The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Window Regulator Roller Replacement - '47 3100

Hi Folks,

I've done a search, but did not find what I'm looking for.

I've got window regulator replacement roller kits (CP 18-795). Removing the old shafts seems simple enough (drill out/off stake and push out). However, what is recommended procedure for staking the new shafts? Peening with a hammer? Press in a vise? Do I need a large radius tool for the stake?

Beyond that, can anyone provide some advice on pitfalls to avoid or how-to tricks?

Please advise and many thanks for the help.

Bill, is these what your using?
http://www.classicparts.com/1947-63-Window-Regulator-Rollers/productinfo/18-795/

If so here is MY experience with them so take it for what its worth.
When I put these new rollers in I found that when I ground off the back, and knocked the old ones out, that the hole that was left was to BIG for the new rollers stem. I then had "stems" specially made by a bolter friend to fit the hole in my regulator arm but still used the plastic rollers.

**what I should have done was grind the old stems flat and NOT punch them out. With them ground flat I could then center punch/mark the center and then drill a hole the size of the new ones I received...put the new ones in and then peened them a time or two to make sure they hold in place.
Hope all this makes sense?!

The current repops may now have the right diameter "stem" but I would not bet on it. If you have any questions maybe we could discuss it over some BBQ at Charlies or here at my shop. I have an extra one on hand.

New ones do fit pretty good. I did like you, grind the back then just wiggled out the remainder. I put the new one in, took a chisel and gently gave a whack to back side of the stem. Turned the chisel 90 degrees and gave another gentle whack. Everything seemed nice and tight. Time will tell!

MNSmith,
Thanks, I'm glad to hear they are now correct. I have s couple of the rollers with the wrong size stem in them and an old regulator I was going to repair for a spare rather than through it away. When I do this I will try to remember to show a picture of my delema back when I put mine in....probably 2 years ago.
Thanks again.

The original regulators did not use a roller, it was just a
stepped post the slid on the channel. One washer was inside the
channel and the other out side. The leather washers kept the
post in it's proper location in the channel, held the
lubrication and kept it from rattling.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/1950_doors&page=all
To set the new posts I used a ball bearing and a hydralic press.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/120007835
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

...Denny, well done and well said. I remember the leather washer discussion back when I did mine but for some reason I figured the plastic roller would be as good, maybe last a bit longer, than the leather. I'm happy with the rollers and my windows work great but it sure threw me when the repop stems were to small and I had already driven out the old studs.

..and a big thanks to you Denny for all the work you've done. I know a lot of bolters look at your work and I have certainly told my share of folks to check out your work to get answers.
Thank You.

I second that, Denny!!

I'll have to look for my old studs to see if they were the originals.

No one is reproducing the original style studs. The ones I show
in my album are ones that I made on a 6" Logan engine lathe I
had in the basement.

I looked into having a batch of true to original ones run off at
a local machine shop on a CNC turning center but the cost
to program it turned out to be to much for a short run. Besides
marketing them to recoupe the investment becomes a problem in
that we can't mention that we have them for sale in the most
popular forums like here, and the word gets lost in a day over
in the sparsely visited Swap Meet forum. I went thru that
exercise when I had a bunch of vinyl paint stencils made up for
the "Thrift Master" logos, still stuck with a bunch of those.

But if one is interested in having their windows roll up like
they did when the truck was new, an accurate reproduction of the
original parts can be made if you have access to a small bench
lathe. The dimensions for the posts and washers are posted in
my album.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Alvin, Denny, and MN,

Thank you for your help. I'm less intimidated by this project now.

Bill

Alvin

I got the same roller replacement kit from Classic. Before I jump into the deep end I want to confirm you are saying I need to grind off the "shiny" end cap of the current window roller. If I understand once I do that, I should leave the old sleeve in the regulator arm and insert the new wheel. Let me know if I am on the right path.

Window roller connection at regulator

Alvin

The replacement roller kit from Classic fit the hole in the regulator perfectly. The manufacturer must have figured this out and modified the part. Slipped right in and was pretty easy to crimp and peen over on the inside.

Replacement in regulator arm

New window roller side

...Bob, at least we can now say a vendor DID correct a mistake. Glad it worked smooth for you.

so does both rollers go inside channel or one outside one inside on the plastic rollers

The roller straddles the outside lip of the
rail.
Carl

thanks