| |
Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
Plenty of places to share. | | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,006 Posts1,055,268 Members48,418 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 82 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2005 Posts: 82 | So here's the story: I have a'49 3100 that I am trying to convert to power brakes. I installed a braket kit from CPP with the recomended Mustang master cylinder & booster. I also installed the 1/2 " extension to the pedal linkage. I am using the stock pedal with the under cab mounting along with the stock 11" drums front & rear. I did install a 10 # check valve in the m/c since the m/c is for a disc / drum combo. Now the problem. The pedal goes down about 4" before the brakes engage. Ive got the brakes adjusted to a slight drag, the system has been vaccume bled etc. I'm at a loss to solve this problem. Any ideas ???? Thanks.
1949 chev 3100 3 window. 350hp/327/m21 4 spd, 12 bolt rear, power brakes, 3" dropped axle from Sid's. Disc brakes next.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | Did you adjust the length of the rod that exits the booster and pushes the piston on the M/C? Too short and you have your problem. Too long and your brakes wiil drag. I believe the correct gap is around 1/8". There is a handy tool to set the gap. It looks like a "H" with a rod running thru the crossbar. You didn't say, but did you install 2lb. valve in the front brake line? Edit, Apache Fiend: I missed the drum/drum combo. If so, forget the 2lb. valve.
Last edited by beltfed; 08/12/2012 8:52 AM.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 177 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 177 | adjust the rod from the pedal to the power booster. i had to turn mine out about 1/2" to get a good pedal off the floor | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 | What Mustang MC and booster did CPP recommend?
regards, Leon | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 547 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 547 | If I understood your post correctly, you are using a disc/drum MC with a vehicle that has drums front and rear.
If I'm not mistaken that isn't going to work. You need a drum/drum MC.
58' 3200 235 3-speed/OD
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 | I'm working on a 57 3100 and have a similar problem. I'm using the CPP 5559MCA bracket and a 69 C10 drum/drum M/C (#1329). Mine is a non-boosted setup. It seems like the pushrod that CPP supplied isn't long enough. I haven't done a trial fit in the truck yet, but it looks like about 4" of slack, same as the OP.
regards, Leon | | |
| |
| |