The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts starting engine after long time

a week ago I purchased a 1954 6400 5-window flatbed with dump and had it towed to the house and parked under the carport. I cleaned/vacuumed the inside, did a light pressure wash, and partially scraped the underneath (about 5 gallons of grease and dirt). The mud and dirt seemed to preserve areas and now I can see some red paint and green paint on the oil pan.

My question is how to properly start the engine. I think it is a 261, but not sure yet--it has captains bar above starter but I will check numbers. So, if the engine has not been started for a long time, do I need to get oil to the cylinders somehow first? should I do a tune up first? should I drain the old gas? note the valve cover was partially blown off when it was last started and is slightly bent up.

It has been years since I even changed the oil in my car and I expect to be slow at this project, but very excited to have a such a machine.

Louis
Sounds like someone got silly funny and Real fresh with a can of start fluid/ether.
1ST Pull the plugs.
2nd Definately squirt 5 or 6 shots of Kroil(my fave) or marvel mystery oil or any rust buster that you have into the cylinders.
3rd turn the engine over at the flywheel by using a BIG screwdriver/prybar.
4th after you close the shut off valve on the bottom of the tank,disconnect the rubber fuel line between the right side frame rail and the fuel pump,(that reduces the chance of schkevitz from the tank/steel line and 2 rubber hoses from gettin to the carby)
Get a piece of new rubber fuel line,you are gonna need it anyway,to go on the fuel pump inlet and long enough to go into a 1-2-5 gal gas can or whats handy.
Put a Hot battery to her and give it shot!
Might have missed sumthin and I,m sure I,ll get scolded,
regards
steve sr.

Take the valve cover off and spray the valve stems with some penetrating oil. When you turn the motor by hand watch and see of the valves are going up and down and not sticking. Take your time. Might be a good idea to oil the cylinders and valve stems a few times.

One of the big problems with waking up a stovebolt engine after a long sleep is sticky valves. Sometimes it doesn't happen right away, but after a little running time. Gummy deposits will sieze up a valve stem and cause bent pushrods, or sometimes contact between the intake valves and the pistons. Spend a lot of time getting the valves freed up, with plenty of penetrating oil on the valve springs and stems, and give the first few gallons of gas you run through the engine a heavy dose of Sea Foam, an upper-cylinder lubricant that mixes with the gas.

For the cylinders, pour a couple of ounces of Kroil into each spark plug hole, and let it sit for a week or so. Then drain it out of the oil pan and pour it through again. Kroil will actually penetrate through rust, and end up in the pan.

www.kanolabs.com

No, I don't work for the company- - - -I've just used their products for 40 years! Kroil is the best penetrating oil on the market- - - -hands down!

Once the engine is turning freely and the fuel system is clean, install fresh spark plugs, new points and condenser, set the timing, and fire it up!
Jerry

schkevitz or schvitz or sweat?

Excellent advice above.

I'd add all the items you would need for a tune-up. Have them on hand, and use them as needed. Once you get it started, do the tune-up.

ignition wires
points
condenser
distributor cap
plugs

oil
oil filter
fuel filter

Beware of the gas tank and fuel lines
empty the fuel

Drain the tank, if it has a bottom drain.
Luckily, the 54 fuel "pick up" line draws out the top of the tanks, but there might be (will be?) all sorts of schkevitz in the tank?
Then disconnect the line outlet line on the fuel pump and pump clean fuel through the lines into a container. Make sure the fuel contains no debris.

You most likely have a 261. Post casting codes from the block/head and people will help confirm the size/year.

Good Luck

wow, thanks so much for taking the time to help me out. I will follow the advise between work and other chores. I still need to do further cleaning to get to the cast number.

Was going to ask the same question, thanks Louis.
Already took out plugs and squirted WD-40 (only thing I had) in the cyls. Will pick up some Kroil tomorrow. The truck set out without a gas cap so a temporary tank will be in order. I got the cap off the master cyl. after partially destroying it. Put brake fluid in and found a broken line under the front of the motor. Couldn't get the line apart, will have to wait until another day. Got the seats out today, was like a puzzle until I got the right piece out. Truck has a spin on oil filter looks like an afterthought .. doesn't have any number on it. Have to look for engine tag? Thanks for the help.

http://s1325.photobucket.com/albums/u631/MAX1VET/

How big are the lines going to that filter? Unless you've got a late-model 261 with the full flow filter setup, be sure there's a flow restrictor somewhere in the filter system. The full-flow setup uses 1/2" pipe fittings and big flex lines from the engine to the filter and back. Running a full flow filter plumbed like a bypass system without a restrictor orfice will starve the bearings for oil.
Jerry

The lines don't look that big, seems like one came off of where the sending unit is the other one about mid engine. The filter base is U-bolted to the intake manifold. One of the pictures shows the filter location. I'll get some more pics and info.

http://s1325.photobucket.com/albums/u631/MAX1VET/

Yes, I saw the picture- - - -that's why I asked. The original canister-type bypass filter has a 1/16" hole in the return tube that restricts the oil flow through the filter element before it returns directly to the oil pan. If a regular spin-on filter is substituted for the cansiter without restricting the flow, far too much oil gets bled away from the main and rod bearings, and the oil pressure will be extremely low. A spin-on filter is convenient, but unless one with a very tight-weave element is used, its filter media will be way too open to provide good bypass filtering.
Jerry

MAX1VET,

Here are locations of codes.

The 261 was standard on 6500s in 1954/55-1st, but the engine might have been changed over the years.

All sorts of odd and interesting and laughable things were done on/to these engines over the years.

It was mentioned to drain the gas tank. I would echo that and also add to clean it out good, or replace it if you can't. Running any of that old crap into your engine will result in the sticky valves that HRL mentioned. Also it could screw up your carburetor.
Don't ask me how I know this!

Tim;
Finally found the numbers:Block Date Casting code = CON 4 A149, No Serial Number present, haven't found Block Casting code, Head under valve cover CON 9 E154, Head Right side B59 then 848 over 850.
Jim

Jim,

You'll need the head casting code and the block casting code in order to confirm if it is a 235 or a 261.

A149 = block date casting code
Jan 14 1959

E154 = head date casting code
May 15 1954

If my interpretation of the date codes are correct, and the holes in the block for the oil lines are smaller than 1/2" NPT, then the block is a 235 block.

Let's see if someone else corrects or confirms my interpretations.

Found the head casting number, 3836850. The only other number on the block was in front of the fuel pump, and it's maybe 3133850. It's down where these old eyes don't focus. I took pictures but again it's down in amongst everything. Also, the carburator: Rochester, under choke shaft "RP Rochester GM made in USA pat. xxxxx. On base #7005606. Pictures I see of other fellows trucks the carbs are different. Also, more pics of oil filter. It's an M&W Gear Turbo filter and there isn't a number.

http://s1325.photobucket.com/albums...iew&current=DSCF2312_zpsc9ccd0ad.jpg

ok, although I have been embarrassingly slow, I have changed the battery, cables, cleaned fittings, oil, plugs, points, condenser, cap, wires, sprayed Kroil several times, drained/filled radiator, cleaned fuel tank, new side and valve cover gaskets.

now, I am trying to start. Starter working great and getting fuel to the carburetor. note: I have the air cleaner off and the fuel is partially pumping over the carburetor. There does not appear to be life yet.

next, I should probably check for spark-right? should I also check for top-dead-center on No. 1 cylinder? How long is it ok to let the starter crank each time? what else should I be trying?

thank you.
Louis