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First off, I got my flame suit on...

I really want to build a lifted 47-57 Chevy truck. Anywhere from 6" to 10". FInding one that is done has proven to be quite the challenge. After having the exact one I wanted sold out from underneath me, Im looking into building my own project.

I know around these forums most people aren't into this kind of truck, but I figured I'd try my luck asking a couple questions about what frame swap would be best. The main reason I would want a modern frame is for the availibility of suspension kits.

The main question I have, how difficult would it be to put an AD truck body on a 1979 F150 short bed chassis? The wheel base is 117". I've got a lead on a nice lifted '79 F150. All "morals" of putting a chevy body on a ford frame, I know trust me, Would it be do-able?

The reason I'd like to go this route is because I could drive this Ford until I find a nice body for it.

Thanks for any advice, please don't come to my house and murder me in my sleep
-Ryan

I think most people use s-10's, but im sure you could do it with the ford, with enough time and a welder.

I say its your pickup do what you want with it. I for one would like to see pics of the build.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/cto/3318139783.html
This is the ford I would consider using as a start.

[IMG]http://i50.tinypic.com/21nodop.jpg[/IMG]
This is the '51 chevy I almost got my hands on Which is my final goal.

That thing's ugly enough to make a freight train take a dirt road! Have fun!
Jerry

That FROD has been used and abused. Spend $3k on that and you will spend every penny you can scrape up to keep it going.

If you really want to do it get a starter truck that has not been mudded and do it yourself. I made that mistake with my donor frame and running gears but I only paid $700 for it. Once I find new axles, I will have replaced it all but the transmission.

I'm going to have to agree 100% on this. Seeing that the Ford has already been liftedn plus has had way oversized tires for the axles under it, on top of the pix showing it's been ran hard, you could very well end up getting someone elses headache. A better route might be to check out how the Napco trucks were put together, and replicate that using modern axles and drivetrain components on the stock frame. doing it that way will ensure that the body fits right, and you'll end up with a much better integrated rig overall. If you're planning on big tires and any sort of serious off roading, consider no less than full floating 3/4 ton axles, or better yet, 1 ton axles (Dana 60 F/Corp 14 bolt R). 1/2 ton axles and brakes are just way undersize for the job. For the T-case, the NP205 is hard to beat, unless you do the NP205 with the NP203 range case for extra low range or perhaps the Atlas (big $$$$).

i like it. Your truck make it unique.

I'm not sure on the dimensions of the F-150 frame, your best route would be to examine it thoroughly with a taper measure and compare to the dimensions of the body you're wanting to put on it. The wheelbase is the right length, but having no experience with F-150 swaps I can't comment more.

The reason most people use S-10's is because of the track width (and it's a strong frame). A chevy full size might work best for your idea, depending on the track width you want to end up with, but chances are you would have to shorten the frame to get the right wheelbase.

Keep in mind that if you're doing a frame swap you can put the body as high off the frame as you want, which could reduce the amount of suspension lift you need.

I agree with you, I would have to get it dirt cheap to make it worth it. I was really hoping to get my Miata out of the midwest winter lol


I have been talking to a guy selling a 1956 Chevy frame with dana 44/60 axles.(unfortunately not a NAPCO) Its got custom spring mounts that give it a 6 inch lift. Which is perfect because its not too crazy. My only problem is that then I would have to find a complete 56 body/bed/modern driveline to transfer over. He wants $600, I could probably get him down from there though.

Would any '55 '56 or '57 body fit onto a 56 frame, or were there some differences besides the grilles?
Also, it can't be too impossible to get a small block chevy in there, right? This is probably the route I want to go with if I can't find one already on a late model 4x4 frame.

Thanks so much for the input guys

'55 2nd through '59 are esentially the same as far as body mounting and frames. The '55-'57 are identical, '58/59 are about 2" longer at the front due to the sheetmetal differences. A smallblock will fit just fine in the '56 chassis, as it was an option on them.

I parked next to a guy at a carshow, who had a '46 or 47 International that had at one time been converted into a mud-bogger. They used an older ( full size ) blazer setup that seemed to fit the cab and box OK, except with the bigger tires, they stuck out beyond the fenders about 4" either side. Not my " cup of tea ", but to each his own.

I think that bolt is awesome ! Not sure about the ford after all it is a ford. Think I would find a 3/4 or 1 ton Chevy with a big block and shorten the frame to fit. A 350 cant light up those tires.

A Ford under a Chevy, now that's a different combo.

Some people like them Low & some like them up High!

If you do some research you may find a frame you won't need to cut. AD truck,suburban,panel wheelbase is 115" / Fullsize shortbed Chevy 4x4, 70s-80s wheelbase is 117". An ORD shackleflip can help relocate the rearend to the wheel opening. extra width may not be an issue on a lifted truck.

You can also pick up the donor in pieces. We bought our frame for $50 on CL.

Don't be suprised if it takes a lot longer to build than you think. good luck with your project.

I can give you some advice on the 55-57 trucks. The easiest way to make a 4x4 is to buy a NAPCO front axle and the rear anvil lift blocks. Then have some custom springs arched to your liking, bolt em up to the stock 2 wheel drive Chevy frame. drop in your engine, tranny, t-case, get some custom drive shafts and your done. You will have a strong setup and it will look factory.

Or

If you don't mind the tires hanging out of the fenders, which after looking at that truck you want it is clear you don't care, you can use a 70's Blazer frame and running gear. Weld up some custom body mounts and away you go. Good thing about this set up is that you have a lot of suspension options and disk brakes. You could have the axles shortened to fit under the fender too.

Good luck.

Here are some pictures the guy sent me of his 1956 frame. Has a 6" lift. He said he thinks the axles are dana 60 and dana 44.
[IMG]http://i46.tinypic.com/33az7n6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i46.tinypic.com/mww0pj.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i47.tinypic.com/bedh1u.jpg[/IMG]

The cab isn't included in the sale.

The rear is a full float GM 14 bolt, the front is a Dana 44.

If you are using a modern chevy drivetrain, you might be well served with a Ford chassis. The reason for this is that the transfer case on an NV3500 or NV4500 has a driver's side front output for the front driveshaft. The front axle on a ford has the differential on the driver's side. I used a '79 F250 axle under the front end of my '50 for that reason. I had to fabricate mounts for the springs as the spring perches on the axle are cast into the differential. If I had it to do over again, I think using a whole frame for the swap would have been easier than fabbing up the mounts for the axle. "Just" hang the cab over the frame and build mounts to hold it.

I say, "Good luck and have fun with it!"

Craig