the flow in the rad is slow, it's sludged up and needs rodding out, a process unknown to many younger folks at newer shops, maybe you should check with another rad shop that understands the old systems .... and if the system "is not moving all that much water" you might want to check the water pump
if the water in the top rad hose is about 185, then you have a 180* thermostat, and the gauge is showing about 185, regardless of what the numbers on it say .... these old gauges are not scientific grade fine instruments, and while it may be that yours is so inaccurate that you should replace it, replacing the whole cooling system is a solution to a problem you don't have, particularly as you say money is tight .... a post in the parts wanted would likely find you a good used gauge with the sender bulb still attached
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | Bill,
He, shop guy, said that the difference between top and bottom tanks on mine was only about 15. That's why he said my rad was not cooling or passing enough water/coolant. I know the pump pushed the water and rad only cools it. I asked him for a 160 thermostat but he may well have put in a 180...not sure. He had told me that the difference between top and bottom should be much greater than what you said above.. ??
I read that the sending unit on the 49's were mechanical and that once over heated they needed to be replaced as a unit..gauge and sender. That was in the green Chevy shop manual...green with Yellow letters. You know the one I think...
I know that you are a very experienced guy with these so don't get me wrong...I'm not doing anything but asking as many knowledgable people as I can...but I seem to get different opinions/info. Trust me...I really appreciate all the input I get from all on SB. I will call another shop about rodding it out...thanks for that too.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | These old trucks have systems that are somewhere between perfect and extremely poor in condition. Generally if your truck tends to run around 180 deg. under load and when idling then that would be ideal. I don't know your location but I would guess operating in some areas of extreme heat would result in a little higher temperature.
When I had my rad done, I had it recored. Apparently the core design looks slightly different but I told them that it was not a problem. It is more efficient than the original and it all fit in correctly. If you do a search on here you will find plenty of posts where someone bought a new rad and something was different about it and sometimes it was a problem. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | Thanks... I bought an aluminum one...cheap..but if not right I can return it for full refund. I know it won't look original but right now I can't afford one... this one is cheap enough to replace with an original later if I want to... | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | my bet is there's absolutely nothing wrong with your original rad, 15* difference is fine, especially considering the reading at the top is fine, the engine is NOT overheating 2nd, your gauge will read no different with a different rad 3rd, you really have no problem that requires spending money beyond maybe finding a used gauge that will read further down so it's easier to see sudden changes in behavior, which is really what the gauge is for, indicating if things change from "normal", and right now it sounds like your cooling system is 100% normal
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | You're likely correct. I'll get a new (to me) gauge and send the new rad back if it's all OK... I have that option. So many other people allegedly 'in the know' tell me different things though. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | put the folks "in the know" who are in a position to sell you something or charge you for a service at the bottom of the list  your best bet is to learn lots about the old trucks and the systems involved, I believe the 49 manual has a lot of systems theory explanations, you're never too old to learn Bill | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | dogface, nothing beats experience and you are gaining just that. When the "OLD PROS" are gone then it will be you sharing info you have gained along the way. Keep it simple.
..just speaking of radiators "reminds" me of hours of digging and looking. The more you know and are informed the better decision you can make. Check out the U.S. Radiator sight and a few others for some good reading. If you do a search here you'll find hours of reading. Its not been that long ago that there were "links" coming out of the woodwork for the best deals on what works, who's fits best ect ect.....
As we say on the Stovebolt....Knowledge is the best Resource and of coarse advice from the "tribal elders" as Peggy like to say!
Keep us posted and let us know how things turn out. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | put the folks "in the know" who are in a position to sell you something or charge you for a service at the bottom of the list  your best bet is to learn lots about the old trucks and the systems involved, I believe the 49 manual has a lot of systems theory explanations, you're never too old to learn Bill Where's the icon of a hammer hitting a nail on the head? Surfing the web can be MOST rewarding. There's so much info it's hard to know where to start sometimes so I build a bookmarks folder for easy access. DON'T over fill it... just the cream! I remember finding a page showing vacuum gauge readings and how to use one. Between that and a great tune up page I found from the 90's they made tuning the old engines FUN instead of a struggle figuring out what means what. and forgive Bill's suggestion that folks are just out to sell you something... he can't help it when he's right.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | Well, the shop that did the flush was not/did not try to sell me anything. They just gave me bad info..at least about these trucks...maybe they are different from modern cars. The guy I have doing other work is one I trust and has not sold me on anything either. I will change out the gauge and see where that puts me. I won't even begin to install a new rad until I do that.
