The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1941 COE "Miss.Betty" Now with pictures!

Just picked up my 40 coe. She's about 98% complete and I'm trying to get her runnin. I think she's a 6v, positive ground system, but am unsure as I don't have a manual or a wiring diagram? I'd like to know where I can get parts,and info.

By the way, where did stovebolt come from?
Photobucket Photo Alblum

StraightJacket,

Welcome to the Stovebolt

Are you working on a Chevy or GMC?

The Chevrolet straight 6 engines were nick named the "Stovebolt 6" because of the type of bolts (1/4-20 slot screw bolts which are called stove bolts) used to fasten the tin on their motors back in the late 20's and 30's.

Mike B

The Cast Iron Wonder - The Stove Bolt Six

It's a GMC, sorry I missed that. I found another thread about the voltage,looks like it is a 6v positive ground system.

Has anybody ever run two 6v batts? That way you could pull 12v for the starter and 6v for everything else?

I kept my '52 GMC COE 6 volt. I've found that usually through the years modern battery cables have been used to replace the original cables, & they just don't cut it. I replaced the modern cables that were on my truck when I purchased it, with thicker 2/0 cables, & installed a new 6 volt Optima battery, & it spins twice as fast as before.

Agree with Spanky, I was having trouble with my starter when I first got my truck on the road, at least, thats what I thought it was. I posted on here and got educated on battery cables. Changed to 2/0 and have not had any problems since. In fact, I started my truck the first time since Nov on Saturday and it fired right up, 1st try.
Would love to see some pictures of your truck. What are your plans for it beyond getting it running? Oh and welcome by the way.

I'd like to keep it fairly stock, drop it on the full size running gear.I'm debating on making a pickup bed for it or a custom flatbed? Will be using it to pick up motorcycles,parts and materials for around the house. Pretty much anything I want to haul as long as it's pretty local.

What does that mean? Being 98% complete isn't it already on it's own full size running gear?

My 46 is all stock except for a 62 235, and it's so low geared I can't do much more than 40 MPH. Interstates are kind of scary! But I'm the type that likes original. They worked fine then, they can work fine now.

You might like this.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8296868623/in/set-72157632314013722

Sorry,I just meant lowering it a bit. Mines 4/6Ton and is sitting pretty high.I don't need that much cap.and figured I could drop it to a more standard ride height and get a little better ride at the same time?

Cool manual suplement! Mine comes apart way easier, no tools really needed to get to everything.
Took your advice and picked up an Optima, and will get 2/0 cables made soon.
Am I missing something? This forum doesn't look like it has an easy way to post pics?

Strike that last question. Went to the short bus and found it.

Thats funny,my rig almost looks like a short bus,imagine that!

The owners don't allow posting pics.

Hay Brad Allen, I love those flickr photos. They got my 39 COE. I wish I could find more sales literature on 1939 Chevy COE's. Especially accessories brochures info. Thank you for posting that one...

Well, I got her cranking but no fire in the holes? Thats the best I could do with family around. I felt guilty sneeking out into the garage.Maybe today??

Threw in some fresh gas,new coil,cap,rotor,condenser and plugs. Disconected the wiring harness and hotwired her. A little shot of starter fluid to help out,,,,, and she fired right up!!! Purrs like a kitten! I'm super stoked!
So I drove her around the block a few times taking turns with the wife and kids as passengers and I have a couple of questions. Shes very low geared probably tops out at 55? We got her up to 45ish didn't seem like there was a lot left? She has so much torque that I had to drive her with the throttle knob, is that normal, or do I just need to practice? Definatly need to work on the down shifting. I'll work on linking some pics tomorrow. We think we're gonna call her "Miss.Betty"

When these trucks were new the maximum speed limit was 45 mph.

Well up early this morning to get the kid off to a track meet. Browsing through the gallery looking at other members COE's and it's got me thinking? What year's my rig? I was told 41, when I went and checked her out paperwork said 40. She has the same grill as Tomcoe's rig and the Jeepers Creepers truck except the grill is all horizontal not vertical?

I need to get some pics linked so somone can tell me more about her.

