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I need some education on 1953 216 Babbitt connecting rods. I've already done a search and learned a few things only to raise more questions. Situation is my crank mains and journals have been turned .10 because they were out of round. Do I need to have the connecting rods turned to accept non-Babbitt inserts or can I just use the inserts with turning the rods.

Thanks

You can use modern bearings on this set up, check with a machine shop. Or http://www.egge.com/

The crank must be turned then the insert bearings will be a size to match the crank.

If the crank has been turned, then the rods will have to have more babbit added to them then turned to fit the crank. Then you will have to make sure you add the correct shims to each rod to make the fit exact.

Another option is to machine the rod to accept inserts and then get the appropriate insert for the .010 under crank.

you need to get them machined. I would recommend EGGE, they are the cheapest, and they actually know what they are doing. If you take them to a local machine shop you will most likely get a blank stare or they will ruin them for you. (Ask how I know) Be sure you send them out with the actual bolts you will be using upon assembly, otherwise you will need to get them resized. I am telling you all this from bitter experience.

All good info, Brokenhead sorry for your bitter experience but thanks for the leasson learned. so if the journals are turned .010 and then the rods get turned .010 what size inserts do I buy?

I highly recommend Effingham Regrinding in Illinois.

http://effingham-regrinding.com/

the rods are turned to a standard size, and you chose the inserts that match the undersize you are grinding the crank to, just like modern engines. You are probably ok grinding the crank to .010 under specs and just getting .010 under inserts (thats why the call them "precision" inserts. Just make sure to give the shop the exact specs you want it ground to, as the mains are all different sizes, and most of the machine shops look at you like foghorn leghorns nephew when it comes to these engines. Also be sure to check the clearance upon assembly just like any other engine.

Fallen Heros Dad, My heart goes to you my friend!!

God Bless

With this rod conversion you end up with a modern bearing material. You shouldn't need shims on the rods after that.

Truckernix, are you saying no shims at all for the rods! Sweet

It's good to know about the Effingham shop. I live only 45 miles from there and didn't know about them. Thanks.

If you have the rods machine to accept inserts, then you will not need shims.

Oh yea, rods are going out today to be machined to accept inserts!!

I don't know if you are doing the mains as well, but on engines after '47, egge doesn't provide shims for the mains. I mean you could purposely have the shop grind the crank so it doesn't fit and make it so you have to use shims. The bores in the mains are held to a + or - .0005" tolerance, the crank journals likewise, I saw no reason to use shims or even where I would put them for that matter. Not to mention the shim kit the machinist that was butchering my block ordered on my tab got, was one set of shims of around .013" for each bearing cap, I never did figure how that was supposed to work. I know someone will say that you can adjust them for wear. All I know is if you had a 100,000 miles on one of these engines it was nigh on a miracle. Whereas today no engine manufactured has shims, and you get at least 200,000 miles, if not more. My last two cars the transmissions died at around 180,000 miles with the engines running strong. Just sayin...

Thanks Brokenhead, I'm having the crank and block turned as well. This is all good info on my first rebuild of any kind. I do have a very experience machanic helping, got to know your limitions.