Yes, I'm a green pea at all this and maybe should never have gone with an old buggy since I'm so green at auto mechanics.. I'm starting to think I should try to get what I can out of her, take my hits, and move on... Likely no sense in tossing good money after bad. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 206 | i have a 53 with a 56 235. i got a rad from ebay for 180 that way a 2 core, it was to thick  had to send it back, the bottem tank was way to wide, i would have had to cut out the welded cross bars and relocated the mounting brackets to get it to work. i ended up going with a used on. i dont know if the 216s have this prob but with a later 235s you will prob need the single core | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | Hmmm....I think mine is coming from an ebay store. That's about the price too. Mine is a 49 with a 56 235
Last edited by Dogface; 03/19/2013 12:57 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Dogface, don't you dare give up. Stick with it. It will get better and soon you'll start to actually enjoy the task. Nothing like looking back after a while and smiling as you think about all YOU have accomplished. Satisfaction at its peak. 15 minutes a day will do miracles. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 206 | i think the guys who made my radiator to fit the rad support but might not have had a entire truck, also the 216s fan dosent come out as far. it would work well with a v-8 but if its 2 rows or more, its too wide.  | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | Was that Performance Cooling..in Stockton Ca that you bought from ? Sounds the same as the one I ordered from them....2 core all aluminum. Mine was just shipped yesterday but I think I'll refuse it when it gets here and contact them to tell them why. Thanks for the heads up. I just contacted The Filling Station to find an elec temp gauge...they don't have one they say. I thought later AD trucks had them ? Rather than spend big bucks on a new gauge cluster or individual gauges, I just bought a set of three 2" gauges to mount below the dash. All new parts and senders... $40. Also found a place 30 miles away to do a better job on the radiator to see if there are any clogs, etc. Chipmonk: Thanks for the words of encouragement..  just frustrated yesterday. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | no, factory electric temp gauges didn't start until the 56 models, but there are vendors [sorry, don't have any links] that do have electric to fit the AD's .... good on the new rad shop, long established places should know how to properly evaluate the old rad, if they don't leak and will stand a 4# pressure cap [or 7# max], they should work fine, if there appears to be any restriction, removing the tanks and rodding out will take care of it
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | Bill, Thanks again.... I looked at the rad cap I have now...looks pretty new...and it has a 9 stamped on the top....I'm guessing that would be 9 lb. ? I'll take it in to Riebies today and try to get a 4 lb. The shop I mentioned is 30 miles away...I'm kinda goosey about driving it that far if it is overheating...and I dunno if it really is. Gonna call them this AM and see what they say they can do...and if they have experience with these old ladies...
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 290 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 290 | I have a 3 core aluminum radiator that i bought of ebay from an out fit out of cali. it fit perfect & I have no issuses about cooling. I use an electric fan instead of the engine fan. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 543 | Probably the same company I got mine from. Just received it yesterday but have not unboxed it yet. I found a shop about 25 miles away that is good with rads and will replace the cores. I did see those with the elec fan and found that to be an interesting way to go...not sure of the fit on mine though... Guy told me that they are American made in San Diego...
Just looked at your picture gallery....very nice indeed...love the color..my new jeep is that color.. Also like your interior. I see that your hood fits about like mine...why the big gaps ? I dunno if it's bad fender mounting or improper hood spring placement.
Last edited by Dogface; 03/22/2013 1:19 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 290 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 290 | Yep, I didn't get to excited about fitting it as it's off the truck now at the bodyshop getting repainted. I stopped by there yesturday to take a look. looks way better than it did(was wrong color). Their going to mount it back on the truck for me but I told them I would adjust everything. Thanks for the kind words too. That Hugger Orange is bright. should have the truck on the road by the end of April(fingers crossed). I'm going to keep watching the post to keep up on your progress. Trucks is coming along... | | |
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