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#91298 12/09/2004 8:29 PM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | Last night when driving home, coasting to a stop sign, I lost electrical power and then the engine petered out. As I was coming to the stop I noticed the dash lights and headlights started fading. It took a couple seconds for everything to fade and then hear the engine cut out as opposed to when you kill the ignition and things shut off immediately. Once the engine had cut out, I still had VERY feint lighting but, there was no starting. Checked the belt and wiring to alternator and to voltage reg. Everything looked good. Stood and scratched head for a few minutes. Went back to cab to see if lighting still feint. Turned lights on. Back to full power. Started her up and drove home. Is this characteristic of an alternator going bad? I've never had one do this. My experience has been they just quit charging. -David Kustoms-and-Sleds | | |
#91299 12/09/2004 11:20 PM | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 687 | Check your postive and negative battery hook ups sounds as if one is loose or starting to get corroded. When Alt. goes usually battery will hold until it drains itself, hence weak lights and dash lights also the motor will start missing. Everything will go dead and no starting until battery is charged.
popcorn The Truth is Out There (Check the leads first) Ben | | |
#91300 12/10/2004 4:14 AM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | Ben, That makes sense about the alternator, that everything wouldn't immediately just die within seconds with a full battery. But, at the same time, if it were battery connects, wouldn't the alternator keep things running since the truck was already running? Won't an engine keep running if you disconnect one of the battery connects? At first I was thinking it wasn't the ignition switch since the lights and stuff gradually faded for a few seconds before everything shut down. Then today, hopped in to go to work and I got nothing when I turned the key. The gauges registered but that's it. I checked the battery with multimeter and had 14V. Left the ignition ON and used a screwdriver on the starter and she fired right up. Let it warm up and then shut it down. Tried key again and she started. Ignition switch problems? | | |
#91301 12/10/2004 3:56 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 328 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2003 Posts: 328 | I would say ignition switch or possibly a bad ground.
Never hold your farts in. They travel up your spine and into your brain...that is where crappy ideas come from.
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#91302 12/10/2004 8:25 PM | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 687 | Ok you are slowly eliminating things, go to you starter and check the leads, Still sounds to me a connection loose. popcorn The Truth is Out There (Better than me I got a screw loose)Ben | | |
#91303 12/10/2004 8:58 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 | Mugsy,
Did'nt you have a post a couple of weeks back about your wires to the lights being very small? Just wondering if the loose wire like popcorn says along with the small wires you have to the lights mean about your harness....I can't remember reading...did you do a new harness or this stock? Just wondering if a P/O left you a little wiring surprise under the dash or hood somewhere? Sounds like a 70's Duster I was thinking of buying...that had a bad main power wire...it would pull out of the fuse block once in awhile and kill the car.....
http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001345
I guess that post was not that far down the list... | | |
#91304 12/10/2004 11:04 PM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | Yes, I was inquiring about headlight relays and what not a couple weeks ago. Those issues got ironed out. My headlights are wired directly to battery. There was definitely some electrical issues when I bought the truck, mainly with lighting and signals and such but I got it all straightened out. The only one I couldn't ever figure out was the headlights so I got fed up and did 'em direct to battery. All the wiring harnesses are original.
Popcorn, I checked things at starter and all looks good. I'm guessing the ignition switch is original as the key matches the door lock. You can tell from the truck that previous owners wouldn't have gone the extra mile to match up if the ignition switch had gone bad. So, I'm still leaning towards that at this point. Since using the screwdriver on the starter yesterday afternoon, I've had no problems starting her with key nor anything dying. Maybe the old girl was just having an old truck moment the other night. -David | | |
#91305 12/10/2004 11:30 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The connector on the back of the ign. switch can get burnt & cause problems but I think it must be a feed wire somewhere being the lights went out too. Check all wires from the starter terms. to the fuse block . Check any fuseable links sometimes the wire burns out inside the insulation. There is a junction inside the harness under the hood where all the large gauge red wires hook together on some models. I,ve seen those get corroded & cause problems.  They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#91306 12/13/2004 4:22 AM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 230 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 230 | Silly , basic question : did you check the battery cables yet ? if the top of the battery is wet or dirty , remove it and wash with soap & water .
If the clamps on the battery are touching , they've been overtightened and are now junk ~ I dunno if they still make battery post shims ? .
Remember , K.I.S.S.
-Nate There is no problem so difficult it cannot be overcome by generous application of brute force & ignorance
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