The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Lessons Learned/Tips for a Rochester Carb Rebuild

I have a 58 Suburban with a late 60's 250 in it. I validated the casting numbers in this forum (huge help I must say). I ran the numbers on the side of the carb and came up with a Rochester 1ME. I ordered a rebuild kit and replacement float from Mikes Carb Shop and it came within a couple of days.

Here's my issue. I never even taken a carb off an engine in the past more less tried to rebuild one. I'm pretty handy around the garage and I'm not afraid to tackle to project. What I'm looking for are lessons learned (the hard or easy way) and/or tips for the rebuild. I downloaded a repair manual from the Carb Shop website so I'll have that, but manuals don't always tell the whole story or the best way to do something.

Don't just limit comments to the rebuild on the workbench. Any hints on the disconnect and removal would be great too. Stuff like "don't forget to do xyz so that you don't drop a nut or bolt down into the engine when taking the carb off." Or "remember to have a drain can handy so you don't dump a quart of fuel on the garage floor." Etc Etc.

I'm having trouble starting the engine. It seems to be very temperamental if you step on the gas while trying to start it. Once it is running it purrs like a kitten but bogs down bad when you step on the gas. Once warmed up its better but still rough under acceleration. The carb does show signs of leakage around the caskets and around the base where it connects to the manifold. I figure a rebuild might be low hanging fruit and a good first step. Any other thoughts on improving start up and acceleration would also be appreciated.

I just moved into the Kansas City area and am real excited about the reunion in September. Hopefully I'll see some of you there.
Thanks!!

Take it apart in a pan with sides so little pieces don't skitter off to who knows where. Hospital bath pans work good if you are lucky enough to have one.

I had somewhat similar symptoms. I rebuilt the carb, that did not fix the problem. Then I replaced the fuel pump, that did not fix the problem. It ended up being a problem with the points and condensor.

I found videos on youtube that went through the carb rebuild step by step, so you might try searching for videos for your carb.

One tip (for this and just about any project)...take pictures. Take pictures of the carb on the motor from each side. For each linkage that you end up disconnecting, take a picture before disconnecting. The pictures will help when you realize that parts seem to be able to put back on multiple ways (which side is up, which side faces in or out, etc.). That was most helpful to me. The joy of digital cameras (or even just cell phone pictures) is that the pictures are free. You can't take too many.

Have a clean workspace I like the pan idea, but I mean bigger than that. Have all the tools you think you will need close at hand.

Cover that with white or brown paper and tape/tack/pin it down so it doesn't roll up on you. NO newspaper . . . you can't see small parts on bad news about the economy!

Put screen wire in the basket that comes in the gallon of carb cleaner so the tiniest parts won't slip through. Get a spray can of carb cleaner too! Its really good for small passages.

I like the old style paper egg cartons for putting parts into.
DO NOT USE the plastic kind . . . even a drop of gas will eat them immediately. Label the parts you remove in some sensible way
you understand.

Go step-by-step and take your time. Try to remember the sequences things are done. Don't get rattled if you get stuck. Reread and rewatch your videos and paperwork. Plus you can ask here!

There is a first time for everyone. I know you can do it!

best wishes,

Les

They are pretty easy to rebuild. Makw sure you use the right gasket for the throttle body to the fuel bowl & turned the right way. Usually 2 dif. ones come with the kit. When you put the link from the throttle shaft to the metering rod holder make sure it is going to stay in. Sometimes you have to bend it in a little to make sure. The real late models had a lug cast into the body that holds it in. Adjust the float level & the metering rod adj. like in the inst. sheet. If you need any help let me know. I am in the K.C. area. I'll see you at the show?reunion. Its a great show.
George

I have rebuilt a bunch of the Mono-jets, they are a pretty simple carb, with few moving parts.

Be careful with the fuel line taking it off, hold the large nut in the carb with a 1" wrench. The fuel lines can be pretty tight and you don't want to strip the carb housing.

Use a dip type or spray cleaner, your choice, just be sure to go through each hole with fine copper wire or compressed air.

The only real trick is holding the accelerator shaft and metering rod shaft when going back together. The little "S" linkage can give you fits sometimes.

Set each adjustment just as the paper indicates, if there is a choice or question on which float level to use, lean towards the high side if this is a hotrod. Idle screw should be two turns out from the seat, don't force it closed, just a light seat, then back out.

Be sure you hit the center of the jet when installing the metering rod, it's easy to miss. The little spring on top of the metering rod will be above the holder rod/linkage. Take your time and set this adjustment right.

Never force anything! ever!

Clean each threaded hole and use light machine oil on the threads. Ream out the top where the screws go through if the holes are smashed in, the screws should fall right into place.

Clean everything, twice if you are not sure.

I am in Lee's Summit, just outside of KC if you run into trouble.

Joe

Gentlemen;

Thanks for all of the great tips!! I like the idea of taking pictures and video. I probably would have forgotten that and then regretted it during the reassembly. I think I'll tackle this over the weekend.

George and Joe:

I was hoping to connect with some experienced bolters in the area. I will definitely contact you if I get stuck.

Success!!! It took me two afternoons to pull off, but I successfully took it apart, cleaned it and and put it back together again. Once I put it back on my Burb I had to crank it a little bit to draw up the fuel. After that is started right up and ran great. There is still a slight bog in acceleration especially when cold, but it runs much better now. I still have some adjusting on the curb idle, high idle and electric choke to do. I re-read the rebuild manual I pulled off line and I think I can straighten it out tomorrow. The engine tends to idle really high and doesn't want to come back down to normal idle.

Anyway, I'm pretty psyched. I was afraid it wouldn't do anything once I got it back together.

See the photo of my "workbench" http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s461/biglarry3/b3c459c6.jpg Turns out the ping pong table that was collecting dust in the garage was good for something. You can see the Burb waiting patiently in the garage in the background.

Way to go Larry!