The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Ed Atkisson, Otto Skorzeny, Gdads51), 40 guests, and 5 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,021
Posts1,055,372
Members48,420
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#896813 11/14/2012 9:57 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,951
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,951
Like most old truck beds, mine has a rusted out front panel lower flange. My panel is in pretty good shape except for the lower 3 inches.

Rusted out lower flange.

I am not an experienced body man. I know that I could buy a brand new header panel for about $100 plus shipping, but I have read many posts that say original panels are best.

I can't find a decent original panel at the salvage yard, so I came up with another idea. Tell me what you think of it.

The top of the panel is 4" tall and the top edge is about 1.5". I found a header panel at the salvage yard that I could use for a patch piece. So I was thinking I could cut off the top 4" of the donor panel (including some of the rolled top for a flange)and flip it over and use it as a patch piece to replace the lower 3.25" from my panel. It already has a flange, and if I cut it properly, it will exactly match the bad part I cut off.

Top 4" of the panel

The lower 3.25" can be cut off and replaced with the piece from the top of the donor panel after it is properly sized.

Lower section to be removed

Can you see my plan?




Last edited by Lugnutz; 11/15/2012 9:18 AM.
Lugnutz #896821 11/14/2012 10:12 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Jay, you amaze me with your crazy idea's but if its gonna be a good solid panel,you have the time, and it saves you money then why send your hard earned dollars to china.....go for it. Looks like a good breaking point to joint it all back up together.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Lugnutz #896874 11/15/2012 8:54 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
T
Ex Hall Monitor
Ex Hall Monitor
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
I don't see why it wouldn't work. Just be careful when welding so you don't put too much heat into it.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Lugnutz #896898 11/15/2012 11:12 AM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 277
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 277
Looks like more than a hundred dollars worth of trouble to me....why not ask the list if anyone has a rust free from panel to sell. I sold a rust free box ( minus the tailgate) for $100 earlier this year.

Just my 2 cents

Joe


1955 First Series 3100
mendonjo #896902 11/15/2012 11:32 AM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,951
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,951
Originally Posted by mendonjo
Looks like more than a hundred dollars worth of trouble to me....why not ask the list if anyone has a rust free from panel to sell. I sold a rust free box ( minus the tailgate) for $100 earlier this year.

Just my 2 cents

Joe

Joe,
I thought about how much work would be involved and that my time is worth something too. The patch panel will be at least $10 plus welding gas and supplies additional. It might not be worth the trouble. It's not gonna be a show truck because I don't have the skill or money to do that level work.

That's a pretty long section of weld to save an old fairly beat up panel. I'm having second thoughts.

Lugnutz #896933 11/15/2012 4:28 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,780
G
Master Gabster
Master Gabster
G Offline
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,780
Have you looked at 1954-1987 beds for parts?

Made in USA

Lugnutz #898031 11/20/2012 2:16 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 277
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 277
That is a good point GMONIZ brought up. The front bed panel is the same from 1954 thru 1987. Maybe a junkyard?


1955 First Series 3100
mendonjo #898050 11/20/2012 4:30 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,951
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,951
Originally Posted by mendonjo
That is a good point GMONIZ brought up. The front bed panel is the same from 1954 thru 1987. Maybe a junkyard?

Although tomorrow may bring the right part to the my local salvage yard, it's been a year and no decent panels have shown up. I found a new panel in the Truck Shop of Orange, CA page 117 for $80. I think that will be my choice once the time comes to rebuild the bed. Of course if something comes my way sooner, I can always be persuaded to get a decent salvage panel.

Link for Stepside front bed panel.

The bed panel I have might end up as patch panel for fenders, etc.

Lugnutz #908451 01/03/2013 7:31 PM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 2
B
New Guy
New Guy
B Offline
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 2
I had the typical bed front panel issue you describe where the wood held moisture rusting out the bottom flange. To fix it I bought a piece of 16 ga sheet metal and a section of angle iron as replacements. I cut out the center section that was peppered with dents and the rusted bottom flange. I left the top edge and sides to maintain the correct dimensions. Then I "plug" welded the sheet metal to the top/sides sections and ran a continuous bead along the angle iron bottom (in 1" welds jumping end-to-end to minimize heat/warping). Total cost was approximately $16.

http://s1273.beta.photobucket.com/u...mp;_suid=1357257070014043406740778914265

Last edited by Booner; 01/03/2013 10:26 PM.
Lugnutz #913144 01/20/2013 2:08 PM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,438
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,438
I just cut the bottom inch or so off straight across. My panel had wood installed, which rotted out. I cut a piece of 3/4 furniture grade plywood and replaced the rotted stuff. I thought about replacing the cut off portion, but it doesnt really do much down there, except rust.


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!

Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0