The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop "55 series 2, runs then dies

Straight 6 with a rebuilt Rochester single barrel. Starts just fine, idles decent, but when I want to go, it dies. Starts up fine etc...
While driving, the engine just dies. Sometimes I can pop the clutch and get it going but it is usually dead until I key start it again.
Fuel pump new and working. Was garaged for 7 years but carb was rebuilt after it was out of storage. I can only drive it a few miles and unfortunately my wife is getting good at towing me home. No fun!!! Any suggestions? Thanks

when it dies have you checked for fuel in the carb? maybe sludge in the gas that sat for years? rusty tank? got a fuel filter? internally rotten rubber fuel line that stops gas flow?

Bill

first id see if my distributor turns when you rev it. your vacuum advance on the distributor should make it turn a lil bit when you rev. if your vac advance isnt working the car will not run right when revved.

then determin if its a fuel,electric of vac leak problem.

put a visible filter between the pump and carb, that way you know that fuel getting to the carb,

pull off your carb, fill the bowl, and see if your carb is squirting when you work the throttle body/

check the float and needle, make sure it drop freely and not hanging up, preventing gas from flowing into the carb.

if carb seems fine and squirts when worked. investigate your points,timing, and check for vac leaks

Thanks Red58. All those things came out negative.
Thanks Drew vigil. Haven't tried a few of your suggestions, but will real soon!

Try turning you distributer while engine off. Don't loose any thing justice sure it spins a tiny bit. Then start her and look at the vac ad . vac advance is a lil diaphram you see on the distributed with a metal line on it runin to the carb base

Check to see it the dist spins when you increase throttle ( the dizz should advance as the throttle increases and the vacuum from the carb is supposed to turn that dist. If you rev it and your whole distributed doesn't turn that 1/16 or 1/8 .

I'm no expert by any means so don't take my word. I'm having problems with a new manifold and I'm always trying to pry the minds here with anwsers to questions I may have. They say start with the simplest conclusion and use our powers of deduction to determine what's wrong.

I think if you can determine that first the vac ad works then pull then carb to inspect then it would be a vac leak (windshield wiper open, cracked manifold )

Good luck man. Anybody else wanna chime in

I'm confused with the statement "Starts just fine, idles decent, but when I want to go, it dies. Starts up fine etc...
While driving, the engine just dies" (it's the While driving that throws me)

Is the fuel pump a stock mechanical pump? (not electric)

When the engine IS running, can you rev it up? If it does, then the problem may be with the coil.

I hope at least this helps clarify the description of the problem.

I can be just driving along and it just dies. Push on the gas and nothing. A couple of times I left it in gear and popped the clutch and it started back up. Other times I just coasted to a stop. I'd give it a minute and it would normally start up. I've not had it out over 4 miles without dying at least once. I've I've replaced the coil and the mechanical fuel pump. Rebuilt the single barrel Rochester, it does seem to be running rich, lots of gunk from the exhaust.
It's embarrassing to get a tow home!

Given what you have told us, I think Drew is barking up the right tree. If your truck can start and idle all day long then it dies while driving, it is either fuel or timing. Timing is the more common for a runnin truck.

Instead of your wife towing, have her rev the engine while you watch the distributer. When reved, it should turn to the left a little, then be able to return to the original position when it returns to idle. That may be the issue, the vacuum advance may work, but could be binding on the dizzy so it does not return to idle vacuum quick enough causing the engine to stall.

runrz,

Once you've checked the dizzy as SWEET and Drew say, and assuming it's behaving, you might try a new condenser. I had similar issues as you, covered here.

It was like someone reached into the cab and turned the ignition to the off position every now and then. I checked with a multimeter to confirm that the voltage dropped clean out when this happened.

I'd make sure and listen to Red58 and Sweet closely as they are experts on this engine, but if all else fails, try swapping out the condenser later and see if it helps.

Good Luck,

Jim