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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 60 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 60 | I am new at this so can someone please help me? I have a 49 chevy truck with a 54 engine and the original transmission and rear end. I want to leave the truck somewhat stock, so I am looking at a 64 chevy c10 rear end. Does anyone know if it will bolt up and clear. Is there anything else I should look for???,,,This rear end is for sale for $100. That is why I am looking at it.
Thanks!!!!
Bill M
Last edited by billm; 08/13/2012 8:45 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | I think that you can just use the pumkin or third member and keep the the housing and axles on your 49,if you want to. I know the 62 third member will bolt in and I think the 64 will also. Someone else will probably chime in and tell you for sure. I just changed the third member out on my 1949 and it wasn't hard to do at all. Good luck on your 49. Either way you'll have to get a new drive shaft and be sure and set the pinion angle. Also you'll have to get another trans. or get a another rear open drive part for your transmission. From 1955 through 1962 I know will interchange and I think the 1964 will too. Lot less work plus you get a better ratio. Your's is probably a 4:11 ratio. Steven | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | The '64 rear will be the right width for your '49. You'll have to do some cutting, grinding and welding to install spring perches for it to bolt up to your truck. '62 was the last year for the 1/2 ton with the Eaton drop out third member. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | 1964 is not a dropout style. 1955-62 1/2 tons are the only dropout center sections that will fit in the 1940-54 torque tube axle housing to replace the torque tube. One thing to think about is your 49 has Huck brakes, the 64 has Bendix. Putting better brakes on the back without upgrading the front can be a dangerous proposition. You should at least swap the front over to Bendix at the same time or install an adjustable proportion valve on the rear. You do not want the rear to pass up the front, on a panic stop, which will happen when the rear locks up first.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | Good point. I didn't think of that. I don't have that problem. I just changed out the chunck. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 | Consider also the width over the mounting surfaces. I believe the '64 rear end has gained about 1 1/2" over your '49, but someone here will know for sure.
Les | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | Consider also the width over the mounting surfaces. I believe the '64 rear end has gained about 1 1/2" over your '49, but someone here will know for sure.
Les I've got several '63 to '69 1/2 ton truck 12 bolts and they are very close (within fractions of an inch) to the width of an Advance Design truck, which is about 62". | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | I told you someone would take up my slack. I wasn't sure about the 64 but was right on the 55-62. If you get a good pumpkin the job is super easy. Onr thing I forgot to tell you. When you take the enclosed shaft out you want to be careful because the housing will rotate to the "ground" because it has nothing to keep it from doing so. Mine did and all I did to correct it was install the "new" pumkin in the housing and jack up under the new rear third member under where the drive shaft will bolt up.Set it (rear end) to the proper angle and weld the rear support at the springs. I hope this helps. Steven | | |
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