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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,089 Posts1,056,141 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 23 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 23 | I have a 1952 Chevrolet 3800 truck with the 216 engine. While going thru and fixing broken, warn and missing items I noticed that one of the studs that fastens the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold was broken off at some time in the past and was only held on by the remaining single stud. I removed the nut from the good stud, dropped the exhaust and notice the other stud broken off flush with the manifold. It appears that an attempt was made to drill the stud to replace it. The hole looks like it was drilled out at an angle with some of the old stud still in the manifold. I am thinking of replacing the exhaust manifold. The manifold is in good shape, heat riser works freely etc. I noticed there seems to be more 235 manifolds than the 216's available. Are the 216 and 235 intake and exhaust manifolds interchangeable? And if they are, would the intake manifold need to be replace also? Thanks, Jim | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 206 | you guys jump in if im wrong, but i think a 216 intake will fit with a 235 exhaust on a 235 but i dont think the 235 will fit a 216 at all, you wouldalso need a new carb if using the 235 manifol as the bolt patterns are diffrent. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | The bolt spacing where the intake and exhaust bolt together is different between 216 and 235's. You can use the complete 235 manifold assembly, but as mentioned above the 235 carb has a wider bolt spacing. The 235 ports are also bigger where it bolts to the head so stepped alignment rings should be used or great care used in aligning the manifold.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Dave,
Am I correct in my understanding that 1949 and earlier 235 manifolds are compatible with all 216 manifolds?
Are the 235s you (and others above) are referring (above) the 1950 and later 235 manifolds?
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Tim, that is correct. It is just most people do not know about the 1941-49 235 so I did not bring it up.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 206 | the early 235 look like a 216 as well correct? ( studs in valve cover)
If i were you id just find a 216 manifold for 20 bucks of so. beats buying a 235 that dosent fit correct then needing a new carb, then having probs with richness ect ect.. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | If the manifold is in good shape and the heat riser works why not remove it from the engine and try to repair the exhaust flange.
Working on a bench you might be able to drill out the broken stud and re-tap it. Might have to go up a size if there is enough material on the flange.
Just a thought.
Good luck
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Should be an easy repair for just about any good muffler shop. also re. the 49 manifolds, have one on my 46 high torque motor only difference is that 49 exhaust flange doesn't point straight down but angled back. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 23 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 23 | Thanks for all the advise guys. I have found a few manifolds out on ebay, most of them have both manifolds and are asking for the most part over $100. Don't need that. One offering just the exhaust manifold was priced high also. My manifold is in great condition, no rust and the heat riser is in good working condition. Think I'll go with removing the manifold, remove the remaining part of the stud and try re-tapping the manifold. Makes for good training and I enjoy working on these stovebolts for sure. Thanks again. Jim | | |
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