The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Pinion Crush or Spacer? '59

OK guys. I'm not totally in the dark pretty dang close.

I'm putting this '59 pumpkin in my panel and it needed a pinion seal. No problem...yet.
Now, I know if when we take the pinion nut off to replace the seal we need to pre-load the pinion bearings. I had also heard a "crush sleeve" should be used. (crush sleeve is not mentioned in the manual)

Well I ordered the pinion seal and a crush sleeve before pulling the old seal. When I pulled the old seal out I pulled the front bearing to inspect it to and noticed the SPACER behind it. The illustration in the manual list it as a "pinion bearing seal".

I got the correct seal but the crush sleeves I got were the two short ones in the picture. (2 to a pack)

http://s140.beta.photobucket.com/us...amp;_suid=136304863187608922489271672798

Question: is the long one (Spacer) in the picture really a factory crush sleeve??? If so, then I need to get a new one.

Question? I can't use one of the short ones in the picture as there is not enough room to use it and the "spacer". (couldn't get the nut on if I did)

Question: do I need to forget the crush washer and use a new Spacer?? I know I can only pre-load it once and cannot back it off....so I'll get two of whatever I need just in case!!


Would someone give me a "101" tutorial on this. I've read the info in the manual a few times and understand it....even have a guy with a special tool to pre-load it for me. HELP....and Thank You.

The parts store gave you the wrong part(s). The "crush sleeve" is the spacer you took out. The new one should look the same, but without the deformation on the one end. The deformation is caused when the pinion nut is tightened to set the preload. Not sure what the parts they gave you go to, they don't match the Spicer axle used in the '59 Posi rearend either.

The long tube is the correct crush sleeve.
I do not replace the crush sleeve on the ones I work on. I make a shim to go under the big end so the sleeve gets crushed a little more.
I cut a shim out of a paint thinner can. It is about .010" thick and works well.

Go with a shim as Pre 68 Dave does. If you are not comfortable making one, find a mechanic that does rear axle work. They usually save old shims left over from gear or bearing replacements. At least I do. I have about 20 to 30 different sizes, and hundreds on hand. It's also a lot easier to crush down .010 than .080 to .100 on a new sleeve, to get the correct bearing preload.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the time you take to help me. It all makes sense and confirmed what "i was thinking".
Bill, I simply ask for a pinion sleeve and those two short ones are what showed up. For a few pennies over $3 I figure I'd keep them and maybe help someone else sometimes.

In my spare time I deliver driveshafts for a local guy who runs Carolina DriveLine. I deliver to several 4x4 shops and could have probably got the info there....but I keep business as business most of the time. There is one shop that is nice and friendly and I'm sure Buddy will give me a handful of shims and the correct crush sleeve, and probably some advice as well!!! In fact, Tom mentioned the other day that he may have some at the driveline shop.
Its great knowing we can count on the Stovebolt community when we need it. Thanks again.