Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
12 members (Otto Skorzeny, dt235sd, mason86, Bill Hanlon, MickeyP, 68ironhead, Greg_H, tclederman, Shade Baby, 3B, Charles in CA, 32Fordpuchoptop),
98
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,649 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Hello...I have a 64 Chevy with a 283 V8 four speed. I noticed this past weekend that there is a slow leak coming from the engine just above the front engine mount. Its coming from the engine block itself. There is calcification from the leak which you can see in the pictures. Once I turn off the engine, it takes about 10 minutes before the leak stops. Not sure where this leak could be coming from. It looks like the leak is coming from an indentation above and behind the engine mount. Any thoughts on what I should do about this would be appreciated. I attached some pics to help. thanks john http://s1133.beta.photobucket.com/user/johnnywaz212/library/64%20Chevy/engine%20leak
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | There's a core plug (also known as a "freeze" or "expansion" plug) behind the motor mount, which is the indentation you are seeing. Looks like it's leaking from the plug, possibly due to corrosion from age. You're gong to have to replace the plug to stop the leak.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | As LongBox says, it's the freeze plug. If you can block up the engine with a 2x4 under a sturdy part of maybe the front edge of pan, you can remove mount and poke hole gently in the freeze plug and twist and shout it out. Carefully tap a new one in there with a big socket that just fits inside it, till it's flush with block. You can coat the edge of it with gasket sealer if you wish, before hand. Maybe you know how to put in a freeze plug already? Didn't know.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Thanks Bill, Any thoughts on how involved this process is? I suspect it will involve removing valves and such to get to that part. Is this a part that my napa store would carry?
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | You should get a repair manual for your truck to help with these type items. I guess I was posting when you were answering Bill. See above. Dude, you need a new oil pan. NY must be awful on metal. Never seen a rusted pan like that in AZ. Drain the radiator before starting, but some will still flow out when old plug removed. Antifreeze is deadly for children or animals, of any kind ,to drink if you let it go into yard or gutter or not catch it all in a bucket. Dispose properly.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | bartamos has hit it right on the head on the procedure. Any parts store will have the plugs. For disposal of the old antifreeze, you can take it to any shop that does oil changes or radiator work, as well as many parts stores for recycling, they are required by the EPA to accept it at no charge. Whatever you do, don't dump it down the drain!
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 | Napa will have the part. Its common. It is one of those jobs that take very little technical skill and knowledge, just a pain in the [censored] to get to. And by the looks of the rust elsewhere you might encounter some stuck bolts here and there. Like the other guys said, start with draining the water system. You won't need to remove anything on the top end except maybe the exhaust manifold so you have working room. Jack and the block the truck as needed for working room, then you'll need a jack to support the engine while you disconnect the engine mount on that side. Now block the engine up to secure it, 2x4 or something similar under the engine between the frame. (the engine will tilt to the side a little and you should also disconnect the tranny mount so you don't tear it apart.) You should now be ready to pull the plug and it might be tight or it might come out easily because it is rotten. Just be careful not to gouge the block inside the hole. When you put it back in; clean the hole with a litte sandpaper to remove loose debris, but don't over do it. Definitely use some permatex or other thick sealer on the new plug. The sealer will also act as lube to allow easier install. A socket, as mentioned, that fits in the cup of the plug works great. A few firm and square raps and you should be back in business. Now reassemble the the mounts and anything else you removed, fill the radiator, warm it up and check your coolant level. Thanks Bill, Any thoughts on how involved this process is? I suspect it will involve removing valves and such to get to that part. Is this a part that my napa store would carry?
Last edited by hd4unm; 02/22/2013 7:31 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 | Johnny, exactly whats been said. In a C-10 the main crossmember runs right under the motor mount area and makes it a B%^&h to get to. You threw me off by saying C-10. According to your signature you have a K-10,hence more room to work. Not real easy but alot easier in a K series truck. ALSO, inspect the rubber mount for ANY mushiness/oil deterioration and if needed Replace it while you have it out. Thats the more important left side mount,and in foward motion the engine wants to torque up or lift on the left and push down on the right. And if the motor lifts far enough it grabs the gas pedal linkage with the spark plug stand off at the back of a V-8,pulling it to Full Throttle. Ask how I know!! regards, steve sr.
Last edited by steve sr; 02/22/2013 10:54 AM. Reason: spelling
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | They make expandable soft plugs that make this job much easier. eBay example
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 | I had a Ford van with a 300 6 cylinder with a bad freeze plug behind the motor mount. I was able to get the freeze plug out without too much difficulty and used an expandable soft plug. It was not difficult and worked great.
1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 | I had a Ford van with a 300 6 cylinder with a bad freeze plug behind the motor mount. I was able to get the freeze plug out without too much difficulty and used an expandable soft plug. It was not difficult and worked great. Just to help with you decision... I see nothing wrong with using the expandable plug like these guys suggested. Not good for show judging and points but for some reason I think you'll be fine for awhile. More time for beer though. Just measure the diameter of the hole before going to the parts house. They are going to ask and there is no year and model for this part - generic. This is what you'll be getting if you go this way. Has a rubber puck that goes in the hole. Picture credit to Bolter 'Daniel-Rose'. http://s995.beta.photobucket.com/user/hootschc/media/20thfeb2013truck001_zpsd3873d84.jpg.html
Last edited by hd4unm; 02/22/2013 7:54 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Thanks for all of the detail and instruction. I couldnt find anything specific in my shop manual on the plug..so you guys are tremendous. I appreciate everyone's feedback and insights. I hope to do this repair work soon. I'll need it to warm outside a bit since its been in the 30s degrees here in NY.
Anyone think I should be concerned about driving the truck until I get this fixed? I use her as a weekend driver. Thanks john
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 | Anyone think I should be concerned about driving the truck until I get this fixed? It is only going to get worse and not likely to turn into a gusher the way it is today where any fluid won't hold at all. Better keep an eye on your fluid level and drip activity. Then keep a jug of anti-freeze with you just in case it gets real bad while your cruisin'. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Should I be using a hardening or non hardening sealant?
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Its hard to reach the plug that is leaking because it is under the engine mount. Can i measure one of the other plugs....there is one at the front which is unobstructed? Does anyone know if they are the same size? Thanks John
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | If one plug has rotted through, I would consider pulling the engine and replacing all of them, since the rest of them are in about the same condition. They would also be easier to install properly if the engine was out of the truck, Scott
Last edited by 48bigtrucks; 02/24/2013 9:40 AM.
| | |
| |