Hey guy's, I have a few questions. This is all new to me so sorry for being a lil slow... Anyhow, I have a 37 GMC COE. I am building a show truck out of it based on a 2005 GMC Durmax platform. I have stretched the cab and am currently looking for a set of doors for the rear section. I plan on making it a three door plus a window where the driver side rear door would be. This is where I have been having the most problems. I can seem to find the correct doors for the rear. I have been told by Spanky that any 1.5 Ton doors will work (T-18?) However, I noticed that on most of the doors that I have found the doors at the leading edge are slanted back at the "A" pillar. On my Cab the doors are not slanted back. Explaining this to guys who have salvage yards is somewhat difficult. Most are looking at the dash to determine if it has three gauges it has to be the correct cab. Anyone out there have any Ideas where to look? I wish I could post a pic to show you what the build looks like...Grrrr!

Can you post some pictures of what you have done so far. Like, I was saying, I believe you should be able to use any conventional doors from 1/2 ton thru 1 1/2 ton for the rear door. There was this type of conversion available back then when ordering a truck for crew work. GM had outside companies convert regular cab trucks into crew cabs. I've seen three door cab COE's used for Firetrucks, ect. many times.

After using a link posted by another member I was able to figure out that it is a 1941,GMC,350series,with a wheelbase of 176 7/8". Now to clean off the motor plate for the engine numbers.
Edit.
The motor is a 235. It looks like the wheelbase has been shortened by about 4', and I cut off about another 2 1/2' of frame behind the rearend that was pretty beat up.
I linked some pictures in the first post. If you click on the alblum,"Miss.Betty" there are a few more.

two wheel pig. I agree that I would go with a standard (non-coe) door for the rear. I don't understand what you mean about your door not being slanted, as I was thinking they all had slanted windshields (not perfectly vertical). But, if you have stretched it and everything else, then you are apt at fabrication. Get two doors (one of each side) and use the drivers door rear portion of the window area to fab a vertical (front) for the passenger side. You would then end up with a round cornered, square door. Just my input.

Two wheel pig, the guy I got my rig from also has a 1/2 ton parts truck. It's pretty much just the body. I didn't check it out real well as I didn't need the parts. If you need some I'm sure I could check it out and get you some pics?

Tomcoe, I really like your rig, wish mine was that clean.

I screwed up trying to link an alblum on my first post. I think I fixed it, can someone tell me if it worked?

Straightjacket, who put a Chevy 235 in that GMC. How dare they do that !, or is it a Canadian built truck? Good look'in truck.

I didn't even catch the fact that it wasn't the stock motor? That might mean another look at the numbers. When I get a chance, I'll put up all the numbers I can and let you experts tell me what she is. I'll keep putting pics in the alblum as we go.

Thanks spanky, I'm diggin it!

Looks pretty darn similar to my '47.1! Check out my pics. Depending on what you start to do with her I have a bunch of original part numbers for replacement parts that are available.

Looks like a real nice clean project!

Jeff

I'm really new to these rigs and it appears that I mispoke,,,again. I was told by a gentelman that if it has the GMC valve cover on it, it can't be a Chevy motor? Because the GMC bolts through the middle and the Chevy around the edge. Is this correct? Maybe I looked at the wrong chart for the engine numbers?
Also he said that the GMC motors are a higher reving beast than the CHEVY, up to 8,000rpm? That sounds a little high.
One of my goals this weekend is to document all the numbers I can find and get them on here so you guys can tell me what I actually have. I hate telling people what it is and then getting the,,, Ya,No, That's not what you got look/post. Go away kid you're bothering me reply.
On another note my wiring harness came in, wohoo! I'm really looking forward to see what is working with the electrical system?

GMC blocks are about 3" longer than 235's etc., thus the valve cover won't fit, that's why the GMC radiators are in FRONT of the radiator shroud vs. Chevy in the REAR. Modern, 7 main Chevys are about the same length as GMC blocks.

