The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Gdads51, 2 invisible), 333 guests, and 6 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,162
Posts1,057,068
Members48,463
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
W
Socket Breaker
Socket Breaker
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
Hi folks...

on my 65 c10 stepside, 8 ft bed...
I replaced the bulbs on the tag lights, and they were working fine.
Then a few days ago I noticed that the drivers side blinkers didn't want to blink with the engine off, with the nightime lights on. It would blink slowly, with the engine on and the nighttime lights on Hmn.
Then, last night one of the tail light bulbs wasn't working... and tonight I was buzzing around, I flicked on the driver's side blinker, and it blinked jsut fine... well, I stopped, left the engine on, and both tag light are out. I haven't pulled them yet to check if they are blown or not, but I just replaced them both not two weeks ago... very weird.

Also, anyone know the modern part numbers on the correct bulbs to use in the tag lights?

Any ideas on things to troubleshoot?

Thanks.

-W

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,233
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,233
First thing to do is get a good heavy ground wire from the frame (not the bed) to each light housing. This should take care of any more problems. Joe

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
W
Socket Breaker
Socket Breaker
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
Joe,

Where exactly on the light housing? You mean run a wire from each tag light housing, to separate points on the frame and screw it down somehow, right?

The lights burn, as soon as I install them... and stay burning for a good while, but they eventually burn out... . I wonder if maybe I am running a sissy bulb?

Does anyone know the modern number/brand for replacement tag lights?

-W

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 31
T
Member
Member
T Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 31
Try replacing the blinker fluid with synthetic. The new bulbs require it... :p :p


Thomas Mott
1949 GMC 250
1957 Dodge COE c-700
1959 Chris Craft 17' w/big journal 327 for more power
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
W
Socket Breaker
Socket Breaker
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
Cute T. Mott. Cute.

-W.

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 230
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 230
Get a battery post cleaning brush and use it to clean the sockets really , _really_ shiny clean then smear the inside of the soclet with black moly wheel bearing grease or metallic anti-sieze , this will ensure proper ground of the bulbs , then run a new wire from the mounting stud
of each lamp to the frame , scrape all the rust off where you attach it and use more grease or whatnot (NOT silicone dialectric!) to ensure good grounding .

The twin filament bulbs are P/N 1157 or 1034 , I forget the smaller tag light bulb , we use HD # 631's as they're vibration resistant but only big rigs use them , maybe tractors ? .

A # 532 flasher will speed up the rate of flash a bit .

Good luck !.


-Nate
There is no problem so difficult it cannot be overcome by generous application of brute force & ignorance
A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
Volkswagen Nate, you forgot to ad 99 % of the time at the top of your post.

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 30
W
Junior Member
Junior Member
W Offline
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 30
think twice before you put "metalic" eek or molly lube in the socket,plain ole bearing grease in a new or non oxidized socket will prevent corosion just fine. use good ground wire same 18 awg as power wire to bulb. clean connections are a must. makey/breaky connections can cause early bulb failure

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
W
Socket Breaker
Socket Breaker
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
I bought some Slyvania no. 67 bulbs, and thus far they are still burning. So I prolly had the wrong size... maybe... hopefully that is all it was. The Autozone supercomputer couldn't cross check the bulb I took out... and there's was soem made in china stuff anyway...

I went to advance auto parts and bought those sylvania's and things are good so far.

thanks for all of the tips folks!

things to keep in mind.

I love this page!

-W


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0