Had some time to get the numbers,some of them were hard to read but here they are.
Drivers side on the firewall, I58I-3290

The original ID plate states,

General Motors Truck
Manafactured By
Yellow Truck&Coach Mfg. Co.
Pontiac,Mich.USA
Mdl.CF354 Sn.536
87hp@3000rpm Max Gross,15,500

There's another plate on both sides of the cab. I'm guessing the company that outfitted it for the military? It states,

Doane Motor Truck Co.
San Francisco, Ca.
No.AB153 Cap. 4/6 Tons

The engine number looks like D23605471. Looks like XS37 on the rearend. On the door in faded Yellow paint is,
USMC
50684
DQSF

I think thats just about all the pertinant info? I'd be interested in any help in correctly identifying my truck. Engine size,gear ratio,year all that. What it was used for in the military would be cool to know as well.
I recently had the tranny out to replace the freeze plug that had rotted away. Whats up with freeze plugs that only last 70 years?LOL I don't think it's the original tranny? It has a H/L trigger on the stick shift, and a driveline brake. I didn't get those numbers yet, but I did see a bowtie cast into the housing? The rearend has e-brake cables coming out and not going anywhere. Rearend looks stock tranny doesn't.

C=1941
F=COE
354=350 Series, 4=176 7/8" wheelbase
SN= 536th off the line for 350 series trucks

The 236 in the engine serial number indicates a 236 engine, although originally it could have came equipped with either the 228 or 236.

Is the rear a single speed or two speed?

The thumb lever on the shifter is the reverse lockout switch so you don't accidentally pop the truck into reverse. A huck brake rear would have had the ebrake connected through the backing plates not a driveline brake.

Jeff

That makes sense, I think the tranny has been replaced, hense the modified e-brake. I think they did that when the PO put on a brake booster, it took the area where the e-brakes used to be routed.
As far as the rear end? Doesn't look like a two speed, but there is some sort of adjuster on the side of the pinion?
She fires up on her own now! Thanks to some starting advice, and just knocking the cobwebs out. The more she gets used the better she's working, and the better I get at shifting.
I'll get some more pics up soon. Made a new battery tray to get rid of the old rusty one and designd to hold the Optima better. Just need to machine a couple of hold down brackets and a cool strap for the top to make it look a little more period correct?

There's a lock nut outside the carrier that has an adjusting screw (big one) that has a bronze thrust washer/cap inside the rearend that prevents the ring gear inside from twisting sideways when starting out in first gear with the trucks weight capacity overloaded.

Jeff

That makes sense, at first I thought it was a H/L lever with reverse. So, the tranny is a four speed with reverse, not a seven speed H/L? It sure did seem like it had a low range, but i could be wrong? I thought I was wrong once,but I was mistaken?

We did use her today to pull out a culvert. It sure is nice to have a big truck with low gears!

Nice px, had one just like it, same color, was military radio/generator truck.

I guess I missed where you determined if your truck was Chevy or GMC?? I own a '42 Chevy 1-1/2 ton G506 army truck, and what I'd offer is that as a truck built for the military, it has MANY civilian parts, and assemblies. That said, it also has MANY that are unique to the military models. When I first looked at your Photobucket page, I thought it was likely military... You need to find yourself a set of manuals so you know how it was when original.

You can see some info about my truck here: ChevyG506.shutterfly.com

Thats a pretty cool rig, my buddy is building one like that, but his is a dual rear axle and dump bed I believe? Mine is pretty plain jane, but in good shape. I wish it had the cooler headlights on it though. It's a GMC and it all works so I'm just gonna clean her up, make a bed and have the experience of driving a 72 year old rig for awhile. Then who knows? My wife really like here the way she is.

That is one fine looking COE you have there. What are your plans with this truck? I like that you have already used it to pull out a culvert. Keep the old stuff working!

Thanks, going to fix her up stock for now. Having the experience of driving a truck this old can't be passed up. Not many younger people can say "I have one of those, drive it all the time"? I plan on using it to pick up lumber and supplies for the house,metal to fab,motercycles,parts,pretty much any excuse to take her out? Started the paperwork to get her legal, have a new wiring harness to get in and trying to come up with a cool different bed, that still looks appropriate.So far I'm thinking a narrow flatbed with a headache rack like an old lumber truck and stake sides that are at an angle back to about half bed?